I was trying to get some info on putting a 6" lift in my 80 series and i have been informed that even with gearbox mounts i need to get a double cardinal jointed tail shaft because of the excessive vibration from the angle.
what i would like to know is if i need the drive shaft even with the gearbox spacers or if it will still do 110 without the drive shaft and just the spacers only. the lift is going to cost around the 3grand mark so i wont to know if i will be forking out for the drive shaft or not.
If i need it when can i get one from or made up from as i am on the gold coast.... thanks.
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DOUBLE CARDINAL FRONT DRIVESHAFT 80 SERIES
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Probably because a body lift on an 80 series is almost completely pointless unless hes looking to fit 40" + rubber, the only reason you would perform a body lift is for fitting bigger tires and you can fit massive rubber under even a 2" coil lift on a 80 series. so theres no real point at all to a body lift unless your going for legality with 2" + 2" setup.duck wrote:why are you doing such a big lift, why not a body lift?
TD 80 Series - Custom barwork, E locked, 35" MTR's, Lifted, Fox Shocks. Good times.
I had a 6 inch lift on mine and I needed a double cardin front shaft,
I ran 35 inch tyres with it then decided it drove like crap, put in a two inch lift and was still able to run the 35 inch tyres but it drove so much better.
I probably would not have listened to anyone when I spent money on it if they told me not to bother putting in such a big lift, but trust me unless you plan on running 38" tyres you will regret it and take it out unless you get canaried and get forced to lower it.
Good luck mate.
I ran 35 inch tyres with it then decided it drove like crap, put in a two inch lift and was still able to run the 35 inch tyres but it drove so much better.
I probably would not have listened to anyone when I spent money on it if they told me not to bother putting in such a big lift, but trust me unless you plan on running 38" tyres you will regret it and take it out unless you get canaried and get forced to lower it.
Good luck mate.
my point, it was cheeper for me to run a 2+2 and fit 36s with our rubbing then going a 4" lift, 4" you need stuff like longer panhards, break lines, ect, a 6" lift in my eyes is pointless unless your going for 37s or 38s, witch most people do, so if your looking running 35s i would go with the 2+2 coss it keeps the COG down is better to driveMJ80 wrote:Probably because a body lift on an 80 series is almost completely pointless unless hes looking to fit 40" + rubber, the only reason you would perform a body lift is for fitting bigger tires and you can fit massive rubber under even a 2" coil lift on a 80 series. so theres no real point at all to a body lift unless your going for legality with 2" + 2" setup.duck wrote:why are you doing such a big lift, why not a body lift?
if you have a constant front end you will need the double cardin i had to put one in mine when i put 6 inch in mine, cost is a round $750 from driveline services I have one available for $500 if you need it
80 series 6inch lift f&r air lockers 34 jt'2s homemade endless air f&r bars dwr unit rock slidder bars and lots of other goodies
I WASTED massive amounts of money on DC shafts for the front of my 7" lifted 80, and while it worked.. they never lasted for long! in the end i jsut ended up going for a part time kit.. I could of paid for it 3 times over with what i wasted on DC shafts!
Pros For DC
u get to keep full time 4wds hence better road holding
Cons,
have to grease the bastards all the time and still wear out fast (in my experience)
costs 700ish to get built
Part Time kit
Pros,
$500
Less front end wear
Fuel savings (minimal but they are there)
if u bust a cv or diff u can just unlock the hubs and drive home.
can get more angle oute of the front shaft when flexing lots (contrary to popular belief u dont actually get more angle out of a dc, even the high angle solid front hilux ones still wont give u as much angle as a normal shaft)
Cons.
Will still vib at high speed in 4wd, but ya only gunna notice it on the beach or high speed gravel
Have to install it to t case, (but is easy if ya know how to use spanners!)
Worse road holding
Pros For DC
u get to keep full time 4wds hence better road holding
Cons,
have to grease the bastards all the time and still wear out fast (in my experience)
costs 700ish to get built
Part Time kit
Pros,
$500
Less front end wear
Fuel savings (minimal but they are there)
if u bust a cv or diff u can just unlock the hubs and drive home.
can get more angle oute of the front shaft when flexing lots (contrary to popular belief u dont actually get more angle out of a dc, even the high angle solid front hilux ones still wont give u as much angle as a normal shaft)
Cons.
Will still vib at high speed in 4wd, but ya only gunna notice it on the beach or high speed gravel
Have to install it to t case, (but is easy if ya know how to use spanners!)
Worse road holding
Thanks for all the info.
i have been lookin round and from what u said all i really wont run is 33's so i was thinkin of down sizin to a 5inch lift. why i wonted to run the 6 is to compensate for the sag of the springs because im not to sure on how long dobinson springs last. if anyone has ran them experiences would be awesome to be able to get a hold of.
Thankss yall haha
i have been lookin round and from what u said all i really wont run is 33's so i was thinkin of down sizin to a 5inch lift. why i wonted to run the 6 is to compensate for the sag of the springs because im not to sure on how long dobinson springs last. if anyone has ran them experiences would be awesome to be able to get a hold of.
Thankss yall haha
You could put the 33's in the 80 with no lift if you wanted.
I have a 2" with no body lift and run 33's on wide offset sunnys only time they rub is on compleat compression as they stick out under the flairs.
I will fix this with a small extension of the bump stops.
When it is flexed the tyres go into the guards with heaps of room and never look like rubbing with 33x12.5's
As for tyre size if you put the standard offset rimms on you will fit 35's with no problem. I only run the wide offset to keep the rig off the rut walls as the standards alow the flairs to get a bit to close.
I have a 2" with no body lift and run 33's on wide offset sunnys only time they rub is on compleat compression as they stick out under the flairs.
I will fix this with a small extension of the bump stops.
When it is flexed the tyres go into the guards with heaps of room and never look like rubbing with 33x12.5's
As for tyre size if you put the standard offset rimms on you will fit 35's with no problem. I only run the wide offset to keep the rig off the rut walls as the standards alow the flairs to get a bit to close.
what he said!!!80's_delirious wrote:save yourself a lot of headaches and go for 3-4" lift. I have 4" lift and run 35" tyres with no clearance issues
once you go above 3-4" you will start having handling and vibration problems that arent easily or cheaply fixed. If you only want 33s then its not worth the effort.
I ran 33's with a 3" lift and looking back it was great. Have since upgraded to 4-5" coils (everyone says it sits higher though) and everything else that was required, spent a fortune and whilst i happy off road its like a bucking bronco on the bitumen........had to upgrade to 35's to fill out the arches (I wanted to and missus told me to
)I already had part time kit in mine.
good luck with it
yea i am running a 3inch atm just springs and shocks but i do like the lifted look.
it sounds like once i go past 4inch it gets a bit full on eg double cardinal drive shafts and that sort of things.
i was thinkin around the 5inch mark but if i go 5 do i need to get serious with the drive shafts and that sort of thing?
it sounds like once i go past 4inch it gets a bit full on eg double cardinal drive shafts and that sort of things.
i was thinkin around the 5inch mark but if i go 5 do i need to get serious with the drive shafts and that sort of thing?
Yea i dont wont to get one its i wont to find out if the Gearbox Spacing Plates Will be enough of a drop so i dont get vibration on the highway.
i was told that a 4 - 5" lift you dont need to but i wont to be more specific.
all i wont to do is get the biggest lift in it like a 5ich without haveing to do the drive shaft.
i was told that a 4 - 5" lift you dont need to but i wont to be more specific.
all i wont to do is get the biggest lift in it like a 5ich without haveing to do the drive shaft.
to go to 4"lift or more, you are looking at adjustable panhards, caster correction plates (cause front shaft vibrations and other problems) or after market radius arms, extended brakes lines, extended sway bar mounts, longer springs and shocks.Westy_90 wrote:yea i am running a 3inch atm just springs and shocks but i do like the lifted look.
it sounds like once i go past 4inch it gets a bit full on eg double cardinal drive shafts and that sort of things.
i was thinkin around the 5inch mark but if i go 5 do i need to get serious with the drive shafts and that sort of thing?
things like tierod ends, uni joints, panhard rod bushes wear quicker, handling can be a biatch if caster isnt corrected.
33s look small on 4" lifted 80series. A lot of work and expense just coz you like the lifted look
awk i was going to go to all those things that u just said eg panards caster plates ect i just wont to know if there will be mass vibration if the 5" is too big. i am probably going to end up with either 15x10 35's or 15x10 33's
its just i wont to know if the 5 will give me stupidly undriveable vibration at 100k's. 6
6" is def out off the question so its either 4 or 5 now.
i know that the 5 will sink to a 4 so im thinkin that i will go that way.
thanks for all the advice and if anyone else has any ideas im quiet welcome to here them.
its just i wont to know if the 5 will give me stupidly undriveable vibration at 100k's. 6
6" is def out off the question so its either 4 or 5 now.
i know that the 5 will sink to a 4 so im thinkin that i will go that way.
thanks for all the advice and if anyone else has any ideas im quiet welcome to here them.
mate why waste 3 G on a six inch lift. if only running 33 a 4 inch will be plenty with heaps of flex, as cranky said ditch the dc idea an fit the part time kit. Thats one of the next mods on my list, ive got a 4" and the vibrations arent too bad for now, just turn the radio on.
U seem to sound pretty concerend bout the noise what you using your 80 for if its highway use the 6" is a really bad idea.
U seem to sound pretty concerend bout the noise what you using your 80 for if its highway use the 6" is a really bad idea.
1993 80 series, 4" tough dog adjustable bb lift kit, LPG, 35" MTR'S
brooksy wrote:Branden Tagg.....He is the King of all f@rkups & a Gimps bitch after hours
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