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GQ STAINLESS STEEL SNORKAL

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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GQ STAINLESS STEEL SNORKAL

Post by DANIEL.LUX »

Gday guys im after a stainless steel snorkal for a gq 3litre were can i get these from and how much.? and are they much more $$ than the plastic snorkles thanks daniel.
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Re: GQ STAINLESS STEEL SNORKAL

Post by rabs »

DANIEL.LUX wrote:Gday guys im after a stainless steel snorkal for a gq 3litre were can i get these from and how much.? and are they much more $$ than the plastic snorkles thanks daniel.
best bet to ring a exhaust shop. my dad got quoted i think it was 220 for a stainless 3 inch mandrel bent snorkel to be made to suit.
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Post by msjc38 »

google millweld he sells them & they look good
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Post by gq351 »

the 4'' inch stainless steel will cost about $80 bucks for 2mts from a steel place in settelment rd melbourne, (sorry cant think of the name)
& the 4'' inch rubber angles are $30 bucks each from coburg truck parts,
then you just need a few stainless bolts & the rubber pipe to the
air cleaner..
if you do it yourself it wont cost u much at all, alot cheaper than the
safari snorkels & look tougher too.
GQ patrol '454' Big Block Chevy 7''lift 37'' muddies & heaps more...
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Post by GUpatrol02 »

is it easy enough to adapt a stainless snorkel to a gu airbox or do you need a new airbox also apart from the looks are there any differences between a stainless snorkel and a safari snorkel?
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Post by pedrok5000 »

These may help

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY3.pdf

and

http://www.millweld.com/?stg=41

Something you may also be able to do is get a air fillter adapter for your model from TJM or Safari (I just got one off nissan for the TJM snorkle). You could then use that as the connection between yours and the air intake.

Safari parts are at:
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/snorkel/ss ... hf-vpc.htm
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Post by tanz-e »

has anyone got a photo of theres? (close up)
wats the best method of attaching to the pillar?
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Post by its aford not a nissan »

tanz-e wrote:has anyone got a photo of theres? (close up)
wats the best method of attaching to the pillar?
not stainless and not real close but all the same
and to attatch to the pillar i used the connection/ plastic plugs from the safari snorkle previously fitted

Image
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Post by UrbanRedneck »

this is mine
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Image

It is 4" to the guard then is blanked off in the shape of the guard. Then goes in as 3" to the original air box (modified to suit) this is so i could just cut 3 and a bit inch hole in the guard.

It is attached with a little tab bolted through the guard about 200 back from front elbow and has a bracket with 3 screws into the pillar.

This is one i made for mates comp truck (which went up in the bush fires) but still usable even after 2 roll overs :armsup:
Image

can be made for modest fee
Cheers Damo
have grinder will fit
www.4Bfabrications.com.au
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Post by GU-ish »

yours looks good with the weld showing, never seen it done like that but always wondered wat it would look like.
looks sweet
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Post by money_killer »

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Post by InSanE »

this is how i did mine i just bent a piece of flat steal to the shape i needed and attached it to the snorkel with stainless rivets and screwed it into the A pillar

Image

Image
GQ LWB TD42, boost, lockers etc

http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
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Post by hjgq »

sorry no pics but I welded a plate on that sits behind the electric mirror that srcews on to the pillar, you cann't even see it unless you look hard. again sorry no pics
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Post by Weiner »

Brothers, it wasn't cheap though.

He didn't want it to come in right at the front of the guard, dunno if it cost more cause of it.

Image

Image
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
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Post by Jake GQ.. »

i made mine out of three inch stainless it costy about $50 a meter you need about 2.5 from memory and used rubber bends 2x 25 degre and 1 90 degre. the best thing is that the three inch is extremely easy to adapt to the standard air intake you just need to take out the plastic air intake that is located inside the gard and use a pice of pipe to join the snorkel to the origional intak. this way you keep the air intake standard witch in my apionin standard is best. good luck and i got away with it for about $200 which i think is prity good cocidering a PLASTIC safari is about $450
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Post by Jake GQ.. »

just remembered get on mudrhino.com.au it has a diy one
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Post by waandy »

im doing a 4 inch stainless snorkel for my shorty soon. had ta order the bends on friday and they are about 30 bucks a bend and the stainless shouldnt be to far away. you dnt have to use stainless, if u wanted to use 100mm pvc and paint it no one would ever know, or even mild steel as long as u paint inside aswell as out. i did a 3 inch snorkel for my zook with welded mandrel bends, come up awesome but didnt have to pay for stainless. dear shite if u gota pay 4 it
85 hi top drover, 31s, 2 inch exended shackles 2 inch bl.
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Post by Funky »

This is my one.

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91 mavrick, 33" muddies, 3" sus, 2" body, crawler gears, dual batteries, winch.
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snorkel

Post by morewheeldrive »

you can make one cheaper than buying one. I made mine from 4 inch alloy pipe. 100 bucks cheaper per metre than stainless and lighter just get some rubber bends from a truck parts shop and cut your holes etc.
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Post by InSanE »

I dont know what your talking about mate i payed $80 for 2 meters of polishes stainless from Tubesales in Thomastown, Vic
GQ LWB TD42, boost, lockers etc

http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
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Post by UrbanRedneck »

I agree man they seen you comin if thats what they wanted you ta pay.
I could get half a length for what you reckon you could save.
have grinder will fit
www.4Bfabrications.com.au
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stainless snorkel

Post by shanus05 »

yeah same here, only paid $80 something from thomastown as well. bends from coburg truck parts on sydney rd.
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Post by easeupturbo »

all up about $230 and got some 4'' exaust tube and welded it to the filter box and used some spring lined flexi hose , it's attached to the piller with a stainless pltae thats welded on and 3 screws it hits shit all the time without any hassel

Image
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Post by skip-unstuck »

Or you could just buy this one, 3" S/S Welded, Only need 1 x 3" Rubber bend to join straight into the airbox, Can be in Mornington.
PM me if your keen.

Image
Do it!!
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Post by love ke70 »

so who had run a fully air tight snorkal to the fully air tight airbox, to the fully air tight turbo?

ive considered doing it, and will, when i get time, to make my own, and make it air tight all the way through, but the issue is, what about when rain goes down the spout or a big mud puddle and you launch a flood of water down the snorkel, where does it come out?

i considered having a drain in the lowest point that gets left out, but that seems fiddly, dont want the factory air intake setup with the cyclonic box at the gaurd with a big hole in the bottom, so not entirely sure whether the plug in the lowest point is the best idea or not?
at the moment running no snorkel so i know i can run water to top of motor and no further, seems better than the factory airbox inside the gaurd which is much lower...

cheers, andy
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by Weiner »

love ke70 wrote:so who had run a fully air tight snorkal to the fully air tight airbox, to the fully air tight turbo?

ive considered doing it, and will, when i get time, to make my own, and make it air tight all the way through, but the issue is, what about when rain goes down the spout or a big mud puddle and you launch a flood of water down the snorkel, where does it come out?

i considered having a drain in the lowest point that gets left out, but that seems fiddly, dont want the factory air intake setup with the cyclonic box at the gaurd with a big hole in the bottom, so not entirely sure whether the plug in the lowest point is the best idea or not?
at the moment running no snorkel so i know i can run water to top of motor and no further, seems better than the factory airbox inside the gaurd which is much lower...

cheers, andy
One way valve at the bottom?
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
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Post by love ke70 »

where and how? there would be no force to push the water out, and constant suction til you turn the motor off, so the water would not drain?
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2006 6:04 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Weiner »

love ke70 wrote:where and how? there would be no force to push the water out, and constant suction til you turn the motor off, so the water would not drain?
My Hilux doesn't have a pre filter, so I don't know whater would go then.

The brothers up the page goes straight to the filter, and he hasn't had any problems......yet.

Will see if he can put up a under bonnet shot.
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
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Post by love ke70 »

that would be good if you could :)
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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Post by vanbox »

twin 3" on my GQ

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