car trailer suspension?

[narnturbogq]

The system mentioned above is the sens-a-brake system. These systems are used on big boat trailers (3 axles and 4.5ton), and work by using a pressure pad on the tow vehicles brake pedal, and the more pressure applied the more force applied to the trailer brakes, meaning the the tow vehicles brakes and the trailer brakes are working as one and in sink, unlike electric brakes which can lock if not set right
Another advantage is they work in reverse, the last thing you want is a 4.5ton boat/trailer combo taking off backwards on a wet slippery ramp.

Heres a link to their site: http://www.sensabrake.com/page.cfm?id=3

[Renton]

thanks for all the advice guys.

i ended up buying a trailer yesterday. its only 2 yrs old and hardly used. it weighs in at 520kg's and rated to carry 2t. it has cable operated disc brakes on the front axle only.

does anyone think i'll need to upgrade the brakes to hydraulic/electric?

[tweak'e]

He is suggesting that the momentum of the trailer will slam into the back of your car, activating the trailer brakes, then your car (cause you havent hit the brakes?) rolls backwards toward the trailer which keeps the brakes activated?

Not going to happen. when you lose traction your trailer has 0 momentum, and just skull drags you.

well we have had it do that.
need to remember that even lifting your foot off the gas is enough for the trailer brakes to come on. every time we stop the brakes are still on, have to drive forward to get them off.
anyway i think thats all beside the point.
if you can't get traction with the tow vehicle then the smaller trailer tires are never going to get enough traction especially if you try to have all the braking on one trailer axle. brakes may work (even with electric) but they will just lock up and slide.
without traction, brakes will not do anything.

cable brakes, never had them but one thing i would watch is if any sticks etc can flick up and jam the brakes on. if i remember right to convert will require new calipers. that makes t a bit expencive to do.

[STIKA]

thanks for all the advice guys.

i ended up buying a trailer yesterday. its only 2 yrs old and hardly used. it weighs in at 520kg's and rated to carry 2t. it has cable operated disc brakes on the front axle only.

does anyone think i'll need to upgrade the brakes to hydraulic/electric?

Yep

are you sure it not rated for 2t in total, which means you can only carry 1480kgs

[Slunnie]

thanks for all the advice guys.

i ended up buying a trailer yesterday. its only 2 yrs old and hardly used. it weighs in at 520kg's and rated to carry 2t. it has cable operated disc brakes on the front axle only.

does anyone think i'll need to upgrade the brakes to hydraulic/electric?

Yep

are you sure it not rated for 2t in total, which means you can only carry 1480kgs

Thats exactly what it sounds like to me.

[Athol]

thanks for all the advice guys.

i ended up buying a trailer yesterday. its only 2 yrs old and hardly used. it weighs in at 520kg's and rated to carry 2t. it has cable operated disc brakes on the front axle only.

does anyone think i'll need to upgrade the brakes to hydraulic/electric?

Yep

are you sure it not rated for 2t in total, which means you can only carry 1480kgs

If it's only 2 years old and has over-ride brakes on one axle only, it can't have an ATM over 2000kg. Gotta have breakaway to exceed 2000kg.

Here's the federal Vehicle Standards Bulletin for building light trailers. It dates from at least late 1993 that I know of, with only minor changes:

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... index.aspx

Athol