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35s or 36s
35s or 36s
it has come to the time of getting new tyres they will be simex centapedes. what i want to know is it worth the extra time and money to fit 36.5 11.5 r15 or is itjust alot easier and cheaper to go with the 35s. i havent priced eather tyre yet cheers if you could help.
Re: 35s or 36s
for what use?? Wait till you price them.. they arent cheap by any means compared to normal tyres.Jake GQ.. wrote:it has come to the time of getting new tyres they will be simex centapedes. what i want to know is it worth the extra time and money to fit 36.5 11.5 r15 or is itjust alot easier and cheaper to go with the 35s. i havent priced eather tyre yet cheers if you could help.
Re: 35s or 36s
What do you want them for?Jake GQ.. wrote:it has come to the time of getting new tyres they will be simex centapedes. what i want to know is it worth the extra time and money to fit 36.5 11.5 r15 or is itjust alot easier and cheaper to go with the 35s. i havent priced eather tyre yet cheers if you could help.
What sort of offroading do you do?
Are road kms an issue?
Between the two you really have a 1/2 inch clearence difference, but if you are comming from 33's is a bigger better jump. The adjustments you will have to do are preety much the same for both, since r&p will have to change for either one I went 4.63 on mine, and so far so good. My only concern is the CV's, but for now haven't had any problems. I had to trim a little the inner flare with a 3" OME. With 35 you won't have to trim. There my 2 cents...
Thats a bit off isn't it?? What is written above sounds like good sense and advice to me. If we had restrictions like you guys have over here then i'd be waiting to see what happens before i buy as well. Fortunately if we want to put 35's, 38's, 44's on a rig with 4"usp lift..we can, it still has to be certified but on a GQ that is hardly a problem.Jake GQ.. wrote:thanks for the completely worthless feed back again from some people but the fedback that actualy was worth reading was good thanks. and i thought they would be $50 each
You will get some good input so don't knock it mate
1991 GQ TD42 Safari, 5spd, 4" Lift, 35" shovels, Locked & Loaded.
OK...
Sorry if you did not receive the expected feedback or if it wasn't made clear:
With 36's you will have to trim your fenders and change gear ratios. Differential that is. If you go genuine (r&p), which is my recomendation, since italian do not have the best reputation for what I gathered, it will cost you about $1800aus.
If I understood correctly -- sorry, new in forum -- you have a GU, so you should not have CV joint problems; however, you can still break them with 36's, so you may want to consider reinforced CV's. I did not do it and so far so good, the price is steep: Yuri is arround $800aus for a pair of CV's and cal is $1950aus for one set of CV and axle -- so multiply by two. Not worth the money unless you are really gonna be humping and competing.
Also you WILL have to trim your fenders (front only) or they will come off as soon as you flex and turn at the same time. No idea how much this could be in Australia, I'm 15 time zones away...
All of the above with a 3" lift. If you go 5" you may not have to trim as long as you change the offset of your rims (non stock).
35´s, well that's easier. No trim (unless a GQ), no CV's problems, if driving habits cooperate, but you will have to change gear ratios, else your Patrol will be SLOOOW...
To determin the above, all you have to do is multiply the diameter of your new tires (in inches) by the factory gear ratios and divide that by the factory tire diameter (also in inches) and you will get the diff gear ratio you will need; however, if yours is manual, you probably may want to use the next size up from your factory tieres for your rule of thirds, and that will give you a higher gear ratio (lower number). Either way, Nissan only makes for GU's 3.9, 4.1, 4.3 and 4.6, so that about says it all; however, you can find italian made 4.88 (won't need to go that low). In case you are not happy with your performance off-road, you can allways play with transffer gear ratios. 2.48 will do it and you can get them from Marks4wd for about $1395aus or you can go rockhopper (really good), but dont know the price. My advice is drive it first then decide if you want to mess with your transffer.
Sumarizing: The bigger you go, the more you will have to do and spend...
Hope this really helps!
If more specific info is needed, just ask. Happy to help, since I've allready been through that path.
BTW, I own a TB45, 36" with 4.625 r&p and some other stuff...
Cheers! Next time try a different approach, we are all willing to help for free, just because we love this stuff, no need to go that rout.
Sorry if you did not receive the expected feedback or if it wasn't made clear:
With 36's you will have to trim your fenders and change gear ratios. Differential that is. If you go genuine (r&p), which is my recomendation, since italian do not have the best reputation for what I gathered, it will cost you about $1800aus.
If I understood correctly -- sorry, new in forum -- you have a GU, so you should not have CV joint problems; however, you can still break them with 36's, so you may want to consider reinforced CV's. I did not do it and so far so good, the price is steep: Yuri is arround $800aus for a pair of CV's and cal is $1950aus for one set of CV and axle -- so multiply by two. Not worth the money unless you are really gonna be humping and competing.
Also you WILL have to trim your fenders (front only) or they will come off as soon as you flex and turn at the same time. No idea how much this could be in Australia, I'm 15 time zones away...
All of the above with a 3" lift. If you go 5" you may not have to trim as long as you change the offset of your rims (non stock).
35´s, well that's easier. No trim (unless a GQ), no CV's problems, if driving habits cooperate, but you will have to change gear ratios, else your Patrol will be SLOOOW...
To determin the above, all you have to do is multiply the diameter of your new tires (in inches) by the factory gear ratios and divide that by the factory tire diameter (also in inches) and you will get the diff gear ratio you will need; however, if yours is manual, you probably may want to use the next size up from your factory tieres for your rule of thirds, and that will give you a higher gear ratio (lower number). Either way, Nissan only makes for GU's 3.9, 4.1, 4.3 and 4.6, so that about says it all; however, you can find italian made 4.88 (won't need to go that low). In case you are not happy with your performance off-road, you can allways play with transffer gear ratios. 2.48 will do it and you can get them from Marks4wd for about $1395aus or you can go rockhopper (really good), but dont know the price. My advice is drive it first then decide if you want to mess with your transffer.
Sumarizing: The bigger you go, the more you will have to do and spend...
Hope this really helps!
If more specific info is needed, just ask. Happy to help, since I've allready been through that path.
BTW, I own a TB45, 36" with 4.625 r&p and some other stuff...
Cheers! Next time try a different approach, we are all willing to help for free, just because we love this stuff, no need to go that rout.
Yeah mate go for the 36 pedes as I'm sure with your people skills and tact you will surely be able to talk your way around your rig being massively illegal when you get defected.
Go for it mate, spend up big, this ncop is just all made up. and really 36 pedes dont stand out any more than 32 inch all terrains.
Your rig will be fooly sick man. You rock.
Go for it mate, spend up big, this ncop is just all made up. and really 36 pedes dont stand out any more than 32 inch all terrains.
Your rig will be fooly sick man. You rock.
Boo fucking hoo.. if all you have that is unroadworthy on your car is a set of 36" pedes then you wont have to get a roady (vic anyway) plus any one that runs a tyre/rim that is not on the vehicles tyre rim size placard is defectable by the police.. so ncop is pretty much inforce being that is a 2" lift only at the moment but roads say u can have a 33" tyre.. all ncop is doing is enforcing how the police defect it now..chpd80 wrote:Yeah mate go for the 36 pedes as I'm sure with your people skills and tact you will surely be able to talk your way around your rig being massively illegal when you get defected.
Go for it mate, spend up big, this ncop is just all made up. and really 36 pedes dont stand out any more than 32 inch all terrains.
Your rig will be fooly sick man. You rock.
and sure hes a idiot if its a everyday work car running round on pedes.. 1 it would cost like 10000 a year on pedes.. and 2 that is asking for trouble..
Re: 35s or 36s
Depends what width u want. If u wanna run 11.5 im pretty sure 35 are ur only option, if u want to go up 12.5 u can go 35 or 36. some ppl think 11.5 steer and clear better but i much prefer the width with my new 12.5's.Jake GQ.. wrote:it has come to the time of getting new tyres they will be simex centapedes. what i want to know is it worth the extra time and money to fit 36.5 11.5 r15 or is itjust alot easier and cheaper to go with the 35s. i havent priced eather tyre yet cheers if you could help.
true.. mate you gotta weigh up your chances.. i say get what you can afford and enjoy it.. remember if your car looks roadworthy ie some straight panels a set of mudflaps and flares.. police will barely notice..matto wrote:if you want to go in comps go 35" if its general 4bn go 36's.
Alot of the cockbags on this site spend more time on this site than 4bn and enjoying life.
if you can afford it go for the 36's they will be better on rocks as their wider
I bought 36's pedes.....then i sold 36's the pedes.
why? these tyres were so good, i didn't deserve them. My mtz's go everywhere i want them to and i wasn't too hardcore for simex, these a competition tyres.
it was a waste letting them sit around in the shed, and yeah it takes alot of time to bolt on and off and 36's pedes are really heavy. On bitumen they would only last 10,000km - 15,000km with no offroad.
ITS A WASTE
anyways here was my input,=]
why? these tyres were so good, i didn't deserve them. My mtz's go everywhere i want them to and i wasn't too hardcore for simex, these a competition tyres.
it was a waste letting them sit around in the shed, and yeah it takes alot of time to bolt on and off and 36's pedes are really heavy. On bitumen they would only last 10,000km - 15,000km with no offroad.
ITS A WASTE
anyways here was my input,=]
imo i made the swap to 35's (albeit not simex's) and have regretted the swap as the 35's are soley for road use.
In future, when the tyres wear down, i will be reverting to 33's or some such metric equivalent for my daily drive tyres.
Are these tyres going to be the only set you run on your rig? If so I would definately not recommend centipedes esp. if these will be run on the blacktop.
If you can afford it run two sets of tyres, this will give the best value v performance ratio and limit your exposure to constable care to offroad trips only.
They aint exactly a cheap tyre to be ripping up on the bitumen.
In future, when the tyres wear down, i will be reverting to 33's or some such metric equivalent for my daily drive tyres.
Are these tyres going to be the only set you run on your rig? If so I would definately not recommend centipedes esp. if these will be run on the blacktop.
If you can afford it run two sets of tyres, this will give the best value v performance ratio and limit your exposure to constable care to offroad trips only.
They aint exactly a cheap tyre to be ripping up on the bitumen.
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
chpd80 wrote:Ahh so now you tell us it is just a toy, after abusing everyone for trying to inform you of the on-road legals, ncop etc.
Dumbass x 2
dont you have the toyota section to pad out whore bag
Off rd wise, the 35x10.5 will out do the 36" simex, time and again. The 36 had better rd manners, but it comes at the cost of traction. Only thing the 36 will give you is height clearance, .....
had both, and once aired down a nearly worn out 35x10 would still out drive a brand new 36 simex..
These hoops are very expensive to buy new.......
The above post are very real, to the change in 4x4 standards, and you must always be aware, that you can get done for running these tires on the rd, crash it, and better be ready to bend it over..../
35's can be heavy on the car, but 36's and above sizes are very hard on your running gear, and gearing... If you can, borrow some and see how you go, you might find that you need to do a couple of grands worth of upgrades before you can run them, and if you do the upgrades, you might find that you don't like the 36's and as a result, you might of wasted your money.
but that's all written above....
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
chpd80 wrote:Reddo wrote:dont you have your sister to go root whore bag.dont you have the toyota section to pad out whore bag
A brand new 36 will outperform a shagged 35 if they are both aired down.[/quote]
Yeah, done her and i'm looking for more giggity
Dont you have a goat to heard lol
No, no and no, i still found the 35s out did the brand new 36's, both were aired down,
My example
All crossed up and looking to hook right uphill, the 36's just clogged and plowed straight forward, the 35's, bit deep and drove it,,,,,, to me, the 35's won the day, - it did it twice.....
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
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