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ls1 auto problems?
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ls1 auto problems?
hello every one.
iv just finished putting a ls1 into my shorty GQ and am having trouble keeping the auto in one piece. It is a standard 4l60e with a marks adapters kit, it keeps smashing up the oil pump. i have done 2 in about 200km, the second one only lasted about 800m. The torque converter was installed correctly too. anyone seen or heard of this?
iv just finished putting a ls1 into my shorty GQ and am having trouble keeping the auto in one piece. It is a standard 4l60e with a marks adapters kit, it keeps smashing up the oil pump. i have done 2 in about 200km, the second one only lasted about 800m. The torque converter was installed correctly too. anyone seen or heard of this?
Ive had a LS1 in my landrover for nearly 6 years
My engine builder who does HP commodores all day says a standard 4l60e wouldnt be up to the task especially if you have big tyres etc
I went through about 8 gearboxes before I got mine right with a Torqueflite 727 in a 1920kg car which were supposed to be "indestructable" at the time
But it should last longer than 800m. What gearbox temprature are you running? are you running a high stall? and what size tyres?
My engine builder who does HP commodores all day says a standard 4l60e wouldnt be up to the task especially if you have big tyres etc
I went through about 8 gearboxes before I got mine right with a Torqueflite 727 in a 1920kg car which were supposed to be "indestructable" at the time
But it should last longer than 800m. What gearbox temprature are you running? are you running a high stall? and what size tyres?
2011 Australasian Safari Assault on a Quad
http://www.offroadinoz.com/viewtopic.php?t=1864
http://www.offroadinoz.com/viewtopic.php?t=1864
something is very WRONG if you are smashing the oil pump.
wrong flexplate, wrong converter or alignment problems.
it actually sounds like you didnt fit the torque converter up properly.
when you joined the engine to the box, could you spin the converter before you bolted it to the flex plate?
when you fit a t700 into a 4wd, you as a minimum should increase line pressure and firm up the shifts ( this wont make any difference to your pump smashing though)
Jes
wrong flexplate, wrong converter or alignment problems.
it actually sounds like you didnt fit the torque converter up properly.
when you joined the engine to the box, could you spin the converter before you bolted it to the flex plate?
when you fit a t700 into a 4wd, you as a minimum should increase line pressure and firm up the shifts ( this wont make any difference to your pump smashing though)
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
x2jessie928 wrote:something is very WRONG if you are smashing the oil pump.
wrong flexplate, wrong converter or alignment problems.
it actually sounds like you didnt fit the torque converter up properly.
when you joined the engine to the box, could you spin the converter before you bolted it to the flex plate?
when you fit a t700 into a 4wd, you as a minimum should increase line pressure and firm up the shifts ( this wont make any difference to your pump smashing though)
Jes
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
thanks for the replies guys, keep them coming tho,
i am running standard converter, flex plate, bell housing combination strait from a commodore. i know they r not the strongest box but i havnt even pushed it hard yet, i do have 35's. not sure on temp as my gauge is still sitting on my desk ready to be installed, as i stated earlier the converter was definitely installed correctly. i have had the line pressures increased a small amount, however i have also been told that i should not increase them as it will put even more load on everything with a harder shift.
the only thing that seems strange to me is that when the box is all bolted up i actualy had to slide the converter about 3mm towards the flex plate to get it to meet, hav been told this is normal in a commodore, hav been told by a shop that they quite often have to space the pump assembly forward to un do this when the box's r used in this application, anyone heard of this?
i am running standard converter, flex plate, bell housing combination strait from a commodore. i know they r not the strongest box but i havnt even pushed it hard yet, i do have 35's. not sure on temp as my gauge is still sitting on my desk ready to be installed, as i stated earlier the converter was definitely installed correctly. i have had the line pressures increased a small amount, however i have also been told that i should not increase them as it will put even more load on everything with a harder shift.
the only thing that seems strange to me is that when the box is all bolted up i actualy had to slide the converter about 3mm towards the flex plate to get it to meet, hav been told this is normal in a commodore, hav been told by a shop that they quite often have to space the pump assembly forward to un do this when the box's r used in this application, anyone heard of this?
hi mate,pub900 wrote:thanks for the replies guys, keep them coming tho,
i am running standard converter, flex plate, bell housing combination strait from a commodore. i know they r not the strongest box but i havnt even pushed it hard yet, i do have 35's. not sure on temp as my gauge is still sitting on my desk ready to be installed, as i stated earlier the converter was definitely installed correctly. i have had the line pressures increased a small amount, however i have also been told that i should not increase them as it will put even more load on everything with a harder shift.
the only thing that seems strange to me is that when the box is all bolted up i actualy had to slide the converter about 3mm towards the flex plate to get it to meet, hav been told this is normal in a commodore, hav been told by a shop that they quite often have to space the pump assembly forward to un do this when the box's r used in this application, anyone heard of this?
what part of teh pump failing? vanes or the actual lugs that slide into the converter?
it definatly sounds like something is amiss with the converter, It could for all intents and purposes welded wrong/skewed,bent.
there should be between 2.5 and 4.5 mm of room between the converter and the flywheel when the gearbox is fullt bolted to the engine. so 3mm is normal.
the correct way of doing the spacing is DEFINATLY not from the pump, you would correct the tabs on the converter or use shims under the bolts ( only a few mm) or weld larger " spacer" washers onto the flexplate.
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
it seems to be braking the lugs that go into the converter, see pics. i also didnth like the sounds of moving the pump, but did think to space the converter off the ring gear, i think will be my first option. when you say
"it definatly sounds like something is amiss with the converter, It could for all intents and purposes welded wrong/skewed,bent."
r u talking about engine and gearbox mounts or something els, if you r i dont beleve they are as it is not a struggle to get anything to line up, and the bell housing and block meet up perfectly.
"it definatly sounds like something is amiss with the converter, It could for all intents and purposes welded wrong/skewed,bent."
r u talking about engine and gearbox mounts or something els, if you r i dont beleve they are as it is not a struggle to get anything to line up, and the bell housing and block meet up perfectly.
hi man,
by the pics, its looks like the converter is not going into the pump far enough.
you said its only pulling 3mm into the flywheel, but it looks like its sitting back a heap more.
another thing, it looks like you have a 13 vane pump ( high volume) these are very prone to breakage if they get no fluid and the engine is reving higher than idle.
things to do before it goes back in
get a 10 vane pump ( plenty volume and stronger)
sit the torque converter hard into the box and mark a point on the converter and back on the box and measure it.
once you lift the box into the car, pull the converter back and measure it to make sure you have teh same measurement, now measure the converter tabs to flywheel clearance. should be as i stated in the post above.
when you are measuring, spin the flywheel to0 check at other bolt hole points, it may be warped a little and giving you false readings (they warp sometimes because of to tight starter gear to ring gear clearance, not noticeable as much when the torque converter is bolted up)
JEs
by the pics, its looks like the converter is not going into the pump far enough.
you said its only pulling 3mm into the flywheel, but it looks like its sitting back a heap more.
another thing, it looks like you have a 13 vane pump ( high volume) these are very prone to breakage if they get no fluid and the engine is reving higher than idle.
things to do before it goes back in
get a 10 vane pump ( plenty volume and stronger)
sit the torque converter hard into the box and mark a point on the converter and back on the box and measure it.
once you lift the box into the car, pull the converter back and measure it to make sure you have teh same measurement, now measure the converter tabs to flywheel clearance. should be as i stated in the post above.
when you are measuring, spin the flywheel to0 check at other bolt hole points, it may be warped a little and giving you false readings (they warp sometimes because of to tight starter gear to ring gear clearance, not noticeable as much when the torque converter is bolted up)
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
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