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spring mounts
spring mounts
can you extend the mounts on the chassis ? not the shackel end the other?
cheers damo
cheers damo
Yes, you can.. But...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
how does extending the shackle allow the spring to flex 'better'?Ruffy wrote:Yes, you can.. But...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
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CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
I think he means if he drops the spring mount and shackle mounts down there will be more room between diff and bump stop better up flex but same down flexjoeblow wrote:how does extending the shackle allow the spring to flex 'better'?Ruffy wrote:Yes, you can.. But...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
current truck, 105 series GXL diesel 6" springs & twin pro lockers
sierra LWB spoa one wide track diffs twin locked
Sierra Parts Wanted pm me
sierra LWB spoa one wide track diffs twin locked
Sierra Parts Wanted pm me
Yes, do both. If you just extend one end then you alter the caster, doing both will help retain correct caster angle.easeupturbo wrote:was gunna do both 2'' shackel and 1-2 '' out the back with extra bracing welded in , she's a pure off tracker
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
Why is the sky blue?joeblow wrote:how does extending the shackle allow the spring to flex 'better'?Ruffy wrote:Yes, you can.. But...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
Some one want to explain this a little more.
Assume rear diff, is that right?
You are going to move the shackle mount back is that right. Or are you moving the fixed end of the spring back.
Any time you move the spring mounts it'll stuff with your shackle angle which can make it ride really roung if the shackle is too vertical. If your moving the mounts it sounds like you're going to need longer leaves.
Assume rear diff, is that right?
You are going to move the shackle mount back is that right. Or are you moving the fixed end of the spring back.
Any time you move the spring mounts it'll stuff with your shackle angle which can make it ride really roung if the shackle is too vertical. If your moving the mounts it sounds like you're going to need longer leaves.
;)
Master of my own domain
The sun produces white light, which is made up of light of all colours: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet - these are the colours you find in a rainbow. Light is a wave and each of these colours corresponds to a different frequency, and therefore wavelength, of light.Ruffy wrote:Why is the sky blue?joeblow wrote:how does extending the shackle allow the spring to flex 'better'?Ruffy wrote:Yes, you can.. But...
Extending the shackle will allow the leaf to flex better so you get the lift advantage as well as flex...
When the white light from the sun shines through the Earth's atmosphere, it collides with gas molecules. It is these molecules that scatter the light. Blue light has a high frequency, and it is scattered ten times more than red light.
Hence, Blue sky....
easeupturbo wrote:where the fixed point of the springs is i was wanting to cut off and space down another 1 or 2 '' and then put 2'' extended shackels on
Now that makes more sense.
I would not do that, I dont see any good reason. If you are aiming for lift, buy some lifted springs. If you want to correct the caster from the extended shackles, get caster wedges or rotate the perches on the axles.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
dont bother spacing it down at all. if anything, move it back along the rail and fit a longer leaf. that will help gain more flex, pending what leafs you select, wont affect your approch, and make it ride lots nicer.easeupturbo wrote:where the fixed point of the springs is i was wanting to cut off and space down another 1 or 2 '' and then put 2'' extended shackels on
michael
Master of my own domain
But dont flatter springs give better flex than lifted (therefore more arched) springsHighway-Star wrote:easeupturbo wrote:where the fixed point of the springs is i was wanting to cut off and space down another 1 or 2 '' and then put 2'' extended shackels on
Now that makes more sense.
I would not do that, I dont see any good reason. If you are aiming for lift, buy some lifted springs. If you want to correct the caster from the extended shackles, get caster wedges or rotate the perches on the axles.
mike_nofx wrote:But dont flatter springs give better flex than lifted (therefore more arched) springsHighway-Star wrote:easeupturbo wrote:where the fixed point of the springs is i was wanting to cut off and space down another 1 or 2 '' and then put 2'' extended shackels on
Now that makes more sense.
I would not do that, I dont see any good reason. If you are aiming for lift, buy some lifted springs. If you want to correct the caster from the extended shackles, get caster wedges or rotate the perches on the axles.
Potentially better droop, yes. But honestly how much arch are you going to put in the spring, and how much flex do you want out of it?
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
i just wanna do a cheap lift at the moment to fit 31 then when i get the money do a spring over , i'm going to put a body lift in soon , the hole car costed me $200 and i don't wanna spend the money on a car that might not last this winter cause i thrash the living shit out of it , if it lasts the winter then it'll go in the shed and will get all the proper things done to it ,
easeupturbo wrote:i just wanna do a cheap lift at the moment to fit 31 then when i get the money do a spring over , i'm going to put a body lift in soon , the hole car costed me $200 and i don't wanna spend the money on a car that might not last this winter cause i thrash the living shit out of it , if it lasts the winter then it'll go in the shed and will get all the proper things done to it ,
Just to fit the 31s, do the body lift, it is the cheapest way, you will still probably need to hammer flat the wheel arch seams, and maybe move the front axle forward a little bit (Search for more info). Also the body lift should be reversable, your idea of lifting perches could be undone but would be a hell of allot more work. If you are planning SPOA then you want to be able to remove all other forms of lift when you do that.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
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easeupturbo wrote:i just wanna do a cheap lift at the moment to fit 31 then when i get the money do a spring over , i'm going to put a body lift in soon , the hole car costed me $200 and i don't wanna spend the money on a car that might not last this winter cause i thrash the living shit out of it , if it lasts the winter then it'll go in the shed and will get all the proper things done to it ,
If your planning a SPOA - forget a body lift, especially for 31's.
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