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LS1 and yota clutch

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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LS1 and yota clutch

Post by crankycruiser »

I jsut put a brand new genuine toyota clutch (supposedly HD) in my 4.5 80 and was wondering if it wil stand up to the Gen3.. once tuned should be around 300FWKW...

or should i get sumthing a bit better????
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Post by TheBigBoy »

Bigger. You'll need a 12" heavy duty button clutch from mark's. And also a new fly wheel. As the gen 3 ones have been buckling. Marks have made a thicker 2 peice fly wheel.

$990 for the clutch
$450 for the fly wheel.

Otherwise you'll be replacing clutches all the time. I just did my chev 11" clutch again.
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Post by crankycruiser »

Ahh k kool.. well aleady got the flywheel with the rest of my stuff.. just better sort a clutch out!
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Post by Rampage »

are ya realling going to gain much form the gen 3, seriously mate stick stick with that old beast 4.5
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Post by Shadow »

Rampage wrote:are ya realling going to gain much form the gen 3, seriously mate stick stick with that old beast 4.5
he will gain a hell of a lot actually.
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Post by Kingston_99 »

Shadow wrote:
Rampage wrote:are ya realling going to gain much form the gen 3, seriously mate stick stick with that old beast 4.5
he will gain a hell of a lot actually.
+1 one with that, will blow any 4.5
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Post by crankycruiser »

Rampage wrote:are ya realling going to gain much form the gen 3, seriously mate stick stick with that old beast 4.5
Yer i guess u are right mate!!

id better buy a Patrol 4.2TD........... U know where i can get one? lol
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Post by Rampage »

dam you..... yeah real nice one... looks nice anyway
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Post by jsttry »

300fwkw should be easy as you can get that with just a basic tune and no change to internals.

or do you mean all wheel kw? :)
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Post by TheBigBoy »

I thought you had fwkw = fly wheel kw. Otherwise id hate to be the 1 to burst your bubble. But you wont get 300rwkw from your gen3 with standard internals. Its 220 fly wheel kw from a normal 1. Unless its a clubby with race pistons etc (not standard internals)... 300 fly wheel kw. Convert that to your tyres.

300 fly wheel kw to hp = 402 fly wheel hp
402 x 0.84, - 10hp = 327 rear wheel hp
Convert that back to kw = 243 rear wheel kw from a 300kw engine.

Your maffless computer tune and exhaust will bring that up by a little bit (about 260kw). But you wont get 300 rwkw from a stock gen3.
And 220rwkw from a 220kw engine.
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Post by Shadow »

TheBigBoy wrote:I thought you had fwkw = fly wheel kw. Otherwise id hate to be the 1 to burst your bubble. But you wont get 300rwkw from your gen3 with standard internals. Its 220 fly wheel kw from a normal 1. Unless its a clubby with race pistons etc (not standard internals)... 300 fly wheel kw. Convert that to your tyres.

300 fly wheel kw to hp = 402 fly wheel hp
402 x 0.84, - 10hp = 327 rear wheel hp
Convert that back to kw = 243 rear wheel kw from a 300kw engine.

Your maffless computer tune and exhaust will bring that up by a little bit (about 260kw). But you wont get 300 rwkw from a stock gen3.
And 220rwkw from a 220kw engine.
]

He said fly wheel killowasps.

Why did you convert it to horsepower then back to killowasps?
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Post by TheBigBoy »

Because that formula is only for working out hp. From fly - wheels or visa versa on 4x4's.
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Post by Shadow »

TheBigBoy wrote:Because that formula is only for working out hp. From fly - wheels or visa versa on 4x4's.
the ratio works irrelevant of what unit is used.

as for the -10hp, never heard that part before, and as the ratio is purely an estimate, i hardly think the -10hp is significant?
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Post by TheBigBoy »

It is significant. After heaps of searching on the net. I came across that formula for 4x4's from the states and it has worked out perfectly on the last 10 4bies Ive used it on, knowing what hp/kw they produce at the fly. So its the closest thing ive got for cruiser and patrol.
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Post by Auto-Craft »

with good exhaust and a good tune, mafless, 260 rwkw will pull it up.

Change the cam will help.

If you use a 4terrain hdj80 12" clutch, and have the ls1 flywheel drilled to suit the pressure plate, it will be all you need.

Dont use exxeddy, or valeo.

If you think you need more [not with gen 3 you wont] Centreforce make a 12" unit for the 572 c.i crate engines, only one part No, it is the unit to use.

Forget button clutch, they suck, and last decades technology.
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Post by TheBigBoy »

Yeah, Whats does Mark's know? They only import/make all these kits.

You have to run a 12" clutch for the power. Im running an 11" and its not good enough for max power. And the ls1 flywheels DO buckle and their has been alot come back.

Just use whats recommended and proven cranky.

ps. With a cam and heads package you can get 335rwkw
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Post by Shadow »

TheBigBoy wrote:It is significant. After heaps of searching on the net. I came across that formula for 4x4's from the states and it has worked out perfectly on the last 10 4bies Ive used it on, knowing what hp/kw they produce at the fly. So its the closest thing ive got for cruiser and patrol.
Its worked out perfectly?

I think your full of shit given that EVERY drivetrain will have a different relationship of flywheel to rear wheel.

To claim your formula is accurate to 10hp is just plain stupid.
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Post by jsttry »

Where has cranky said its a stock LS1? Head/Cam will get you over 300rwkw with otherwise stock internals. Heck, throw a turbo on the side and 400rwkw+ is possible with stock cam and everything else :)
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Post by TheBigBoy »

:roll: So far with ls1 in patrols and cruisers.
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Post by crankycruiser »

lol well theres always one wanker aye


its a clubby motor running a maffless tune..... so 300 FLYWHEEL kw.. why do ppl always jump to conclusions !!!!!!!

love this place......................
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Post by MUD000 »

You love upsetting people Ray :armsup:
We knew what you ment
Not long now to you put it in
Cheers Dan
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Post by TheBigBoy »

Are you calling me a wanker?
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Post by Jacked »

my brothers monaro is at 310 rwkw with a cam, heads, valve springs, throttle body and over the radiator air intake. would be alot less in a 4by due to driveline losses.
i wouldnt call that engine 4by friendly it makes most of its power up high.

i know exedy are doing a sports organic clutch kit that comes with a larger flywheel for about 950 to suit a commodore. Apparently alot tougher then there button clutches according to my clutch guy (exeddy peddler) had no problems behind a twin turbo 6L
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Post by Auto-Craft »

crankycruiser wrote:lol well theres always one wanker aye


its a clubby motor running a maffless tune..... so 300 FLYWHEEL kw.. why do ppl always jump to conclusions !!!!!!!

love this place......................

so you used a four wheel kilowatt acronym, for flywheel kw.......


Ever noticed when you put your hand out and point the finger at others, there are 3 pointing back at you ?
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Post by turbogu »

TheBigBoy wrote:Yeah, Whats does Mark's know? They only import/make all these kits.

You have to run a 12" clutch for the power. Im running an 11" and its not good enough for max power. And the ls1 flywheels DO buckle and their has been alot come back.

Just use whats recommended and proven cranky.

ps. With a cam and heads package you can get 335rwkw
It isnt really the diameter thats the important part its the clamp pressure of the pressure plate, look at most race cars, they run clutches down to 5" dia, fair enough the may be twin, triple or even more plates but point is its to do with the clamp pressure, get a good clucth builder to make one and an 11" would be truck loads

try direct clutch services in qld, they built one for my patrol, its bloody great
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