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hey all. today i fitted a boost tee to my troll and when i removed the rubber hoses from the actuator i noticed oil in the lines so im guessing i'll be up for a new turbo soon. Either way id still like to know some answers to a few questions.....
what is the standard turbine unit that Nissan put on???
Is there an upgrade available without replacing manifolds???
I dont want a massive turbo just maybe a slightly bigger unit, possibly a ball bearing one. any pro's or cons?
Please keep in mind that im on a budget as i just purchased my first home and i have around $1000.00.
thank you people, your help is sincerely appreciated.
Also keep your smart arse sarcastic comments to yourselves. i don't know much about these things and would like to learn. I dont need some keyboard warrior tuff guy who thinks he knows it all giving me S#@t because i don't know the answers to my questions as they might be really simple. i have had a post before that got ruined by a few people that had nothing better to do; who just simply took the piss out of me because i asked a question. thank you
give Joel from PGS a call he is a bit of a wiz with the turbo. As is Andy from diesetech both of them will point you the right way. but Chis is a bit closer to you
chris (giantracing) 0438279890
(patrol specialist)
the diesel shop
3/34 tradelink rd hillcrest
ph...38008236
any of these guy will help you out
steve
http://stores.ebay.com.au/HIDRUS-LIGHTING
www.hidrus.com.au
For all your HID and Driving Light needs. (Specializing in Hella & Custom builds)
CCDA VP AND MARSHALL TRAINER
trade enquiries welcome
20sic wrote:Please keep in mind that im on a budget as i just purchased my first home and i have around $1000.00.
You arent going to get any form of aftermarket turbo setup for that money. You will get a used Stock GU 4.2 Turbo from someone who has done the upgrade.
Also keep your smart arse sarcastic comments to yourselves
If it is the factory fitted turbo then it will be a Hitachi turbo I think the model is a HT 12 , The manifold flange is a T3 pattern.
If you only have a budget of $1000 you won't get much in the way of a new turbo. Do you already have an exhaust and upgraded dump pipe?
I think for $1000 you will only be able to get your standard turbo rebuilt and maybe a upgraded dump pipe, thats if you do the fitting yourself.
If the budget could stretch a bit further to around $2000 ish and you can do the work yourself you could look at fitting a ball bearing turbo to it, you would have to use a flange adapter to change back to the T25 manifold flange, as the sizing of there turbos is most suited to the TD42. You would also need to make up your own dump pipe and modify the oil and water lines to suit.
LUX90 wrote:If it is the factory fitted turbo then it will be a Hitachi turbo I think the model is a HT 12 , The manifold flange is a T3 pattern.
If you only have a budget of $1000 you won't get much in the way of a new turbo. Do you already have an exhaust and upgraded dump pipe?
I think for $1000 you will only be able to get your standard turbo rebuilt and maybe a upgraded dump pipe, thats if you do the fitting yourself.
If the budget could stretch a bit further to around $2000 ish and you can do the work yourself you could look at fitting a ball bearing turbo to it, you would have to use a flange adapter to change back to the T25 manifold flange, as the sizing of there turbos is most suited to the TD42. You would also need to make up your own dump pipe and modify the oil and water lines to suit.
Hope this helps you out a bit more
i thought it would be a garrett unit considering every other nissan turbo seems to be garrett maybe wrong..
you could always get a garrett gt2860 ball bearing turbo cost about 1300 bux off fleabay.. dont no the bolt patterns on the std nissan manifold but you could get an adaptor cheap..
Also keep your smart arse sarcastic comments to yourselves
tissues?[/quote]
and theres the smart arse comment
Just got a second hand G28 recently off a silvia off ichiban imports in Sydney. Great mob to deal with and cost me about 600 and had done 40 000ks. You will need an adapter to make it fit. By the time you add the adapter and pay someone to modify the dump pipe you should be right on budget.
its pretty common to see oil in the inlet system of them , how much is a different story. every time a paying customer sees there machine with the inlet pipework off they nearly have a heart attack but its just normal operation. pics might be a help?
Beep. Beep. Beep.. Whats that sound? Oh Look Its Just Another ZD30 On A Tow Truck.. =)
What torque? Tighten it till it strips and then back it off half a turn.
I'd save your coin and buy a bolt-on upgrade kit from either Andy or Joel. They can freight to you know problems, and are good for after sale service/problems. These two guys are very prompt with their service, and are highly recommended throughout the 4x4 industry.
last time I spoke to you sebo you were ranting about making more power than mine. Now you worried about the turbo? Sounds like I got nothin to worry about. LOL.
MY brand new GT28 blows oil into the intake a bit. Not real sure if thats normal or not. I'm over it! I was told they were an upgrade for the standard GU. I could be wrong tho, I not overly clued up on this sort of stuff. Check with Paul at Chapmans mate. He sourced all my stuff and I found him pretty helpfull.
DanwinGQ wrote:MY brand new GT28 blows oil into the intake a bit. Not real sure if thats normal or not. I'm over it! I was told they were an upgrade for the standard GU. I could be wrong tho, I not overly clued up on this sort of stuff.
Are you sure its not just blow-by from the PCV pipe??
coxy321 wrote:I'd save your coin and buy a bolt-on upgrade kit from either Andy or Joel. They can freight to you know problems, and are good for after sale service/problems. These two guys are very prompt with their service, and are highly recommended throughout the 4x4 industry.
DanwinGQ wrote:This may be a dumb question but what is a PCV pipe?
Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This pipe ventilates blow-by (gases that escape past the piston/rings) and oil vapour in the engine crankcase and recirculates it back into your intake system to be "re-used" (more-or-less as fuel) as opposed to being a) ventilated to atmostphere; b) dumped on the ground.
Diesels are noticably worse for blow-by than equivalent petrols, and this can cause all sorts of issues - mainly for turbocharged diesels. Residue/vapour in your intake from the PCV can condense and run into your turbo compressor, thus making it appear that you have a leaking turbo seal (this actually happens on my car), the condensate can also block intercoolers (GU ZD30 & TD42Ti off the top of my head), and clog electronic sensors which can lead to a premature and dramatic end to your diesel engine.
The best way to combat blow-by is by fitting an oil catch can, which traps the oil vapour and lets it condense, then you put the oil back into your sump. But take caution - you must use an appropriate catch can. Generally, off the shelf/eBay/retail units wont do the job as they can't pass through the volume of gases that a diesel produces. Do a search - catch cans have been covered on here quite well.
OK, thanks for spelling it out for me coxy321. I thought that may have been the problem. I was originally running the breather back into the air intake before the turbo for legal reasons. When i noticed the problem I fitted a drift oil catch can I got from autobarn. It still seemed to be happening. I then changed it again. Instead of feeding it from catch can to air intake it now runs from catch can into a small pod filter and vents into atmosphere. It smokes out of pod filter a bit after a good flogging but I still seem to have some oil that sits in the air intake. Mainly at the low points either side of the fins in the cooler barrel.
Any thoughts??
Turbo is brand new garrett GT28. I wouldnt have thought it should do this.
Since you installed a blowby solution (catch can/external venting) have you pulled all of your intake piping off and cleaned the insides? It could be old oil still sitting around in there.
What i would do:
- Remove all intake plumbing and clean
- Clean intake throat of turbo (just wipe it with a cloth and some brake cleaner)
- Clean turbo compressor outlet
After doing this, drive the car for a week as per normal (throw in 1-2 hard drives [not HDD's]). After this, remove the intake and outlet pipe off the turbo. If there's oil on the turbo compressor outlet and not on the intake, it means you have a leaking seal.
Thats a fair call. It is only a weekend and holiday car now and finding the time to clean it all up could be a problem. However it is something I need to get to asap.
Thanks for the advise.
LOL.
