Baleno G16B oil pressures

Post by **PJ.zook** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 4:03 pm

I cant find mention of what oil pressure should be at certain temps or RPM so someone here might know whats normal.
Basically i have nice oil pressure when engine is cold, but as it warms up the oil pressure keeps dropping and dropping to almost nothing, but not enough to turn the oil pressure warning light on. Im wondering if this is normal, as with the prime movers i work on the oil pressure is regulated by a spring loaded valve (or series of them) that keeps the pressure constant at any temperature.
I charted down what the pressures are at what coolant temperature:

40-60deg 50psi
60-70deg 40psi
70-80deg 30psi
80-83deg 20psi
83-100deg 10psi
100-110deg 4psi

The engine low idles at around 900rpm when cold and seems to gradually drop to around 500rpm when hot.
When the engine is hot, the oil pressure linearly goes back up to around 40-50psi at high idle.

Post by **nicbeer** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 5:17 pm

doesnt oil get thinnner when running hotter? so therefor less pressure?

Post by **PJ.zook** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:30 pm

Generally yes it does, thats why im asking if what is happening is normal. Does the baleno have a pressure regulating valve that may be stuffing up, or is the fuel pump too worn and cant keep the pressure up when oil is thin and RPM low, or is whats happening perfectly normal?

Post by **lay80n** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:00 pm

4psi sounds a bit low but yout engine shouldnt sit that hot for ages. What oil are your running. 10psi sounds okayish IMHO. I know my turbo liberty gets to about 18psi at NOT (about 85-90 deg cel). Starts at somthing huge like 80psi on a really cold morning. Most idiot lights (oil pressure lights) are at 2psi or so. Basically nothing.

Layto....

Post by **brendan_h** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:31 pm

i am at around 8psi at idel when warm up ie after a highway run

Post by **lay80n** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:37 pm

Your NOT idle speed of 500rpm is a bit low, it should be around 750-800rpm from memory. This will bring the pressure up a bit.

Layto....

Post by **PJ.zook** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:24 pm

Idle speed is all computer controlled and the engine light doesnt come on, so i assume thats normal.
I havent got any of the idle ups connected, might do that, as when its idling and the thermo fan comes on it almost dies in the ass.
I think i will switch to a thicker engine oil and leave it at that, see what it does.

Post by **PJ.zook** » Sun May 24, 2009 1:20 pm

Well there is now no oil pressure at all when zook is idling. I need to know if they do have a relief valve i can check or should i just replace the oil pump. Where can i get one and how much does anyone know?

Bloody rear main is leakin again, will only buy genuine from now on, fark removing the gbox every time.

Post by **brendan_h** » Sun May 24, 2009 3:36 pm

ive noticed when i going down the freeway. 100kmh reving at around 3300rpm and i am only getting around 20 25spi oil pressure. if im going down a hill the pressure gets to 30psi and if i go up a hill its goes to 20psi. it has defently got enough oil in there

Post by **joeblow** » Sun May 24, 2009 5:09 pm

PJ.zook wrote:Idle speed is all computer controlled and the engine light doesnt come on, so i assume thats normal.
I havent got any of the idle ups connected, might do that, as when its idling and the thermo fan comes on it almost dies in the ass.
I think i will switch to a thicker engine oil and leave it at that, see what it does.

don't just switch to thicker oil, that will not solve the problem. the engine idleing that low is not normal and something may be wrong with the wiring. sort it out quick or risk losing a bottom end.

Post by **lay80n** » Wed May 27, 2009 9:52 am

As Joe said ^^^ that is not normal. Just because the idle is computer controlled doesnt mean it is aways right. The ecu just rely's on sensors, if there is a sensor error, sensor adjustment out, vacuum leak or simillar problem it will still idle low/high/rough or whatever. Chech that you have no vacuum leaks or fittings/hoses that have fallen off or cracked. Check that the Idle air control valve and system is opperating and is clean and free to cycle. Check your exhaust is leak free and your o2 sensor is functioning. Make sure your throttle stop has not been played with at some stage. Check your TPS adjustment and opperation. The vacuum leaks will tend to make your idle high and rough, but they are still worth checking over. You can clean your throttle body and IAC system with carby cleaner.

As well as these, check your pressure relief valve. Depending on how long ago you serviced it, a new oil filter and oil would be good too.

Layto....

Post by **PJ.zook** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 3:31 pm

Well, i found the problem. I took the sump off and removed the pressure valve from bottom of oil pump, and the sleeve was stuck in the housing. Theyre only $15 from Suzuki so i ordered a new one.

Only problem is, when i removed a big end and main cap, it is not good news at all, bearings are absolutely farked and the crank is marked.
Soo have to rip out crank and get that machined, new oversize bearings, new seals, $300 later...
I just hope the cam hasnt suffered as that doesnt even have replaceable bearings.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:51 pm

ill come over with some matches and petrol and put you out of your misery. Just think how much fun it will be when its all done.

Post by **lay80n** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:08 am

Damn PJ, that really sucks.

Layto....

Post by **PJ.zook** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:39 pm

Yeh it does indeed suck, but no use complaining, just gotta fix it.

Now, my boss at work told me if the marking is not too bad (which it isnt), i can just give it a going over with some wet n dry on one side, then rotate crank and do other side, all while crank still in situ.
Anyone actually done this?

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Baleno G16B oil pressures

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