Just wondering if the transfer needs to be offset or slightly angled at all when used in conjunction with Lux diffs as my project has the transfer in the tray, it would seem all the dodgy mounts have snapped clean off.
I have cut all the brackets of my spare Lwb chassie and was planning to just weld them straight on with the shafts all bolted up it should go on straight, considering the small jackshaft is about 4" long due to 4age conversion there shouldnt be much room for movement.
cheers mick
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Transfer position with Lux diffs
If you angled it, wouldn't the unis on the rear shaft be out of phase? I think Mart had a CV shaft.
Also, if you moved it over, any angle taken out of the rear shaft would be placed on the smaller jackshaft wouldn't it? Or am I missing something?
I say go the bundy rear or 60s. If you're really keen, you could just buy bundy axles and cut your lux axle housing and move the pumpkin over a la the Sky offset housing.
Also, if you moved it over, any angle taken out of the rear shaft would be placed on the smaller jackshaft wouldn't it? Or am I missing something?
I say go the bundy rear or 60s. If you're really keen, you could just buy bundy axles and cut your lux axle housing and move the pumpkin over a la the Sky offset housing.
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|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
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case is moved further back because of 4age transplant.
I will have a go at it over the next couple of days, i only have stupid 1ltr shafts on there but will be upgrading once its all up and driving.
Had a bit of a play today and recon if i bolt everything up including the driveshafts and the brackets i cut of another chassie and tack them on then remove the T-case and fully weld the it should be ok. hopefully...
I will have a go at it over the next couple of days, i only have stupid 1ltr shafts on there but will be upgrading once its all up and driving.
Had a bit of a play today and recon if i bolt everything up including the driveshafts and the brackets i cut of another chassie and tack them on then remove the T-case and fully weld the it should be ok. hopefully...
i tried mucking around with DC joints with a lux diff.. nothing worked!! Got a bundy housing, problem fixed 
(now using a lux front shaft, without DC)
(now using a lux front shaft, without DC)F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
I ran the tranfer angled and this removed the vibration from the tailshafts , the rear was originally a cv to cope with the two angle's , it ran too hot , so I moved the transfer on a angle and lowered the rear slightly , this enabled a uni to replace the cv. However the front cv remained to compensate for the tilt in the tranfer case. The two tail shafts where lined up between the two diffcentres to form a straight line , eliminating one angle on the shafts. A solid cradle type mount is absolutely neccesary to avoid transfer damage. I also ran a soild mounted driveline and this was also quite smooth , using nissan patrol trailing arm bushes , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
The previous owners attempt was a solid mount setup, this snapped clean off, so i thought i could put it back to standard and go from there. I may get one of those mighty kong type mounts eventually but i will just have to see how it handles it. They may snap straight away for all i know, judging from how the the car was built it would appear i will be re-doing quit a few things e.g. adjustable engine mounts ??? Hmmm
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