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NG Pajero or Landcruiser 60?

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NG Pajero or Landcruiser 60?

Post by Sammyboy »

Hi all. Please don't tell me to do a search on this topic, because this is an issue that has affected me over the past few months and is one that is very close to my heart.

My grandfather died on the 1st of June. He was a person that was very close to my heart. He was my everything.

Grandpop bought a Landcruiser HJ62 (4.0 2H TD, Auto) brand new in 1986. It's only done 231,000 but it's got rust in the gutters and some other places (as many 60's do), hasn't been serviced for 3 years (or 20,000km), but still starts first time every time. It's not really being used and has been gathering rust in my grandparents driveway for the past 5 or so years. It desperately needs new tyres, new suspension, probably new injectors, rust removal and paint job, a huge service, and a good tune up. It's probably minimum $5000 or max $10,000, but my Grandpop's car would be free to me.

I currently drive a 1990 NG Pajero (2.5 4D56 TD intercooled, 5spd man) which I have owned for 2 years now. It has done 477,000km, but has everything I need, eg upgraded suspension, shocks, exhaust, turbo, stereo, tyres, etc, etc...

We all know that the Landcruiser is the more valued/more capable 4WD of the two, but the Paj is more economical and has got me everywhere that I need to drive + more.

Do I take on Grandpop's Landcruiser 60, sell my Paj and spend $5,000 to $10,000 on the ultimate touring machine, or do I keep my Paj which hasn't let me down and has most of the mods that I need (I do need to spend up to $2,500 for long range tank, new shockers and good dyno tune)

I would be interested to hear your thoughts. Any feedback would be greatly apprieciated during these difficult times :cry:
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by thehanko »

depends on which car you would rather have.

the 60 will be bigger and more capable offroad - once all mods are equal.

the paj will driver better and doesnt need much work.

does the paj fail you in any way now?

the paj has done alot of k's which would be my only concern with it.

The 60, suspension can be cheap, shocks can be cheap (by shoping around a bit second hand) ther service can be done mostly yourself and for a few hundred have all new oils, hoses belts etc, and tyres for a grand. then look into injectores etc, but your only talking 2 - 2.5k to get it running well on GOOD rubber.

the rust would be the biggest if for me. and i would get a quote done on that first, as it might be prohibitive. but a 60 is never going to be worth a heap of money so watch it being a money pit.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
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Post by Sammyboy »

Thank you for your reply. When I said $5,000 to $10,000 I was including body repair and new paint too, as well as including the un-necessary additions such as bigger exhaust, dyno tune, headlight upgrades, spotlights, long range fuel tank, snorkel, stereo, speakers and UHF radio. Maybe even a diff lock or two if money permitted.

The Paj has given me no grief in the 2.5 years that I have owned it and has got me everywhere I need to go and then home again. To 'complete' the Paj, I want to fit new (bigger) shockers, long range fuel tank and take it back to get dyno tuned and new injectors, which would all come in at under $3000. The engine in the Paj (which was fitted at my request) has probably done around 200-250k.

I know that neither of them will last forver, but I think the 60 may last a bit longer than the Paj (how many 2H's can you find that have done just 231k), but the Paj ISN'T something that i'm in a hurry to get rid of, but then again, the 60 has been owned by my grandfather right since day 1, and it's a piece of him that I would like to remember forever. Basically it's a win/win or lose/lose situation so that's why I want to hear what others think.
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by Wambat »

if its factory turbo it isnt a 2h, it is a 12ht, and they are an absolute gun of a motor, if i was in your position mate i would take the car, no one for the sentimental value, no two for the experience of cleaning something up that you love to bits and again has the sentimental value to make you want to clean it up, and 3 for something that has one of the best motors made buy Toyota.

although i am biased, i love the 60s and had one powered buy a 12ht, it was a very good motor.
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Post by Wambat »

also if you can get the 60 for nix as it is a family members car, if you have some where to store it, i would just do it over time, as that is the best way, and keep the paj, thats the best of both worlds
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Post by chunks »

Its an easy choice for me, 60 all the way! They are built like a brick shithouse, and if you need parts you should be able to get them anywhere. I'd be selling the Pajero and fixing up the 60.
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Post by Patroler »

My grandfather died on the 1st of June. He was a person that was very close to my heart. He was my everything.
The fact that you've included this in your post says to me that you are emotionally attached to the 60, get it!, a bit of rust isn't the end of the world, you could keep the paj for round town use and use the 60 for touring and weekends.
If you aren't financially inclined to pay 2 regos then just sell the paj, thing is you can get another pajero, but you'll regret it if this 60 goes to somebody else, also a 60 with the td engine is a pretty good car - get it and service it.
What would i know though i'm pretty sentimental :P
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
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Post by Sammyboy »

OK! A few months have past and this question is still playing on my mind a lot. I am now going to attempt to upload some of my photos from photobucket to show you what i've got...

Paj Skytrek 2008: http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... kytrek.jpg

Paj 2009: http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... t=Paj2.jpg

HJ62 side: http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... =HJ621.jpg

HJ62 front: http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... =HJ622.jpg

HJ62 rust: http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... 62rust.jpg

I hope the pictures work!
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by GeneralFubashi »

Just swap everything from the pajero to the cruiser, including you wheels and tyres, stereo, spotlights etc. Or at least imagine both cars stock standard with no modification, then choose between them. The roof rust does look quite bad, but once it starts there, to a point it doesnt really matter how bad it is, it will require the same big job to fix it. At least its bad enough that you have to factor it into your decision now, rather than putting it off, and having to deal with it later.
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Post by Sixty's Guy »

What a dilemma! Paj looks very neat. That 60 (60 or 61, not a 62) is really sagged too. Rust looks pretty bad. I say get a quote to get the rust cut out and go from there.
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1983 HJ60 - 2" OME springs, Bilstein shocks, 2" Bodylift, 35" BFG MT, Twin Lock Rights, Longfields, Denco Turbo, Ironman Winch
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Post by 4bdan »

I think that from you have said about the 60, it has too much sentimental meaning for you to let it go.

The Pajero looks like a good set-up rig, but imagine how good the 60 will be after 5-10k thrown at it.

The best part is that the 60 will end up being heaps more capable and most of it will be brand new.

Rust is Rust, the pajero's aren't much better when it comes to attracting rust either. The 60 will look fantastic with a new coat of paint/some decent lift and chunky tyres.

At least you will always have that peice of your grandfather too, I can imagine it would break your heart to see someone else taking the 60 away...

Good luck whatever choice you make mate.
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Post by steve.j »

Mate, sometimes in life you have to just lead from the heart and not try to rationalise your decision on cost etc.
Personally, i'd grab the cruiser, do the work it needs and grandpop lives on and gets to join you on all your adventures !
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Post by Sammyboy »

If I am to keep the cruiser I would need around $8500 for suspension ($1500), decent tyres + new rims ($1500+), rust removed and painted ($3500), service (about $1000 or $500+ if I do it myself), plus new exhaust and dyno tune as well as very minor turbo work wouldn't hurt to improve the fuel economy on longer trips. I do love this 4WD and know that if I was to inherit it from my family, I could make it last for many decades to come, after all it is a TOYOTA, fitted with arguably their best diesel engine ever (12HT)!
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by Sammyboy »

...However, that $8500 price tag doesn't include the snorkel, duel battery setup, UHF, stereo and speakers (which i'd prefer new) and the long range fuel tank (or even long range + aftermarket auxilliary tank= 220 litres)
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
Posts: 249
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:16 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sammyboy »

Then there's 'Paj'. I really don't want to get rid of it coz it hasn't let me down (contrary to my previous two 4WD's). It's done over 480,000km (engine was replaced when I bought it) and it can comfortably sit on 8.5l/100km on a trip down the highway, however it doesn't really like to sit on anything above 100kmh, unlike the 60, so generally cruises on 95kmh (or 2800rpm). Everywhere I've gone in this country, Paj has gone too and hasn't failed me. What Paj now needs before our next trip is new shock absorbers ($650 fitted), 145l long range fuel tank ($1100 to $1200 fitted) and quite possibly new fuel injectors (they haven't been done since 2005) and a dyno tune (which is $700+ for injectors and tune up, or $300 if my injectors don't need touching). After I have spent that $2600 on Paj, I can possibly say that my 4WD build up is finished!

Taking on the 60 means that I would have to get rid of Paj, which i'm not keen to do (although I really would love to have the 60), it's a great car and is cheap to run.

Here's a picture of my 2nd 4WD (or my girlfriends, which I built for her) and getting rid of this one is definitely not an option! I love driving this one, and pretty much every spare part I need for it I have, ranging from the back to to the engine.

'Tugboat' http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt18 ... 62rrrr.jpg

PS- Tugboat earned his name by snatching my old NA Paj out of a huge boghole whilst it's interior was submerged in water (the old Paj that is!)
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by thehanko »

can you keep your paj, and get the 60, then instead of saying i need 10k to spend on the 60 right now... just do it as you have the coin? that way you can do more of the work yourself and learn some new stuff, saves some of the money and best of both worlds. but longer term goal which is what it sounds like you want the 60 to be - long term.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
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Post by shortyq »

or you could build yourself the ultimate winch challenge truck
hand the plates in, start choppin son!
8500 for suspension thats insane!
or is that scratch built front/rear?
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Post by thehanko »

shortyq wrote:or you could build yourself the ultimate winch challenge truck
hand the plates in, start choppin son!
8500 for suspension thats insane!
or is that scratch built front/rear?
I would need around $8500, for suspension ($1500),


I think he was missing a comma in there.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
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Post by Sammyboy »

shortyq wrote:8500 for suspension thats insane!
No way! $8500 for everything! It'd probably set me back $1000 to $1500 for suspension.
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by chimpboy »

Sorry to hear about your grandpop Sam.

I have to say that I would sell the Paj and take on the Toyo. It sounds like you've got the pros and cons pretty clear in your mind so you will probably make a good decision.
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Post by CanberraMav »

I would look at buying another 60 series with everything your after on it. Strip it dow for the parts you need ie: suspension, shocks etc and part out the rest to recover some costs.

Would be the cheaper option it would imagine. You could also cut the metal out of the donor car to replace the rust
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Post by Ice »

weigh up the $$ involved and then consider and 80 series. they are getting a lot cheaper all the time and having owned both 60 and 80 i know what id prefer to be driving


put the 60 in storage if you want and keep it for a project to restore, if you wheel it and then damage the heart ache will be there too
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Post by nabstud »

I reckon keep the Paj. It is modded how you want it and does everything you need it to. Sounds like it has some sentimental value itself. It sounds like the 60 will be a step backwards for what you are doing in regards to fuel economy and comfort.

If you get the 60, I would be inclined to do it up as a long term project as others have suggested, provided you have the room.

In the end, it is still just a car. I know it has sentimental value but you will no doubt update from that in x amount of years as all cars have an expiry date, especially when used off road. Can you see yourself driving it in 20 years?
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Post by shortyq »

Sammyboy wrote:
shortyq wrote:8500 for suspension thats insane!
No way! $8500 for everything! It'd probably set me back $1000 to $1500 for suspension.
im glad to read that!
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Post by Loanrangie »

Get the 60 and swap the running gear into a better shell along with the trim and then it will be basically the same vehicle.
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Post by 4bdan »

Alright, you have convinced me. Give me the 60 and you can keep the paj... ;) ;) ;)
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Post by Sammyboy »

4bdan wrote:Alright, you have convinced me. Give me the 60 and you can keep the paj... ;) ;) ;)
lol, it's not mine to give away (yet) :roll:
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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Post by Sammyboy »

Well i'm still driving the 60 every day, my partner's Holden Drover is still at the panel shop getting a minor touch up so she get's my Paj! I had the 60 serviced for the first time in over 3 years last week. I knew that it needed work, but didn't think that it needed this much work! My mechanic give me a service record with 22 job required for it. They range from rust ($3500+), suspension ($1500), tyres ($1500), turbo, rear main seal, etc, etc. What I have decided to do is leave the 60 :cry: , keep the Paj til it dies, find a donor vehicle (60 or even 75 series troopy) that has a good body but mechanically not good, and put the 12HT and other stuff in the better bodied car... Even if I was to find a decent donor car soonish, I can get it and store it until I am ready to upgrade... Thanks for all your advice guys!
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.

1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
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60

Post by DR Frankenstine »

60 all the way
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Post by Shadow »

suspension $1500?

So youve got broken leaves? Or you want new suspension? Or your mechanic is having a go at you. Or he doesnt actually want the job.
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