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Hey guys,
simple question im sure but this is causing me alot of dramas.
My front wheel bearings feel pretty lose and on a 2wd its very simple to tighten them, but on a 4by whats the best way to get to the nut?
Mines a 1984 4runner i have a manual but it doesnt explain it very well,
My prob is i can get the cover off the hub then undo the 12mm nuts behind that, then that 2nd cover still wont come off is there a circlip or something hidden in there or what, i have basically deformed the metal trying to pry it off wtf is the deal
Cheers
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
Where it bolts to the hub you should find tapered inserts under the nuts, these will need to be pursuaded to loosen up with a bit of tapping with a hammer and small cold chisel.
Struth wrote:Where it bolts to the hub you should find tapered inserts under the nuts, these will need to be pursuaded to loosen up with a bit of tapping with a hammer and small cold chisel.
Cheers
x2 then when you go to tighten the bearings be aware there is a lock washer between 2 54mm nuts. you can get a hub nut socket for these or you can get away with a hammer and cold chisle if you have too.
wheel bearings shouldnt really get lose as those nuts should not undo with the lock washer. have you considered replacing them instead, as they are probably worn? all up its like 80 - 100 bucks for both sides.
I learnt the hard way with this stuff and have been into my hubs half a dozen times now, rathern than just doing it all at once and taking 1/4 of the time.
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cheers guys, i figured i would replace them and just do full hub kits and everything at the same time so i was hoping it would be simple to tighten them meanwhile, but now i might just let them go till i can afford to fix it all at once as the seals are leaking and all.
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
i would personally get in and tighten them up even if they are worn as i had my drivers side bearing collapse on the freeway and it pulled to the right and then i had no brakes . so i have learnt to check them often and if needed tighten.
Struth wrote:Where it bolts to the hub you should find tapered inserts under the nuts, these will need to be pursuaded to loosen up with a bit of tapping with a hammer and small cold chisel.
Another good way to get these cone washers out is get a cheapy driver extension and 12mm socket and nut. Then get some freeze unlock spray and hit the studs with this and WD40 several times.
Take the original nut off and wind on the spare nut enough to fill it with thread but not leave the end of the stud exposed. Put the socket and extension on and then tap the other end of the extension with a hammer. You'll mash the end of the extension so it won't go on a driver anymore but that doesn't matter. The shock put thru the stud will shock the cone washers loose and because you have the nut on the end they won't go flying off. Don't be tempted to use the original dome shaped nut as the dome bit is too soft.
Once the washers are off, clean them up and grease them with anti-seize so they're easy to get off next time.
This is a cleaner way than trying to split the washers with a screwdriver/chisel and hammer as you usually end up marking the hub body.
4RUNNER_01 wrote:cheers guys, i figured i would replace them and just do full hub kits and everything at the same time so i was hoping it would be simple to tighten them meanwhile, but now i might just let them go till i can afford to fix it all at once as the seals are leaking and all.
When you do the seals and wipers, get some Marlin axle seals and forget about ever doing them again.
much better than using a cold chisel and hammer.
They tend to mark the edge of the nuts, and cause issues with them coming loose again as the burrs wear down, and the nut looses its preload.
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. so i have learnt to check them often and if needed tighten.
