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Dual tank siphon setup
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Dual tank siphon setup
Hi All,
I've bought a 2nd hand sub-tank to add to my GQ diesel. From what I have read elsewhere these sub-tanks are usually set up to be siphoned by the main tank. The tank came out of a petrol truck and has a fuel tank sender fitted with an in tank electric pump.
Does anyone know how I plumb the sub tank into the main tank to allow for this siphon set up? Do I need to wire up the in tank pump and, if so, should it be always on? I haven't been able to find any diagrams etc. on the internet.
Cheers,
David
I've bought a 2nd hand sub-tank to add to my GQ diesel. From what I have read elsewhere these sub-tanks are usually set up to be siphoned by the main tank. The tank came out of a petrol truck and has a fuel tank sender fitted with an in tank electric pump.
Does anyone know how I plumb the sub tank into the main tank to allow for this siphon set up? Do I need to wire up the in tank pump and, if so, should it be always on? I haven't been able to find any diagrams etc. on the internet.
Cheers,
David
Not sure how nissan do it but I'd hook up the 2nd tanks' pump and run a hose from it to the primary tanks' filler pipe. Just flick a switch and 2nd tank will empty into primary tank.
OR
Fit a 3 way tap so you can run off primary OR 2nd tank (or both).
You should be able to fit an on-off-on switch to your gauge wiring so you can check both tanks with the original gauge.
OR
Fit a 3 way tap so you can run off primary OR 2nd tank (or both).
You should be able to fit an on-off-on switch to your gauge wiring so you can check both tanks with the original gauge.
The GU's pump from the smaller sub tank to the main tank. The pump automatically stops pumping when the tank is empty.
You could always braize an additional fitting into your filler neck, and connect your sub tank outlet to that. I would not have it set up to syphon, as it could accidently start and you could overfill your main tank. Dont forget to put a T piece into the main breather for when you are filling the sub.
You could always braize an additional fitting into your filler neck, and connect your sub tank outlet to that. I would not have it set up to syphon, as it could accidently start and you could overfill your main tank. Dont forget to put a T piece into the main breather for when you are filling the sub.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Remember that you also need to fit the fuel return line.
My 80 used to suck and return to the same tank, had two 3 way solinodes with it could sux from either tank and the return had the same.
This way I could hole one tank and still drive off the second without a problem
My "New" 60, however, sucks from one tank and returns to the other, When the return tank is full it just overflows into the other tank, when it starts to get low, I use a elec, pump to transfer it across.
I'm not a big fan of this setup and will be changing it to a setup the same as the 80 had soon.
My 80 used to suck and return to the same tank, had two 3 way solinodes with it could sux from either tank and the return had the same.
This way I could hole one tank and still drive off the second without a problem
My "New" 60, however, sucks from one tank and returns to the other, When the return tank is full it just overflows into the other tank, when it starts to get low, I use a elec, pump to transfer it across.
I'm not a big fan of this setup and will be changing it to a setup the same as the 80 had soon.
Thanks for the replies!
Does anyone know how well the standard in-tank pumps flow? By the size of the pump I'd imagine it would take half a day to transfer the fuel
.
I imagine I could somehow tap into the fuel senders and have the pump run continuously as long as the main tank is not full and the sub tank is not empty.
The six-port solenoid valves cost about $90 shipped from the USA on ebay. Maybe that is a better way to go.
Does anyone know how well the standard in-tank pumps flow? By the size of the pump I'd imagine it would take half a day to transfer the fuel

I imagine I could somehow tap into the fuel senders and have the pump run continuously as long as the main tank is not full and the sub tank is not empty.
The six-port solenoid valves cost about $90 shipped from the USA on ebay. Maybe that is a better way to go.
Here's an Aussie seller on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Pollak-6-Port-Va ... 44001r2277Chucky wrote:do you have a link to the 6 port solenoid?
Sounds just like what I need.
Cheers
'Pollak' is the brand name. If you Google for Pollak 6 Port Valve you'll find plenty of people selling them.
I'm looking into this myself at the moment, i chose not to get the 6 port valve!
My reasons were that being a diesel, with the 6 port you cant ever run the aux tank dry - will get air in the system, and i'm sceptical how well the long aux tanks pickup will go when theres 10-15 litre in it and you go down or up a steep hill (fuel may run away from pickup and theres that air issue again!), i can vouch for the factory tank not letting it run out of fuel when theres stuff all in it.
The transfer pump doesn't have to pump fast, lot of people say the factory GU one is too slow! it only has to pump more than the engine uses and it'll be ok.
something like this facet below would empty a 70L tank in 30 minutes - plenty.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Facet-Pu ... ccessories
The way i figure is that the main tank is 88L and the aux are around 70-75L, hit the pump when the gauge goes just below empty and transfer the lot.
By using a pump over valve i figure i should get another 10 useable litres.
If i had a petrol on the other hand it likely choose the 6 port
My reasons were that being a diesel, with the 6 port you cant ever run the aux tank dry - will get air in the system, and i'm sceptical how well the long aux tanks pickup will go when theres 10-15 litre in it and you go down or up a steep hill (fuel may run away from pickup and theres that air issue again!), i can vouch for the factory tank not letting it run out of fuel when theres stuff all in it.
The transfer pump doesn't have to pump fast, lot of people say the factory GU one is too slow! it only has to pump more than the engine uses and it'll be ok.
something like this facet below would empty a 70L tank in 30 minutes - plenty.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Facet-Pu ... ccessories
The way i figure is that the main tank is 88L and the aux are around 70-75L, hit the pump when the gauge goes just below empty and transfer the lot.
By using a pump over valve i figure i should get another 10 useable litres.
If i had a petrol on the other hand it likely choose the 6 port

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
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