80 series Pbrake question and lockers

[IBCRUSN]

I recently purchased a '94 80 series. After checking things out I have only come up with two problems w/o an obvious solutions.

1. When the Pbrake is pulled it won't release. After some investigation the pivots on the Pbrake levers at the wheel are rather corroded inside the little boot. Is there a permanant fix for this so it won't bind up in the future? Hell, is this a problem in any other area besides upstate NY (road salt)?

2. When the lockers are switched on the idiot lights just flash. I was under the impression that once they locked the light would be steady. Is this true? If in fact I am having problems, in your experience what's the best place to start?

Thank you much for the help ahead of time. This is all a fun new experience. Much different than the 40 series I used to have.

Kris

[80diesel4play]

Don't know about the idiot lights - earth leakage in teh lights. it sounds like to me.

The Handbrakes are a PITA - as they are drum in rear wheels only - get em serviced and fixed - and expect to have them adjusted every 10,000.

[Pesky Pete]

Handbrakes are shockers. In my mind it is a major shortcoming in a well put together vehicle. I never get more than about 2,000 out of my adjustment and have given up trying to keep it adjusted. If I'm going on a run where I think I may need the handbrake to hold on a hill, I will adjust it.

As for the corrosion, I spray my levers etc reqularly with WD40 or similar to ensure that it has a good coating on it. Seems to help.

Cheers

Pete

[dow50r]

Loka light flashing means they are not locked, water gets into them aswell
Andrew

[IBCRUSN]

Thank you gents.

Said vehicle is a US spec model so it has disc brakes. Not that it makes much difference. I'll keep spraying PB on them and smacking them with a mallet until they loosen up.

I'll have to look into the locker actuators once it warms up.

I need to get the service manual. The 40 series one doesn't do me much good.

cheers,
Kris

[Kiwi Ray]

Hi
When the lights are flashing they are waiting to lock.
some times they will go straight in if you are driving or you may have to move the truck from left to right to change the relative axle position to line up the splines
The lights steady when the diffs are locked

[80UTE]

I set up a custom handbrake system that uses 2 aditional 80 rear caliper's on the rear disc's and adapted a clutch master to the hand brake lever. The parkbrake always works no matter how much mud but it isn't road legal.(Truck is used for playing only)
As for the diff lock lights this indicates that the difflock ECU is trying to lock the diff. Once the actuator is in the lock position it activates a limit switch that tells the ECU that the diff is locked, the light than stays on.
Keep in mind that the ECU dissconnects the the lockers at speeds above 8 km/hr (5 mph) and the light starts to flash. On my wifes 80 with factory lockers i tricked the ECU by cutting the speed sensor wire , this indicates to the ECU that the speed is less than 5 km/hr and the lockers stay on at all speeds.

[IBCRUSN]

80ute,
Where is the wire you took care of? Sounds like a great idea.

Kris

[80UTE]

The wire i cut was at the ECU plug, on Australian spec modles the ECU is located in the lefthand side kick panel. On US spec it may be on the other side being it would be LH drive. I used the factory repair manual and on the schematic it is the wire that goes from the ECU to the speed sensor in the instument cluster. I could check my manual but it may not be correct for US spec.

Regards

[theferg]

No one really said anything, and it's kinda a no-brainer--but just in case--make sure and try the lockers on some nice low-traction dirt or gravel. Some people like to try 'em out on the pavement and it's more difficult to get 'em to lock there.

Also, gotta be in 4-low I believe and the center-diff has to be locked too (some trucks have a manual enter diff-lock switch and some don't--not sure which years...)

But, ya, the actuators have been known to stick. Lotsa prissy folks owned these trucks when they were brand new and most have no idea what the diff locks are and never even used them (atleast in the States anyway). But anyway, if it is a sticky actuator, I've heard that you just have to keep tryin' it a bunch on low-traction ground and it might eventually give. And like Kiwi said, it might help to drive the truck in a turn. This will get the wheels (and axle shafts) on opposite sides of the truck to spin and different speeds and will help line up the lock sleeve. If that all doesn't work, you may have to take apart the actuator and give it a cleanin'.

Oh, and here's a good tech page on the sticky actuator: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htm

-Ferg-

[IBCRUSN]

Thanks much for the advice. I hear ya about the snoots that purchased these things new. They don't know what they are really designed for. I'll keep plugging away at them. We'll see, I'l prolly have to overhaul the actautors. Which is ok too so I'll be able to fix it in the bush when it breaks.

80UTE,
What color is the wire you clipped to fix the speed sensor? I like the idea of being able to use the lockers whenever I want.

Kris

[80UTE]

IBCRUSN,
I'll have look overnight and get back to you tomorrow.

80UTE

[IBCRUSN]

No worries. I won't be working on it until I get back to Florida, where it's warm.

Kris

[80UTE]

IBCRUSN,
it's a black wire with red trace.

[IBCRUSN]

Thank you much sir. Now if I cut this wire and the whole thing explodes can I send you the bill? lol

Cheers,
Kris