will a ct 26 fit onto a hilux??

[Timmeh]

hi all
i have a hilux with a ct20 turbo setup and am finding that the turbo is working hard making 10 pound, so was wondering if the larger ct26 would work on the smaller hilux motor?

[HTH]

i have a ct20 turbo set up ready to go on my 2.8 lux,
just wondering what kinda of power inpovements u got?
i am currently looking at buying a ct26 as i think they will pretty much bolt onto the ct20 manifold.
look forward to hearing what ppl have to say about the ct26 for the 2.8

HTH

[Timmeh]

it goes well, but when i pushed the boost upto 10 pound, started getting over heating problems, fitted an oil cooler, bigger radiator, egt gauge stays good, but oil temp rises and stuff so was wondering if the ct26 would help at all

[HTH]

are u running an intercooler? id say that would be your next step if not already taken. hopefully someone no's alot about the ct26.

[Timmeh]

yeah mate, got water to air intercooler set up on there, all works good, apart from it getting hot lol

[Zookified]

Who tuned you lux with the ct20 mate?

I am running a ct20 on around 12 or 13 pound. It makes just under 70hp at the wheels. Prior to the turbo I think it was just over 40hp atw on 33 muddies. Don't have any overheating problems at all with no intercooler and a stock cooling system


CT26 info would be good

[beinthemud]

yes it will and its a better way to go
i have the T26 And i have 90hp

[Mr DJ]

Is the CT20 and the CT26 the same housings with different impellors/turbines ??

I suggest this cause the rebuild kits are exactly the same.

[thehanko]

yes it will and its a better way to go
i have the T26 And i have 90hp

bolts straight up? I though it was a different bolt pattern which required an adaptor or modified manifold.

Dude whilst the ct26 might work well, I dont think its necissarily going to sort out your overheating problems, it might but i would explore it first.

the only way it would hurt things would be if it was running inefficiently and overheating the inlet air, which at 10 psi should be ok unless your vanes are rubbish. but with the ic and normal exhaust temps I dont see how this is your issue. unless too much fuel but again your egts are 'normal', so this should not be it.

when you say oil temps etc are getting up a little bit - what exactly do you mean? are they going up on hills or is the car actually overheating.

so prior to the boost increase what were you running? did you do the fuel yourself?

have you checked tha the vanes arent rough?

I run 11 psi make good power out of it and have no heat issues at all with a ct 20.

[thrashlux]

could be a cracked head or blown gasket letting combustion pressure into the water jacket

is your over flow bottle over flowing under highish engine loads?

if so do a leak down test

[Mr DJ]

How's your rad ??
Is it full of mud (outside) and crud (inside) ??

[Timmeh]

The radiator is new, and all clear, have also done a compression test and all checked out all right, doesn't use water or anything, After being on the highway for a while, half hour or so, i have noticed that the oil pressure is dropping. I was running 7 pound before adding the intercooler and it ran reasonable then. Went to a mechanic, and he had a look at it, told me that he thought that the turbo was to blame, working to hard at that boost and was heating up the oil which was dropping the oil pressure. He suggested to get another turbo or wind back the boost and am not to keen on winding back the boost, so was wondering about the ct26 or even if a hybrid can be made between the ct20 and the ct26??[/quote]

[thrashlux]

The radiator is new, and all clear, have also done a compression test and all checked out all right,

[/quote]

compression test does not check leak down and may still be problem

my mate had the same problem it was a cracked head

going up hill or towing car would overheat

water would boil but it was actually gas going out the over flow it did not apear to use water because it would suck it back in from the overflow as soon as the load had passed then engine would return to normal this would only happen when boost was apied

the gas was displacing the water causing it to over heat

[Mr DJ]

Just a thought, have you ever run some cleaner through the engine to help clean out all the crap that can collect in diesel oil galleries ??

I drained the oil out of mine, put in cheap clean diesel oil and some cleaner, then after it idled for bout 1/2 an hour when I drained it was darker than the first lot that was drained

[Timmeh]

not to sure if the leak down test was done, just when i got it checked out at the mechanic he said that he had checked out the compression and was all good, might find out weather the leak down test was done.
Have run some of the super cheap oil cleaner stuff when i put the oil cooler on so maby i could do it again, do you know of any brands which are better than others?

[Timmeh]

The radiator is new, and all clear, have also done a compression test and all checked out all right, doesn't use water or anything, After being on the highway for a while, half hour or so, i have noticed that the oil pressure is dropping. I was running 7 pound before adding the intercooler and it ran reasonable then. Went to a mechanic, and he had a look at it, told me that he thought that the turbo was to blame, working to hard at that boost and was heating up the oil which was dropping the oil pressure. He suggested to get another turbo or wind back the boost and am not to keen on winding back the boost, so was wondering about the ct26 or even if a hybrid can be made between the ct20 and the ct26??[/quote]

[Mr DJ]

If your mechanic is right, winding back the boost and watching what happens will tell you.

I run 11psi through my CT20 and have for a few years now.
I also have an auto so it creates extra heat and she ususlly runs at around 80 deg. up to 100 deg. on long climbs and loaded up (Cunninghams Gap).

[beinthemud]

sorry thethanko you miss quoted me
I was saying the t26 is abetter upgrade, The t26 isnt the same as the ct20
Timmeh you need to go back to ur so called mechanic and smack him around the ears for being a tool .
I had a CT20 and with a radiator full of mud and running 11psi with 33inch muddys it never over heated try ur thermoste and changing coolent in ur radiator first ,CT20 With intercoolers arnt that good their only a little blower i found it created to much lagg but but then the power came on alot better.
The biggest down side to the ct20 is it has to run hard all the time
the t26 u can back the funny foot off a bit anot use nearly the same amount of boost
iE: ct20 55hp 80kph-2000rpm -10psi
t26 90hp 90kph-2000rpm - 4psi so more speed ,more power,less boost ,less fuel

HTH good to see you finaly made ur mind up but the ct20 and t26 arent a straight swap believe me

[Timmeh]

Beinthemud, when you say "t26", are you talking about the toyota ct26? or are you referring to a different turbo all together?

[beinthemud]

honeywell garret t26

[RUFF]

iE: ct20 55hp 80kph-2000rpm -10psi
t26 90hp 90kph-2000rpm - 4psi so more speed ,more power,less boost ,less fuel

How are you getting 2 different speed figures at the same RPM

[beinthemud]

Mostly cause i wasent trying be to clever and give rpm down to the decimal point just a general idea so was prolly 2500rpm with the ct20 and 2300 with the t26 ISH
but thanks for pointing that out Ruff ill try to to better next time

[ferrit]

wonder if a CT12b would be a better upgrade than the CT26?

The 12b is what the 3.0TD factory motors use.

[berad]

As has been stated.

they have bigger turbines than the ct20, there is a few variants of them, coming from 3sgtes, 7mgtes etc. they will bolt on they have the same housings etc.

Another variable in the ct26s, some have steel wheels, some have a ceramic front wheel (no good for more than 14psi), some have single and some have dual intake ports, which is something to consider with mounting to the manifold you have. split port is spost to spool if faster/smoother as it splits the exhaust pulses.

The supra ct26s (7mgte) have a single intake port, and steel wheels, the group a 3sgte's have dual exhaust ports with steel wheels, the normal st165/st185 and mr2s run ceramic front wheels.

Adding a boost controller even if running stock boost will spool faster also as it holds the gate 100% shut until the set boost is achieved, without it, the wastegate will not be 100% closed as the turbo spools, that is my personal exp with the ct26 and other internally gated turbos.

If it was mine, id buy an adaptor for the manifold and run a ball bearing unit either new or 2nd hand off another motor, but would need a new dump pipe, and probably water and oil lines.

[thehanko]

Mostly cause i wasent trying be to clever and give rpm down to the decimal point just a general idea so was prolly 2500rpm with the ct20 and 2300 with the t26 ISH
but thanks for pointing that out Ruff ill try to to better next time

Thats not ruffs point.

unless you changed your gearing - different tyres, or gear box or were using a different gear / variable auto or something else this is rubbish, gearing is set, the power or boost might change, but the gearing cannot change and as such neither can your engine speed : ground speed ratio.

having max boost all the time is usually to goal with most turbos, you want it to come on early then hold max boost all the way through you driving range, so i dont see how dropping from 10 psi to 4 psi gives you more power.

THE ONLY REASON I CAN SEE that your turbo is causing overheating with the extra boost is if that turbo has vanes which have been overheated and damaged and now are heating the air and getting hot themselves.

backing off the boost could help this, or you could get another ct 20 without damaged vanes.

its simple to check - pull the air intake pipe off the turbo - on the pre turbo air cleaner side, easy job and have a look at the vanes, if they look all chipped then they are no good, if they look good then this is not the issue.

but as mentioned a ct20 in good order at 10 psi will not cause your problems - hoever a bad one could.

[beinthemud]

I think it was Ruffs point and it was well made
oh ok thehanko ill go put a t4 on my 2.4 ltr cause itll make the same same power at the same rpm as a ct20 now me thinks ur talking rubbish

vanes ?

I dought your over heating has anything to do with your vanes unless they have to much alcohol in them
check your cooling system
1)when was the last time you changed your coolent
2)thermostate
3)Flushed the system
4)washed the radiator

its hard to see how it could be a turbo there no smoke, no oil coming from the exhaust ,its not using oil its just getting hot

[beinthemud]

heres a silly question when did you last change your oil and filter

[thehanko]

I think it was Ruffs point and it was well made
oh ok thehanko ill go put a t4 on my 2.4 ltr cause itll make the same same power at the same rpm as a ct20 now me thinks ur talking rubbish

sigh

dude i'm not even going to discuss the above it makes no sense.

I think we are missunderstanding one another. im not trying to create argument.

neither of us think its the turbo. but i stand by my statement that the vanes of a turbo if they are damaged will run less efficiently and heat the intake air more, this inefficiency is increased with the boost, which is the only way i can try to associate his increase in boost effecting an increase in temp. but im still not convinced that this is the problem.

Basically I recommend checking your vanes, I also recommend finding a new mechanic as a ct20 on a car making 10psi, with ic and oil cooler and normal egts should not be having overheating problems unless something else is wrong. you other mechanic didnt find an answer so try somewhere else.

im out - last post in this thread.

good luck

[beinthemud]

I think it was Ruffs point and it was well made
oh ok thehanko ill go put a t4 on my 2.4 ltr cause itll make the same same power at the same rpm as a ct20 now me thinks ur talking rubbish

sigh

dude i'm not even going to discuss the above it makes no sense.

I think we are missunderstanding one another. im not trying to create argument.

neither of us think its the turbo. but i stand by my statement that the vanes of a turbo if they are damaged will run less efficiently and heat the intake air more, this inefficiency is increased with the boost, which is the only way i can try to associate his increase in boost effecting an increase in temp. but im still not convinced that this is the problem.

Basically I recommend checking your vanes, I also recommend finding a new mechanic as a ct20 on a car making 10psi, with ic and oil cooler and normal egts should not be having overheating problems unless something else is wrong. you other mechanic didnt find an answer so try somewhere else.

im out - last post in this thread.

good luck

point taken and agreed with well some of it
a ct20 running 10psi should last 1000s of kilometre
also has the water feed been connected i found mine ran hot before before i new about them and that they should be

[Timmeh]

yes the ute had a new radiator, and had the water flushed and new coolant put in, new thermostat so the cooling system should be fine. It is a water cooled turbo, and yes it is hooked up, but i read somewhere that it should have an inlet on one side of the turbo, and outlet on the other side of the turbo, mine has two ports but is using the standard surf water pipes where it has the inlet and the outlet on the same side, and the other port sealed off. I don't know if it makes much difference but i will give it a go anyways.

I have no problems in slow going around town or in the bush runs fine, it is just when on the highway at 100-110 it starts to play up. It sits on full boost at 100 which could be where the "needs bigger turbo" came from, or is this normal for the ct20?

I had a look at the inlet and there is some damage to the vanes, rough edges but no chips or anything major i think but i will check into this, this also might be where the "needs bigger turbo" came from as well.


Thanks everyone for your input, it has given me some places to look for the issue.

I was told that the turbo is working flat out for highway use. If i had a bigger turbo it would be working not as hard to flow the same amount of air. This is where i started looking for turbo options and i was hoping for the ease of bolt off bolt on with the ct26 as opposed to going another full kit. This is only an idea i had but think that the hilux will not flow enough to spool the bigger turbo early enough in the rev range, but i am no guru with this sort of stuff.

So back to the question, does anyone know it the toyota landcruiser turbo (not the import supra) ct26 will work on the hilux or will the littler engine not flow enough to spool it up? Is it possible to make a hybrid of the two turbo's, turbine of the ct20, and the compressor wheel of the ct26 or something of the sort??