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Replacing sump gasket - GQ patrol
Replacing sump gasket - GQ patrol
After 230k my oil leak though the sump gasket which I have had for the past 20,000 kms is is getting worse. I've heard the gaskets get pretty much baked onto the seals and you have to chiesel them off? Is it that much of a bitch of a job to do yourself?
Its been a while since i did mine but im pretty sure that you can do it on the car and is a piece of piss to do. Just undo the 50 million bolts holding it on, scrape off the old gasket and replace it with a new seal or just buy the stuff in the tube (gasket goo or something like that). then replace sump and tignten the screws. If you do a good job it sould never leak again. Oh and my gasket was not that hard to get off after 220,000kms
Mine was a bastard to get off, I belted the sump one night & it started to leak.
Can be done in car easily enough, as said undo all the bolts & there is enough clearance to get the sump out.
Luckily the gasket stayed on the sump, not the block so it was easier to remove.
I used an ACL gasket first & the bloody thing leaked because it was cork.
I used a Nissan one second time with some ultra blue & it has been good for 4 years now.
Go the Nissan paper gasket, dear a poison but if you dont have to take it off again its worth it.
Can be done in car easily enough, as said undo all the bolts & there is enough clearance to get the sump out.
Luckily the gasket stayed on the sump, not the block so it was easier to remove.
I used an ACL gasket first & the bloody thing leaked because it was cork.
I used a Nissan one second time with some ultra blue & it has been good for 4 years now.
Go the Nissan paper gasket, dear a poison but if you dont have to take it off again its worth it.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
i just did mine thanks to having to fit a turbo drain pipe, anyhow its easy, but wear safety goggles because if there is any grains of dirt, they WILL end up in your eyes, dont worry about a gasket, use grey permatex, its listed in nissans repair manual, and its much easier to work with, just make sure u get the grey one, the others dont work as well
oh and let it set for 24hrs before you start it or even fill it with oil again
oh and let it set for 24hrs before you start it or even fill it with oil again
Maverick. Unlocked on 35's MOTTO: Lock, Stomp & Hold on
Just did mine recently for a turbo return line as well.
Had to remove the front gearbox mounts allowing the sump to come out backwards as the sump could not slide sideways and out because of the exhaust.
The sump pick up will hold the sump up after removing the gazillion bolts and requires you to get your arm in over the sump lip to the two 12mm bolts holding it up.
Take your time to scrape off all the excess gasket and crap and it will work well.
Had to remove the front gearbox mounts allowing the sump to come out backwards as the sump could not slide sideways and out because of the exhaust.
The sump pick up will hold the sump up after removing the gazillion bolts and requires you to get your arm in over the sump lip to the two 12mm bolts holding it up.
Take your time to scrape off all the excess gasket and crap and it will work well.
Ok. I did mine not that long ago for the urbo oil drain - here's the process:
- Wash your engine bay. Pay particular attention to the block.
- Go home, soak the block in degreaser, then wash it down again.
- Get under the car and wash it from the bottom up, and clear the crud out from where the engine/trans meet, and under the cast webbings on either side.
- Drain your sump (i left mine to drain for two days)
- Unbolt the cast webbings on each side at the rear of the motor.
- Undo the fourtybazillion bolts that hold the sump on.
- Carefully pry the sump off with a flat head screwdriver/fine chisel. It will be stuck on there super-tight, so be patient and work on it.
- After sump removal, clear away any excess mud/grit/sludge from the mating surface. (Wear goggles as previously stated).
- Use a sharp chisel to remove 99% of old gasket off both sump and block.
- Finish off the mating surface with a razor blade or some 600 grit paper.
- Wipe both surfaces down with wax/grease remover to allow best adhesion of gasket smoo.
- Clean oil pickup if needed.
- Put a thin film of smoo onto gasket, then bolt it all up. I let mine sit for 2 days before putting oil in it.
There's a knack to getting the sump on and off due to suspension clearance, but mine wasn't too bad because its lifted a bit.
- Wash your engine bay. Pay particular attention to the block.
- Go home, soak the block in degreaser, then wash it down again.
- Get under the car and wash it from the bottom up, and clear the crud out from where the engine/trans meet, and under the cast webbings on either side.
- Drain your sump (i left mine to drain for two days)
- Unbolt the cast webbings on each side at the rear of the motor.
- Undo the fourtybazillion bolts that hold the sump on.
- Carefully pry the sump off with a flat head screwdriver/fine chisel. It will be stuck on there super-tight, so be patient and work on it.
- After sump removal, clear away any excess mud/grit/sludge from the mating surface. (Wear goggles as previously stated).
- Use a sharp chisel to remove 99% of old gasket off both sump and block.
- Finish off the mating surface with a razor blade or some 600 grit paper.
- Wipe both surfaces down with wax/grease remover to allow best adhesion of gasket smoo.
- Clean oil pickup if needed.
- Put a thin film of smoo onto gasket, then bolt it all up. I let mine sit for 2 days before putting oil in it.
There's a knack to getting the sump on and off due to suspension clearance, but mine wasn't too bad because its lifted a bit.
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