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G'day I really hope someone can help me with this :(
Just got back from a 3 hour drive and noticed gear oil dripping from under the car.
Had a look underneath and it seems to be some sorta valve on the chassis for the rear air locker. So I went over it with a rag and tightened all the bolts.
Whacked the compressor on and engaged the rear locker, there was oil and air coming out of the black hose, bubbling out under pressure. Anyone have any idea what is wrong?
it looks like a small 3 port manifold.
were does the other blue line go.
you should only have on air circuit coming from valve at compressor to the diff fitting?????
Grant
GU III TD42T UFI18G Cross Country IC, 20 PSI. Neeeeeed mooooore Fueeeeeel.
The blue line on the side (far left) goes to the compressor, the blue line next to the black one goes to the diff, the black line seems to be the breather.
you have a problem with either diff breathing,not enough carrier bearing preload,worn o-rings,excessive seal housing movement or all of these combined.
you should take the car to arb to have it diagnosed and setup properly.
Agree this is good advice... you don’t have to go back to ARB if you don’t want to, ARB do outsource their fitting work etc when they are busy and there are heaps of other places than can fit and service your locker if you wish. If you don’t know of a good 4X4 shop or diff place then ARB is your answer....
dat383 wrote:you have a problem with either diff breathing,not enough carrier bearing preload,worn o-rings,excessive seal housing movement or all of these combined.
you should take the car to arb to have it diagnosed and setup properly.
It's a purge valve made by us for purging air/dust etc out of your compressor.
As all of the lines are connected, there shouldn't be anywhere on the valve for air or oil to come out of.
Check your push-in connections.
The photo makes it look like the lines were pulled quite tightly coming out of the valve, which is not ideal. They should have been left relaxed.
If you send me your email address I can send you the instruction manual on the valve.
If you need to get up and running quickly though you can unplug the blue line on the far left and plug it into the fitting on the far right at the top leaving the black line disconnected and this will completely bypass the valve and should let your diff function correctly.
So what is the black line for? Why is the air and oil coming out of it?
Not to many 4x4 shops around Ipswich that could do it I think. Have it booked into ARB next week but they said they hadnt heard of a purge valve, hopefully they can fix it and it doesnt cost a arm and a leg
After reading the doc you sent me Daniel it looks like the middle blue line (blue line on the top) is the 'exhaust' line that goes into the chassis to vent off.
So the line on the left is the line to the compressor and the black one is the line to the locker (which is the leaking one).
Cant seem to find a grub screw on this valve either, will have to give it a good clean up and loosing the black line off tomorrow.
Fmx_Aus wrote:After reading the doc you sent me Daniel it looks like the middle blue line (blue line on the top) is the 'exhaust' line that goes into the chassis to vent off.
So the line on the left is the line to the compressor and the black one is the line to the locker (which is the leaking one).
Cant seem to find a grub screw on this valve either, will have to give it a good clean up and loosing the black line off tomorrow.
That's right. The black one is pressurized when you turn the diff on, so if there is a leak in it you will not be able to engage the diff.
I'm not sure what you want with the grub screw.
It is a factory setting and it has paint over it to discourage adjustment..
Just try reseating the black tube, or replacing it with blue tube if that doesn't work.
Fmx_Aus wrote:After reading the doc you sent me Daniel it looks like the middle blue line (blue line on the top) is the 'exhaust' line that goes into the chassis to vent off.
So the line on the left is the line to the compressor and the black one is the line to the locker (which is the leaking one).
Cant seem to find a grub screw on this valve either, will have to give it a good clean up and loosing the black line off tomorrow.
That's right. The black one is pressurized when you turn the diff on, so if there is a leak in it you will not be able to engage the diff.
I'm not sure what you want with the grub screw.
It is a factory setting and it has paint over it to discourage adjustment..
Just try reseating the black tube, or replacing it with blue tube if that doesn't work.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
No worries mate, will give it a whirl. Am I right to say that oil should not be that far up the black line? Still thinking there could be stuffed rings in the locker?
Will cut the cable tie holding the black line, reseat it and see what happens. More pics will be up tomorrow night with the result.
fmx as stated the black line in particular seems to be curved to tight for straight connectors. It should have been mounted inline with a 90 degree connector or easier can you remove one mounting bolt and spin the purge valve clockwise a little. In the pic it would appear that this would straighten the path into the connectors for each lof the 3 lines but particularly the black one. It would have been handy for tube runs too if the valve was a bit further away from the black line connectors. To me it looks like they have mounted the valve in the wrong orientation in relation to the angles of the tubes running into it. Not necessarily your main problem but something that may be adding to your dramas. This would quite possibly be your answer to leaking air but no so for oil unless the air bleed is syphoning the oil back.
