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LS2 into an 80 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
LS2 into an 80 series
I recently acquired an ls2 for replacement of the old 1FZ and have been having difficulty finding any information on this conversion. i understand that an ls1 and 454 made there way into an 80 but nothing as yet concerning an ls2.
To date i have found i will need to move the bellhousing/engine interface forward by 60-70mm and the transmission will also need to be moved forward requiring modification of the cross member and drive shafts.
Dellows automotive dont do a bellhousing for this combination and the marks kit is unsatisfactory. does anyone know of a company making one (foreign or domestic)?
The biggest hurdle for me in this conversion is the engine/gearbox coupling worst case will mean i have to make one, any info will be greatly appreciated regarding this.
Updates on progress will be posted in this thread for future reference.
Kind regards - Dave.
To date i have found i will need to move the bellhousing/engine interface forward by 60-70mm and the transmission will also need to be moved forward requiring modification of the cross member and drive shafts.
Dellows automotive dont do a bellhousing for this combination and the marks kit is unsatisfactory. does anyone know of a company making one (foreign or domestic)?
The biggest hurdle for me in this conversion is the engine/gearbox coupling worst case will mean i have to make one, any info will be greatly appreciated regarding this.
Updates on progress will be posted in this thread for future reference.
Kind regards - Dave.
loose as a goose
LS2 has been fitted to an 80 series Offroad race car here in WA, dont know how it was done http://www.flatoutoffroadracing.com/ get in touch with Frank via his website, he might be able to help you out and answer some questions
i understand that M.A.'s are in the business of making money and i wish them well however, to purchase the gear from them costs a LOT of money - i was hoping to do the whole conversion for <10k. their product may be very good but its going to cost more than the car is worth. are they really the only people around modifying the 80 for this engine?
i sent a message to flatout, currently waiting for a response.
i am keen to hear anybody's thoughts on this topic, criticism is good
cheers - dave.
i sent a message to flatout, currently waiting for a response.
i am keen to hear anybody's thoughts on this topic, criticism is good
cheers - dave.
loose as a goose
When i did mine i used the marks adapter for the transfer case (i used the 4l60e auto) And made my own mounts for the engine, alternator stayed in stock location, AC comp had 5mm shaved off the mounts and it all just clears with the engine 10mm off centre towards passenger side. I alo use commodore thermo fans instaed of the mechanical one. Make my own wiring loom's (which are 99.5% plug in)
For the engine mounts i used the commo rubbers and basiacally just a right angle bracket off the chassis rails with some bracing.
I did mine for around $7k inc an 2nd hand LS1, doing all labour myself.
My suggestion would be buy the marks bellhousing adapter, use the commodore clutch, use marks blockhugger extraxtors (or make your own), make your own engine mounts and mod ac brackets, Use my plug in loom (if you are no good with electrics).
Steve
For the engine mounts i used the commo rubbers and basiacally just a right angle bracket off the chassis rails with some bracing.
I did mine for around $7k inc an 2nd hand LS1, doing all labour myself.
My suggestion would be buy the marks bellhousing adapter, use the commodore clutch, use marks blockhugger extraxtors (or make your own), make your own engine mounts and mod ac brackets, Use my plug in loom (if you are no good with electrics).
Steve
KILLA KUSTOM KABLES
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
0404811498
LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS
LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
0404811498
LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS
LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
mine cost me a tad over 8k using all marks stuff,djroberts wrote:i understand that M.A.'s are in the business of making money and i wish them well however, to purchase the gear from them costs a LOT of money - i was hoping to do the whole conversion for <10k. their product may be very good but its going to cost more than the car is worth. are they really the only people around modifying the 80 for this engine?
i sent a message to flatout, currently waiting for a response.
i am keen to hear anybody's thoughts on this topic, criticism is good
cheers - dave.
im running the toyota box
According to our measurements we have taken the engine will need to be moved forward 60mm approx. (this was a coarse measurement) to clear the firewall. With regard to the marks kit they move the engine forward about 86mm.
Concerning the sump, marks will provide one modified with a pickup however, pictures on there site are unavailable. I have heard that the 'low volume oil pan' put on the Camaro will fit and clear any moving parts but needs to be modified to accommodate a dipstick. Is the sump marks modify originally a rear hump sump?
If anybody has any images of their conversion especially the sump and engine/gearbox interface it would be greatly appreciated.
Our options currently are:
-move the engine and transmission forward as a whole but encounter problems with the gear and transfer levers.
-space the engine forward and shift gearbox/transfer forward (like the marks kit)
-cut the firewall and set the engine back with the gearbox/transfer in its original position.
Pro’s and con’s can be discussed.
Many thanks - Dave.
Concerning the sump, marks will provide one modified with a pickup however, pictures on there site are unavailable. I have heard that the 'low volume oil pan' put on the Camaro will fit and clear any moving parts but needs to be modified to accommodate a dipstick. Is the sump marks modify originally a rear hump sump?
If anybody has any images of their conversion especially the sump and engine/gearbox interface it would be greatly appreciated.
Our options currently are:
-move the engine and transmission forward as a whole but encounter problems with the gear and transfer levers.
-space the engine forward and shift gearbox/transfer forward (like the marks kit)
-cut the firewall and set the engine back with the gearbox/transfer in its original position.
Pro’s and con’s can be discussed.
Many thanks - Dave.
loose as a goose
not in the 80 in the 100 they are weaker they run the r series box(r150)crankycruiser wrote:they are right.. the 1hz boxes are weaker than the 1fz and the TD boxesKitika wrote:I got an email back from marks adaptors today and they reckon my standard gearbox won't be strong enough for the v8? I thought the 1hz gearbox was the same as the petrols box but with slightly different ratios?
the 80 series has the h series box in all models
with slightly diferent ratios
the 1hz box is fine if it is out of an 80 series and is the big H series box
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
yes this is true the only diff is the spline not strengthads80 wrote:the only difference in the 80 boxes is the op shaft, the 1hz runs an 11 inch clutch which would not hold the power, change the op shaft to the td or petrol model and run the 12 inch clutch, keeping the 1hz box is much better first gear ratio is lower
rather than change the shaft i just got a custom clutch made, 12inch with a fine spline center (1hz) thats what i did lot less stuffing around
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
i wanna put a 6L in my 105 series and have major doubts bout the marks kits also. i am not a fan of the crappy 2 flywheel job with a bodgy input shaft extender. cant be good with decent power avaliable at revs. this link is exactly what i pictured in my head. let alone the price they're asking for this junk. eww.djroberts wrote:http://www.flatoutoffroadracing.com/200 ... report.htm
i dont really wanna mess with the fire wall trying to find ~60mm on a road registered car. so i recon im going with the gearbox move. but i havent really had a good look as such yet. maybe a little firewall 'massage' wont hurt to much and gearbox move wont be as extreme.
lettuce know how you go anyhow. i think this is a great mod. and twin turboing it will be better.
MaccA
**ORSM45 - the gentleman i bought my ls2 off had a 105 with the 6L. from what i gather, the 100 was designed to have the v8 put in them so i don't think room is as critical as in the 80. the chassis rails are wider (his was an IFS originally with the 4.7) and the firewall is different (both advantageous). he wanted to keep the original auto and after much delegation ended up running the 6L with the 4.7 throttle body, sensors, computer etc. because communication between the Toyota box and GM engine management was incompatible. as you would expect, power would be down somewhat.
if you want to know any more just ask.
i think the inverted supercharger with top mounted inter-cooler is the way to go ide like to join the 600hp club
-Dave
if you want to know any more just ask.
i think the inverted supercharger with top mounted inter-cooler is the way to go ide like to join the 600hp club
-Dave
loose as a goose
heres a handy link on oil pansdjroberts wrote:According to our measurements we have taken the engine will need to be moved forward 60mm approx. (this was a coarse measurement) to clear the firewall. With regard to the marks kit they move the engine forward about 86mm.
Concerning the sump, marks will provide one modified with a pickup however, pictures on there site are unavailable. I have heard that the 'low volume oil pan' put on the Camaro will fit and clear any moving parts but needs to be modified to accommodate a dipstick. Is the sump marks modify originally a rear hump sump?
If anybody has any images of their conversion especially the sump and engine/gearbox interface it would be greatly appreciated.
Our options currently are:
-move the engine and transmission forward as a whole but encounter problems with the gear and transfer levers.
-space the engine forward and shift gearbox/transfer forward (like the marks kit)
-cut the firewall and set the engine back with the gearbox/transfer in its original position.
Pro’s and con’s can be discussed.
Many thanks - Dave.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... -pans.html
this is my sump. its the bigger sump that holds more oil, and rear drop (obviously)
I just got a price from marks for the sump...
$795!!!!
What is yours out of exactly cranky? And how much dosh did ya pay?
I also got the instruction manual from marks for the conversion if you wanted to have a read djroberts. I don't think the gearbox movement is much and they massage the firewall to make the extra space.
$795!!!!
What is yours out of exactly cranky? And how much dosh did ya pay?
I also got the instruction manual from marks for the conversion if you wanted to have a read djroberts. I don't think the gearbox movement is much and they massage the firewall to make the extra space.
More Suzuki parts going to the big Suzuki Heaven in the sky!
MIne is a rear truck sump (so chev truck im guessin ) got it off MUD000 for $350. they always come up cheap on ebay etc.Kitika wrote:I just got a price from marks for the sump...
$795!!!!
What is yours out of exactly cranky? And how much dosh did ya pay?
I also got the instruction manual from marks for the conversion if you wanted to have a read djroberts. I don't think the gearbox movement is much and they massage the firewall to make the extra space.
beware of the o ring for the rear drop sump oil pickup. mine was diferent, coundnt use the front drop o ring. the part number is listed on that site i posted up.
That flywheel flexplate set up could it be further strengthened by having posts connecting the flywheel and flexplate further out toward the circumference of both in 3 or 6 places
i can see how that massive failure could have occurred (the one in the pics of the race truck)
the flex plate in an auto is normally supported and held ridgid by the torque converter closer to its extremities reducing harmonics (flexing) and stopping ring gear failure and then eventual total flexplate failure
Now i know heaps of people are gunna pipe up and say but i have had this set up for x number of years with no problem well good on you
but it is all about saftey margin if it were my legs next to that tunnel i would be making it stronger all for the sake of about $50
i can see how that massive failure could have occurred (the one in the pics of the race truck)
the flex plate in an auto is normally supported and held ridgid by the torque converter closer to its extremities reducing harmonics (flexing) and stopping ring gear failure and then eventual total flexplate failure
Now i know heaps of people are gunna pipe up and say but i have had this set up for x number of years with no problem well good on you
but it is all about saftey margin if it were my legs next to that tunnel i would be making it stronger all for the sake of about $50
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
hell yeah dave!! wouldnt we all.djroberts wrote:**ORSM45 - the gentleman i bought my ls2 off had a 105 with the 6L. from what i gather, the 100 was designed to have the v8 put in them so i don't think room is as critical as in the 80. the chassis rails are wider (his was an IFS originally with the 4.7) and the firewall is different (both advantageous). he wanted to keep the original auto and after much delegation ended up running the 6L with the 4.7 throttle body, sensors, computer etc. because communication between the Toyota box and GM engine management was incompatible. as you would expect, power would be down somewhat.
if you want to know any more just ask.
i think the inverted supercharger with top mounted inter-cooler is the way to go ide like to join the 600hp club
-Dave
mines a 4.5L auto with the solid front end. the body's may be the same but im not too sure. possibly have different firewalls. as i said, i havent looked yet. and dont have a v8 hundgy to look at to compare anyway.
more info would be great. thanks.
i am seriously keen on this conversion if i could do it without the marks kit. (and if someone wants to buy my engine, its just run in, only done 200,000 ) im not that scared of cutting and moving stuff to make it stronger for my peace of mind. once its in id be aiming for the 600hp (and then kilowatts ) club.
MaccA
infront of the flex plate (read bolted to it) is a solid plate just like the flywheel.......... u wont make it flex any less than thatthrashlux wrote:That flywheel flexplate set up could it be further strengthened by having posts connecting the flywheel and flexplate further out toward the circumference of both in 3 or 6 places
i can see how that massive failure could have occurred (the one in the pics of the race truck)
the flex plate in an auto is normally supported and held ridgid by the torque converter closer to its extremities reducing harmonics (flexing) and stopping ring gear failure and then eventual total flexplate failure
Now i know heaps of people are gunna pipe up and say but i have had this set up for x number of years with no problem well good on you
but it is all about saftey margin if it were my legs next to that tunnel i would be making it stronger all for the sake of about $50
ok that would be bettercrankycruiser wrote:infront of the flex plate (read bolted to it) is a solid plate just like the flywheel.......... u wont make it flex any less than thatthrashlux wrote:That flywheel flexplate set up could it be further strengthened by having posts connecting the flywheel and flexplate further out toward the circumference of both in 3 or 6 places
i can see how that massive failure could have occurred (the one in the pics of the race truck)
the flex plate in an auto is normally supported and held ridgid by the torque converter closer to its extremities reducing harmonics (flexing) and stopping ring gear failure and then eventual total flexplate failure
Now i know heaps of people are gunna pipe up and say but i have had this set up for x number of years with no problem well good on you
but it is all about saftey margin if it were my legs next to that tunnel i would be making it stronger all for the sake of about $50
if you look at the pics of the blown one it appears only the inner holes of the flex plate have been bolted to something (clean) the outer bolts on the circumference seem to be dirty like they were not used
perhaps they used a different set up to what you speak of??
Even so i think bolting the 2 plates together would offer more stability for the whole set up including the fly wheel they would help each other and be one linked rotating mass
it was just an idea to perhaps improve any weaknesses in the set up and reduce harmonics (which is why the one in the pic failed)
could not hurt right?
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
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