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hi guys,
i have been looking for a zook for about a year now and to be honest i have not been looking real hard, however i have the opportunity to grab this one and i was hoping all you zook guru's could help me with info on exactly what model it is and what probs it may have etc.
my father is a panel beater and my bro is a mechanic, they inspected it for me today as its in QLD, it has rust in both pillars, rust just starting around windscreen and some rust in the rear near the tail lights also some rust in 1 door, the gear box has a rattle and hum to it im told, and my bro confirms its not the thrust bearing, the engine had some gudgeon knock on cold start up and the engine had an unusual high idle the harmonic balancer was also un balanced and wobbling.the fibreglass roof has a leak as some rust and water stains were present around the roll bar in the rear of the tray area. the info i have is its an 85 model and five speed, obviously a narrow track, i think it is lwb four seater S413.
i am fairly handy especially with a car that is as simple as this to work on and i am more than capable of rust and most mechanical repairs. what do you think it is worth in this condition without rego or a roadworthy and i will also have to get it shipped down to wollongong ($405)
thanks santos, i didnt want to upset any mods in this section. i have created havoc on 2 forums trying to post up images, ha ha i got it sorted now though.
im waiting to hear back from the owner of the zook to see what they think is a fair price they will probably say $2000 lol
i bought my LWB in similar condition for 1200. There is a lot of work to fix rust in that position, if you are handy with a tig/mig and can spraypaint at home then go for it.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
i got a rusty 1litre 83 model lwb with later model nt diffs (disk brakes) also had a blown head gasket and lots more work for 200 bucks i guess the older model ones are worth less but
also has any one got pics of one set up for camping i wonder if they are long enough to put a mattress in
im sure there will be heaps i need to know, im still waiting to hear back from the seller. if i keep the stock motor for a while i will need a gear box, what fits and what doesnt? i will probably end up doing a 1.6 conversion so i guess i will probably still need a new sierra box.
i would also like to see some images of other lwb sierra's so i can get some ideas on what other people have done
eldo like i said find out the chassis number, it will tell you if its an sj40, sj410, sj413, or sj50/70. there may be a letter after the SJxxx to denote lwb
-[b]Santos[/b][img]http://www.teamswift.net/images/smilies/icon_furious.gif[/img]
Suzuki, Jeep & Toyota Soft tops with welded seams for SALE (PM me)
I think it's seriously worth $1K to $1.5K - but that's very dependent on the extent of the rust.
I know your Dad can handle rust repair, but there's rust repair and rust repair as you'd know, generally, what you can see is normally about 10% of what's there. If it's deep into the cowl (under the windscreen) then it's 50/50 whether it's worth pursuing- if you have to cut up a SWB to get all the repair parts you need to stitch it back together, then it might not be a good buy.
I"m not 100% sure it's worth $2K, but if the rust is only as bad as it looks on the surface, it might be.
It's a desirable car and in generally good condition. I paid $7K for one in not dissimilar condition, but soft top ( and less rust) in 1997.
Generally, I'd only view any LWB as a tub and rails these days - you're going to want more motor, WT diffs, and a general clean up.
At less than $2K, I think I'd buy it.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Its gunna rattle, sqeak, leak and handle like a bucket on the road but thats how you can tell your driving a sierra. Even the good ones going for 6-7k are still the same to drive as the cheapies but they may need more attention. My advice is to check the underneath of the car and make sure all the bolts arnt rusted to sihit. Generally in perth at least if its got rust then its spent a fair bit of time on the beach or salty mud. Dont buy a bucket just for the sake of having a LWB, that being said from the pics i would pay $1500-2000 looks good enough.
thanks guys for all the info so far, aparently the underside was very clean from what dad and bro say. i will be doing all the rust repairs myself down here in wollongong, the old man is up there in QLD and was just inspecting it for me, he has plenty of projects on the go already anyway.
still waiting to hear back from the owner about a realistic price and also a vin number, i pretty much have my heart set on it.
do wide track flares basically fit straight onto the NT body?
No, you'll need to remove the NT flares and their supporting strips that are spotwelded to the body and weld on the steel WT flare bracket that the flare attaches to.
The flares themselves are useless without the brackets that are welded to the body.
They won't be wide enough once you go to WT diffs anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to find them in good nick. Go straight to the calmini style once you have the track width sorted.
Just my 2C.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I think he has bundy diffs in mind anywayso with the wide track flares the tyres are going to stick out anyway and dont worry luke I got the strips for the wide track flares as well have you heard anything yet?
current truck, 105 series GXL diesel 6" springs & twin pro lockers
sierra LWB spoa one wide track diffs twin locked
thanks steve, jusy keeping my options open is all. i was really wanting to put the really wide flares on it anyway, similiar to the ones people use from Jeeps i think.
im also thinking of doing the hilux diff option, if im going to start cutting and welding i may as well put something worth wile underneath it
nah jimbo i have not heard anything yet, im thinking if it gets ugly i just might pay the asking price and get it and be done with it, i hope your prepared to give me some inspiration buddy!!!! i will be over measuring up your zook every day!!!! i might have access to a complete hilux for parts soon so that will come in handy, its a lot of work to do though..
your better of with the bundy diffs its a bit more work cutting off tho old brackets but the rear pinion is positioned better than the lux one reduces the drive shaft angle and vibrations at speed
current truck, 105 series GXL diesel 6" springs & twin pro lockers
sierra LWB spoa one wide track diffs twin locked
