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What model lux diffs?
What model lux diffs?
I've decided to go with Hilux diffs under my zuk and am wondering what year model to look for? Are there any differences or are they all the same? What gearing do they have?
Edit: I have a 1.6L 8v carby and S4 transfer gears and im looking at running 35"s
Edit: I have a 1.6L 8v carby and S4 transfer gears and im looking at running 35"s
Last edited by ZUKPOWER on Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
oh i was always told the opposite. i might jump under my mates and have a look through the week. because my 106 diffs arent very gusseted so i would like to confirm.NIK wrote:Im not 100% but I thought it was the earlier the more gussets? Mines 85/86 cant remember but it was a solid axle 4runner and the front diff is gusseted all the way along.
Nik
weaves
edit to include this
these do have gussets running the whole length top and bottom.
is that what yours are like nik?
weaves
the later the model diffs the more gusseting they have. The LN106 diffs i have still don't have a huge amound of gusseting anyway.
i'm not sure about the gearing but they are all mechanically the same. all use the same swivel hub kits and wheel bearings.
weaves.
this is true the later the model the stronger the housing
i'm not sure about the gearing but they are all mechanically the same. all use the same swivel hub kits and wheel bearings.
weaves.
this is true the later the model the stronger the housing
R.I.P. Darryl "DAZZA" Mutch 02/08/1978 - 26/08/2012 aged 34 years ... You will be missed my little brother.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
gen 1 ('79-'84): no gusset on front diff, early brakes. I think they had the 4.8 C&P
gen 2 ('84-'88): Gets the gussett on the front diff, rear drums slightly different I think, diesel=4.5, petrol=?
gen 3 ('88-'97): Vented front rotors with bigger calipers (not sure if rear drums are different). diesel=4.3, petrol=?
After this is all IFS stuff.
I've cannot remember the petrol diff ratios, but as a general rule the later models are higher geared, the early models have the low diff gears.
All the bits can be interchanged between the different models, so its not a big deal if you want to get bits from earlier and later models. The axles in my fathers Hilux are gen 2 with gen 3 brakes, and 4.1 C&Ps.
Personally I'd get the newest axles you can find (ie late model gen 3) with the best brakes, and just source the diff gears you want.
gen 2 ('84-'88): Gets the gussett on the front diff, rear drums slightly different I think, diesel=4.5, petrol=?
gen 3 ('88-'97): Vented front rotors with bigger calipers (not sure if rear drums are different). diesel=4.3, petrol=?
After this is all IFS stuff.
I've cannot remember the petrol diff ratios, but as a general rule the later models are higher geared, the early models have the low diff gears.
All the bits can be interchanged between the different models, so its not a big deal if you want to get bits from earlier and later models. The axles in my fathers Hilux are gen 2 with gen 3 brakes, and 4.1 C&Ps.
Personally I'd get the newest axles you can find (ie late model gen 3) with the best brakes, and just source the diff gears you want.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
you will need a bundera housing for the rear to matey!! i used the front housing from a 1980 flat tray lux, and not sure what year the bundy housing was from.. but surely there all the same!!
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
this is for the offset im presuming? is the offset the same between bundy housings and hilux fronts (ie same long and short side axles lengths) and are they the same spline?get it up there wrote:you will need a bundera housing for the rear to matey!! i used the front housing from a 1980 flat tray lux, and not sure what year the bundy housing was from.. but surely there all the same!!
does anyone have some suitable diffs they want to part with
ZUKPOWER wrote:this is for the offset im presuming? is the offset the same between bundy housings and hilux fronts (ie same long and short side axles lengths) and are they the same spline?get it up there wrote:you will need a bundera housing for the rear to matey!! i used the front housing from a 1980 flat tray lux, and not sure what year the bundy housing was from.. but surely there all the same!!
does anyone have some suitable diffs they want to part with
i think NEED is way to strong a word to be used . you can get away with std hilux rear diffs no dramas , as many have . if the offset is a big issue in your mind just go 60 series diffs be cheaper than getting a bundy rear .
and less hassle in the long run .
set your limits way beyond your ability
member of COR4x4
member of COR4x4
Yes, you could use a standard hilux diff for the rear, but you will also have to move the transfer towards the centre of the vehicle.. which obviously creates heaps of work. Or, use a bundy housingblade 929 wrote:ZUKPOWER wrote:this is for the offset im presuming? is the offset the same between bundy housings and hilux fronts (ie same long and short side axles lengths) and are they the same spline?get it up there wrote:you will need a bundera housing for the rear to matey!! i used the front housing from a 1980 flat tray lux, and not sure what year the bundy housing was from.. but surely there all the same!!
does anyone have some suitable diffs they want to part with
i think NEED is way to strong a word to be used . you can get away with std hilux rear diffs no dramas , as many have . if the offset is a big issue in your mind just go 60 series diffs be cheaper than getting a bundy rear .
and less hassle in the long run .
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Well heres my 2 bobs worth of input from when i did the conversion about 12 months ago. I used the front housing from a flat tray 1980 lux.. and a bundera using for the rear (not sure of the date). At first, i tried using a standard hilux rear, but due to the transfer being off centre, i had HEAPS of dramas, which is why i went to the bundy housing. I also put hilux front springs into the rear of the zook at the same time. I ordered new perches, high steer kit, shock hoops, shock mounts, U bolt flip kit, and the kit that aligns the drivers side perch to the correct location (cant really use a new perch in the correct location cause the diff centre is in the way). All the parts are here.. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samyotaswap.htm
Next, i started on the rear.. pulled out the zook diff etc..
Then i welded the new perches on in the right spot, i also welded new shocky mounts onto the housing, and inverted the shocks. With the utilising the 3 hole perch, i also moved the diff back 1".
The lux diff in the rear, with the original zook front still
Then i started on the front. I ripped out the housing etc, took off the old shock mounts, and steering (tie rod etc, but left the sierra steering box)
Then i made up the high steer kit, and bolted it on, and made up the other kit to re-align the drivers side perch
Here she is "nearly" all done.. a flexy pic. This is with 32's, and was 5" wider than the original zook diffs
At this stage, i also made up the shocky hoops etc.
On the first test drive, i started having HUGE probs with bad vibrations.. i tried making up castor wedges to get the diff and transfer flanges paralel
Didnt help at all. I also tried running double cardon joint shafts etc.. didnt help either. Oh, i'm also using a hilux rear shaft in the front.. just chopped down to suit.
In this pic, you obviously cant see the difference in the flange angles.. but ya can "sort of" see the other 2 angles. no wonder the poor uni's were vibrating like mad
then i found a bundera diff.. which is off centre Luckily i still had some spring perchs and shocky mounts left over.. so i chucked them in for the photo to!!
Cleaning them up ready..
Here she is all pretty much back together. Oh, for memory i welded the perchs on so the 2 flanges were 0.8 degrees different.
First test drive, problem fixed!! Drove beautiful! (oh, now im using a lux rear shaft in the rear aswell.. so no more DC shaft!)
Now im running 35X11.5X15 tires.. and this is the track width (on cruiser rims)
Then i did a RUF, and with the SPOA the brake hoses were to short.. so i made up new mounts
The new setup.. with new brake hoses too.
A good shot of the high steer and diff etc..
Oh, i also Had some more dramas with uni angles.. the standard lux uni was crashing on itself and wasnt allowing flex.. after a bit of researching.. i found a slip joint out of a 85 lux (DC joint end) has heaps more angle!!
.
At the end of it, i am running these 35's.. twin lockers with a vitara EFI motor, and havent busted a single thing. Hope i havent missed anything
Next, i started on the rear.. pulled out the zook diff etc..
Then i welded the new perches on in the right spot, i also welded new shocky mounts onto the housing, and inverted the shocks. With the utilising the 3 hole perch, i also moved the diff back 1".
The lux diff in the rear, with the original zook front still
Then i started on the front. I ripped out the housing etc, took off the old shock mounts, and steering (tie rod etc, but left the sierra steering box)
Then i made up the high steer kit, and bolted it on, and made up the other kit to re-align the drivers side perch
Here she is "nearly" all done.. a flexy pic. This is with 32's, and was 5" wider than the original zook diffs
At this stage, i also made up the shocky hoops etc.
On the first test drive, i started having HUGE probs with bad vibrations.. i tried making up castor wedges to get the diff and transfer flanges paralel
Didnt help at all. I also tried running double cardon joint shafts etc.. didnt help either. Oh, i'm also using a hilux rear shaft in the front.. just chopped down to suit.
In this pic, you obviously cant see the difference in the flange angles.. but ya can "sort of" see the other 2 angles. no wonder the poor uni's were vibrating like mad
then i found a bundera diff.. which is off centre Luckily i still had some spring perchs and shocky mounts left over.. so i chucked them in for the photo to!!
Cleaning them up ready..
Here she is all pretty much back together. Oh, for memory i welded the perchs on so the 2 flanges were 0.8 degrees different.
First test drive, problem fixed!! Drove beautiful! (oh, now im using a lux rear shaft in the rear aswell.. so no more DC shaft!)
Now im running 35X11.5X15 tires.. and this is the track width (on cruiser rims)
Then i did a RUF, and with the SPOA the brake hoses were to short.. so i made up new mounts
The new setup.. with new brake hoses too.
A good shot of the high steer and diff etc..
Oh, i also Had some more dramas with uni angles.. the standard lux uni was crashing on itself and wasnt allowing flex.. after a bit of researching.. i found a slip joint out of a 85 lux (DC joint end) has heaps more angle!!
.
At the end of it, i am running these 35's.. twin lockers with a vitara EFI motor, and havent busted a single thing. Hope i havent missed anything
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
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