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well i got the diffs back in today, and its a LOT higher then before...like...its massive..... still gotta work out what to do with the steering arm (doesnt go through the springs),
tomorrow im gonna take the 9" grinder to it and cut the shit out of the guards and anything else i dont need.
sorry i didnt get bugger all photos caus of the weather but here is a couple of shitty ones just so u get the idea...
tomorrow ill bring it out next to the cruiser for a comparison
atm they are open, but i will be welding the rear, and i dunno about the front..thinking about welding the front as well, but dont know if its gonna be practical offroad with a welded front diff....not to mention strain on the front cv's and axles
need to widen the wheel track a bit more with spacers as well
one thing i need to do is increase flex.
i been looking at 3/4 elliptical, scissor shackles and a few things but i dunno what to do
if anybody has and opinions on how to get the leafs to flex more please share
im not doing the coil conversion and rover diffs till next year
I just finished helping my mate do the same thing with his zuk.
What we found after a lot of playing around was to run only 2 leaves in the pack and set the spring so it is flat.
You already have plenty of hight with the SPOA and when the spring is flat it will let the wheel travel down heaps more. It also felt better on the road. Also run longer shocks. the last thing we done was drop shackles but they dont open all the way as where at the limit with the shocks he got.
im running 37" simes extreme trekker 2's (centerpedes)
on landcruiser 16" rims, no spacers yet but im making up some spacers to make the track as wide as possible
and yeh.....now after lots of experimentation etc im gonna run only 2 leafs in each pack, and scissor shackles on the rear...
test this weekend to see how it goes with the revised suspension
Cheers, I was hoping you had found some stock spring that would work easily. I think Jav on here has used the same starting point for a Scat project he has.
Steve
this brings back so many good memories,, looks like your having fun,
keep up the good work & reports.
cheers piglet.
DAIHATSU FEROZA UTE,V6,caged,lokd 35's
NOW SOLD
& then
GQ DUAL CAB TUFF UTE,caged,lokd,35's
NOW SOLD
& then
JK WRANGLER 4 DOOR TUFF TOURER,lifted,lokd, 35s
im still working on it..ahahaha... i havnt been able to find my bloody card adaptor..... ill have to buy a new one and throw up some pictures for your viewing pleasure...give me a few days guys
yeh i know it would have been better... but its all aobut trial and error. me and my old boy are tyring something a little different...and with the right combination of components it shouldnt be too bad..
the front is uber stiff anyway..the coils are almost ontop of the hubs. will see...
if controlling the rear diff is gonna be that hard with the coils that close then ill move them..not a great drama:P...
Your rear coils are located in an almost identical position to those on the BBM Scat Attack truck that was detailed 4wd monthly ( http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=24742 ), i think if you read all the way through that thread the general conclusion was that they would have been better mounted outboard of the chassis rails.
lol i know all of this..im idolising the bbm scat...ahahahaaha..... BUT
untill ive finished what im doing....dont judge.....caus i do have a few tricks up my sleeve.
my old man is very vyer good at what he does.....thats y hes payed the big bucks and im not...LOL.... when ive done the rest in the rear ill update and report
