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Engine and Auto options for comp rig. Need Advice...
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
You guys are forgetting something.....
I can see the point of compairing the angle up as being the same as across but its not.
When lifting a truck you rotate your pinion and sometimes even use gearbox spacers..... this brings things far back into the plain.
Your point would be right if you simply lifted the car and left the pinion angle alone.
rockcrawler31, your offset on your diffs is nothing compaired to the angle this will cause. Especially on my rig due to a shorter wheelbase. having a drivers output transfer and running a centre diff is an insane angle to be putting on a car that is used on road.
Wooders, patrols are all i know. Never seen one yet that has a Trackbar as standard mate. Not sure where you got that from.....
The track bars he wouldnt pass are the anti wrap track bars installed on a vechicle running Leave spring SOA.
Obviously if your refering to a GQ or GU this isnt the same as they run link setups.....
Guys,
you all seem to missing the point here..... This thread is not about whether you all think that a shaft offset is ok or not.
This is not the question im asking.
I have been there and done that with shaft offset. I know what it does to a truck as ive had one in TTC running this setup. I know what stress it puts on pinions and i also know that i CAN run this setup if i want, but prefer to stay away from it, only a money issue will make me run this setup.
end of the story is i dont want to run shaft offset unless i have to, and i know all of the tech required on that subject,
so can i please only have ppl posting up that can provide tech on the GQ Autos and T400 and T700 conversions as this is what im after...
thanks.
I can see the point of compairing the angle up as being the same as across but its not.
When lifting a truck you rotate your pinion and sometimes even use gearbox spacers..... this brings things far back into the plain.
Your point would be right if you simply lifted the car and left the pinion angle alone.
rockcrawler31, your offset on your diffs is nothing compaired to the angle this will cause. Especially on my rig due to a shorter wheelbase. having a drivers output transfer and running a centre diff is an insane angle to be putting on a car that is used on road.
Wooders, patrols are all i know. Never seen one yet that has a Trackbar as standard mate. Not sure where you got that from.....
The track bars he wouldnt pass are the anti wrap track bars installed on a vechicle running Leave spring SOA.
Obviously if your refering to a GQ or GU this isnt the same as they run link setups.....
Guys,
you all seem to missing the point here..... This thread is not about whether you all think that a shaft offset is ok or not.
This is not the question im asking.
I have been there and done that with shaft offset. I know what it does to a truck as ive had one in TTC running this setup. I know what stress it puts on pinions and i also know that i CAN run this setup if i want, but prefer to stay away from it, only a money issue will make me run this setup.
end of the story is i dont want to run shaft offset unless i have to, and i know all of the tech required on that subject,
so can i please only have ppl posting up that can provide tech on the GQ Autos and T400 and T700 conversions as this is what im after...
thanks.
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
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Sorry to me a TrackBar is a panhard (probably deal with too many yanks;)) as it's designed to keep the axles tracking straight under a coil sprung vehicle (including patrol) - not an anti-wrap/traction bar which is trying to prevent axle wrap. So sounds like we have a terminology misunderstanding.Screwy wrote:You guys are forgetting something.....
I can see the point of compairing the angle up as being the same as across but its not.
When lifting a truck you rotate your pinion and sometimes even use gearbox spacers..... this brings things far back into the plain.
Your point would be right if you simply lifted the car and left the pinion angle alone.
rockcrawler31, your offset on your diffs is nothing compaired to the angle this will cause. Especially on my rig due to a shorter wheelbase. having a drivers output transfer and running a centre diff is an insane angle to be putting on a car that is used on road.
Wooders, patrols are all i know. Never seen one yet that has a Trackbar as standard mate. Not sure where you got that from.....
The track bars he wouldnt pass are the anti wrap track bars installed on a vechicle running Leave spring SOA.
Obviously if your refering to a GQ or GU this isnt the same as they run link setups.....
Guys,
you all seem to missing the point here..... This thread is not about whether you all think that a shaft offset is ok or not.
This is not the question im asking.
I have been there and done that with shaft offset. I know what it does to a truck as ive had one in TTC running this setup. I know what stress it puts on pinions and i also know that i CAN run this setup if i want, but prefer to stay away from it, only a money issue will make me run this setup.
end of the story is i dont want to run shaft offset unless i have to, and i know all of the tech required on that subject,
so can i please only have ppl posting up that can provide tech on the GQ Autos and T400 and T700 conversions as this is what im after...
thanks.
In terms of the pinion & driveshafts - I'll continue to disagree with what you've said because you are referring to a specific configuration when there are a number of different joints available that certainly will not stress the pinion and with the correct settings will run smooth & without any issue.
But back to your original questions I thought they had all been answered repeatedly

Cheap - My 2cents = 308+TH400+GQ t/case
Not cheap - My 2 cents = LS1+TH700R4+ Atlas/Stak.
What other questions did you have??
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
Well ive read various things from ppl about work required to autos to perform correctly.
I would like know the the story behind Whether a GQ auto is ok behind a V8 or it needs mod work done to it,
And the same question about T400 and T700 as far as does work need to be done....
Are any of these autos ok straight from get go.... if so which and what work needs to be done to the others as far as shift kits etc etc are needed?
screwy
I would like know the the story behind Whether a GQ auto is ok behind a V8 or it needs mod work done to it,
And the same question about T400 and T700 as far as does work need to be done....
Are any of these autos ok straight from get go.... if so which and what work needs to be done to the others as far as shift kits etc etc are needed?
screwy
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why make things difficult?
just get a GU 4.8 with the auto and tcase!
they all match and are suited for one another, they are all designed for a 4wd and have 4wd rated plugs with the right rubber boots and are designed for a 4wd in water, mud and dust.
I alsways find it laughable going to comps and watching guys spend all weekend fixing stuff on their rigs, while guys with std'ish type engines and setups never open the bonnet
why re-invent the wheel. A stock GU 4.8 has the same if not more power than an old 304. except it was designed to be run on angles! and has an oiling system which is made for a 4wd. It has an auto which is made to suit it, and a good transfer case to match....... FFS it will always end up being cheaper in the long run.
just get a GU 4.8 with the auto and tcase!
they all match and are suited for one another, they are all designed for a 4wd and have 4wd rated plugs with the right rubber boots and are designed for a 4wd in water, mud and dust.
I alsways find it laughable going to comps and watching guys spend all weekend fixing stuff on their rigs, while guys with std'ish type engines and setups never open the bonnet

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And greg nails it in one. My falcon 6 has more power then the hsv 308!.
You could probably get the whole package for 3k.
cheers bru
You could probably get the whole package for 3k.
cheers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Only question whats the factory ECU like to run in a different car minus body control modules and the like? Otherwise perfect solution.1MadEngineer wrote:why make things difficult?
just get a GU 4.8 with the auto and tcase!
they all match and are suited for one another, they are all designed for a 4wd and have 4wd rated plugs with the right rubber boots and are designed for a 4wd in water, mud and dust.
I alsways find it laughable going to comps and watching guys spend all weekend fixing stuff on their rigs, while guys with std'ish type engines and setups never open the bonnetwhy re-invent the wheel. A stock GU 4.8 has the same if not more power than an old 304. except it was designed to be run on angles! and has an oiling system which is made for a 4wd. It has an auto which is made to suit it, and a good transfer case to match....... FFS it will always end up being cheaper in the long run.
Also whats wrong with the 4.2td motor in the car? Very simple designed to be there and reasonable power

Unless you want to try high speed events and want a lot more horsepower for not alot of money
GU 42td wagon for touring
GU ute for the fun stuff
http://www.allterrain4wd.org.au/
GU ute for the fun stuff
http://www.allterrain4wd.org.au/
There is no driveline in this rig. hasnt been one since ice been building it. Im at that stage now.
The GQ in my sig line is my tow rig and tourer. Im happy with the TD42T thats in it.
Well i like the idea presented here.....
stock fuel injected 4.8 litre nissan motor with auto and transfer.... that could work.
As already asked..... Whats involved in the computer and wiring side of things for a hook up like this?
Screwy
The GQ in my sig line is my tow rig and tourer. Im happy with the TD42T thats in it.
Well i like the idea presented here.....
stock fuel injected 4.8 litre nissan motor with auto and transfer.... that could work.
As already asked..... Whats involved in the computer and wiring side of things for a hook up like this?
Screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
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auto
doing a very similiar driveline build as well chev and auto in gu. have spoken to numerous mechanics,competitors,auto specialists and hotrodders. will be building mine as a d/d and tow car.got motor etc just looking for the donor truck.
general concensus(spell?) from the people i have spoken to is this.
i am no mechanic
1.... the factory auto will be ok if i throw some $$ at one if i want to drive it hard(not driving mine hard and looking for a blown 3lt man)
2.... turbo 350/400 are a very good option and very tough.for my needs, standard form is fine but if i want to drive it hard most reccomend a stage 2 shiftkit and standard stall conv.
3.... early turbo 700 out of vn/vp v8. these have a mech kick down so dont need a comp to run them. they have an extra gear so ratios suit MY needs.just been advised to run a large auto cooler and if doing 80-90km/hr on the h/way to run in 3rd.
i got a lot of info from the hotrodding guys as they are very auto orientated even though their needs are very diff to what you require.
good luck and have fun.
general concensus(spell?) from the people i have spoken to is this.
i am no mechanic

1.... the factory auto will be ok if i throw some $$ at one if i want to drive it hard(not driving mine hard and looking for a blown 3lt man)
2.... turbo 350/400 are a very good option and very tough.for my needs, standard form is fine but if i want to drive it hard most reccomend a stage 2 shiftkit and standard stall conv.
3.... early turbo 700 out of vn/vp v8. these have a mech kick down so dont need a comp to run them. they have an extra gear so ratios suit MY needs.just been advised to run a large auto cooler and if doing 80-90km/hr on the h/way to run in 3rd.
i got a lot of info from the hotrodding guys as they are very auto orientated even though their needs are very diff to what you require.
good luck and have fun.
only the first roll hurts, then its a ride..
4.8? now ta talkn!!Keep away from 5 speed auto though. weak and uses too much bull$#it computor crap.Go manual motor(no fly by wire)and older 4 speed nissan auto beefed up.Might b up for aftermarket comp or it might b easer as i`m not sure how you would tell te gbox to shift tpi might work?I know with aftermarket this way works.It`s got my vote.
Inya Racing..
Have run a th700 and rover lt230 , behind a v6 = cheap low range
The non computer 700 is good from both ends , gives a 3.06 1st gear
you can wire the converter to lock up via a switch , and if you do end up registering the beast this box gives you a .700 overdrive
Shift kits Normaly add higher hydraulic pressure on the clutch packs , preventing slip = reduction in heat ,only negative is they tend to raise the RPM for gear changes and shift much harder. With lower gearing all this is magnified . so you will get HARD shifts especially in low range with a trailing throttle.
Keep it Cool keeps it together.
It all equals a huge range of gearing , Gq transfer i havn,t had any thing to do with them , but i have looked at the cost of doing one ,
Marks does a TH700 to gq transfer for $1000 and a set of 3.73 transfer gears for around $1300-1400 ,
Thats around 50-1 with 4,11 diffs add the converter ratio probly 70-1
Lets face it most stuff in comps now isn,t exactley rock crawling more like rock smashing you need the ability to achieve quick momentum.
so 100 plus to one crawl ratios are they really needed .
You get close to the same gearing using the stock rover transfer ,sam or tony can convert a rover for front digs i think, (lt230 can do it stock but not quiet the same(power goes thru side gear in centre diff) )
The 700 to rover conversion leaves the front shaft running pretty close to the box .
Rover transfer would be 1.7 of the weight of the gq i reckon.
So if i do the same sort of thing again will be gq or crus depending on diff offset.
Just some thoughts

The non computer 700 is good from both ends , gives a 3.06 1st gear
you can wire the converter to lock up via a switch , and if you do end up registering the beast this box gives you a .700 overdrive
Shift kits Normaly add higher hydraulic pressure on the clutch packs , preventing slip = reduction in heat ,only negative is they tend to raise the RPM for gear changes and shift much harder. With lower gearing all this is magnified . so you will get HARD shifts especially in low range with a trailing throttle.
Keep it Cool keeps it together.
It all equals a huge range of gearing , Gq transfer i havn,t had any thing to do with them , but i have looked at the cost of doing one ,
Marks does a TH700 to gq transfer for $1000 and a set of 3.73 transfer gears for around $1300-1400 ,
Thats around 50-1 with 4,11 diffs add the converter ratio probly 70-1
Lets face it most stuff in comps now isn,t exactley rock crawling more like rock smashing you need the ability to achieve quick momentum.
so 100 plus to one crawl ratios are they really needed .
You get close to the same gearing using the stock rover transfer ,sam or tony can convert a rover for front digs i think, (lt230 can do it stock but not quiet the same(power goes thru side gear in centre diff) )
The 700 to rover conversion leaves the front shaft running pretty close to the box .
Rover transfer would be 1.7 of the weight of the gq i reckon.
So if i do the same sort of thing again will be gq or crus depending on diff offset.
Just some thoughts

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