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LOKKA lock right

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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LOKKA lock right

Post by xtreem »

Hey guys what experience have you had with the LOKKA lock right from 4wd systems? They seem extremely cheap at $498 but come with 3 years warranty. I have also noticed a few people on here refering to them as the cheap shitty diff locks, Please explain.
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Post by Beastmavster »

What model is $498 right now? All Zooks or just Sierra?
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Re: LOKKA lock right

Post by camskizook »

xtreem wrote:Hey guys what experience have you had with the LOKKA lock right from 4wd systems? They seem extremely cheap at $498 but come with 3 years warranty. I have also noticed a few people on here refering to them as the cheap shitty diff locks, Please explain.


All I can say is that you get what you pay for ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Post by Beastmavster »

It's actually cheaper to get a powertrax one from the states anyway ;)
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Post by xtreem »

So nobody has any personal experience with these. They are just shit cause there cheap. 3 years warranty sounds ok.
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Post by camskizook »

Do a search...ive made about 1000 posts about mine rooting itself when i had one in the rear..i dont think they are worth the trouble or the money in the rear because of wear on the driveline and tyres. They will need to be reshimmed from time to time - which is fine if you can pull a diff out yourself, but if you cant then it will be very expensive. I have a powertrax in the front which is good. IMHO i think a weld up or an air locker is by far the better option for the rear.
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lockright locker

Post by jacka »

Have had a lockright in the rear for 2 weeks now, can feel it driving on road, but isn't noisy. Paid $350 delivered from the US, so the way i see it, if it shits itself, i can still buy 2 more until its worth an airlocker and is roadworthy compared to a welded diff. By the way, i have a front locker.
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Re: lockright locker

Post by grimbo »

jacka wrote:way i see it, if it shits itself, i can still buy 2 more until its worth an airlocker and is roadworthy compared to a welded diff.


Breaking 3 of these to equal an airlocker isn't really right. You will also get the added wear on tires and other components plus the cost of either having someone put the three lockers or the time for you to do it. Ait lockers are great because they are there when you need and not there when you don't tlike dat to day driving thus saving a lot of wear and tear.

It is very rare you save over the long term if you go into it thinking if i buy this thing now at a third of the price i can then break three of them before I reach the price of the better more appropriate thing.
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Post by stumped »

was that a powertrax jacka?

do ya still get wear on the tyres with a lockright compared to an air locker? it'd still have to be a lot less than welded tho wouldn't it?
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Post by zookjedi »

with a lock rite , ez locker or any self locking diff you'll get increased tyre wear compared to an arb , simply cause with an arb it functions as a normal diff until engadged .

also note the difference with a welded diff compared to an automatic locker , weld ones being always on don't give nasty surprises when cornering in carparks or in the wet as do auto coming on off on etc.

also the auto's tend to give the axle splines a bit off a caning due to the harshness of the on off on business,
go arb, or just weld it (properly) !

i have an ez locker in the rear welded in front , rear works fine but axles and no doubt diff centre side gears will be due for replacment shortly , where as the front axles are fine , splines dont wear overnight but they will wear :D

the differance in tyre wear between welded and auto , bugger all .
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Post by xtreem »

camskizook wrote:Do a search...ive made about 1000 posts about mine rooting itself when i had one in the rear..i dont think they are worth the trouble or the money in the rear because of wear on the driveline and tyres. They will need to be reshimmed from time to time - which is fine if you can pull a diff out yourself, but if you cant then it will be very expensive. I have a powertrax in the front which is good. IMHO i think a weld up or an air locker is by far the better option for the rear.



Is this the LOKKA lock right sold by 4wd systems???????? Or the other lock rite.

Did you claim warranty???????????
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Post by xtreem »

I know the air locker is the best solution but for two of them it cost as much as a zook
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Post by camskizook »

I suppose u need to ask yourself if you need lockers?
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Post by xtreem »

I asked myself. and I answered YES.
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Post by greg »

xtreem wrote:I asked myself. and I answered YES.


A very fine decision sir :)
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Post by xtreem »

I also answered not 1 but 2.
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Post by stumped »

greg wrote:A very fine decision sir :)


what do u run in urs greg?
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Post by Guy »

Lokka = 4wd systems (Chinese made I belive)
Lockright = Powertrax (US made)
EZ-Locker = Detroit (US Made) has better spring system than Lockright .. though they are interchangeable with a lockright)

The only way to be sure is get em and run them .. what size rubber are you runnig or intending to run ?? Whne I had large rubber (32's and 33's) the detroit I had was invisable on road, tyre wear increase was not really noticeable to me. When I went to 31's the detroit was a PITA ...

The lokka next to a lockright look basically identical.

If it is not going to be a daily driver, I woud go the Lokka as it is not to expensive and does what it advertises, but may not last as well as one of the more expensive units .. If it is a daily driven vehicle and to be used heavily off-road as well ... then My choice woud be a an auto locker in the rear and air/selectable locker up front to allow better steering control.

my .02 cents ..
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Post by grimbo »

Greg has front and rear air lockers, he is he Master of Bling after all.

I had a LA Locker which is a very old Detroit in the rear of mine for awhile, then got an Air locker in the rear (the prototype for ARB). Just recently I have moved the Air locker to the front and put the LA Locker back into the rear,

With the auto locker in the rear I do notice it cracking in and out when driving around, takes a while to get used to it again but it works off road as it should and i don't mind sacrificing onroad performance for offroad performance. It can be rough and as a daily driver would ve annoying at times. granted it is an old rough version so as to how it compars to new Detroits or lokkas I don't know.

If i could afford front & rear air lockers i'd get them. Next option would be my ciurrent set up. then air locker & welded, then autos front and rear and then welded front & rear
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Post by greg »

stumped wrote:what do u run in urs greg?


Airlockers front and rear... Mainly because when i got them i was concerned with on-road driving / handling etc... Though looking back i think if i did it again i would go the welded rear and air locker front (just because it would save some money)...

I've driven mine around on road with the rear locked up (didn't realise it was switched on) and it handled fine...
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Post by xtreem »

It is a daily driver and will see heaps of road k's.
Probably on 31's possibly 32's

I don't see the need for a air locker in the front for road to assist with steering as the hubs disengage the locker anyway. Don't they.
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Post by Guy »

xtreem wrote:It is a daily driver and will see heaps of road k's.
Probably on 31's possibly 32's

I don't see the need for a air locker in the front for road to assist with steering as the hubs disengage the locker anyway. Don't they.

They do dissengae the locker .. I was thinking more for offroad .. an auto locker can make steering on slickish surfaces a PITA ..
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Post by xtreem »

Ok got you now. Shit I wish the car was worth more so I could justify buying air lockers, I just cant spend the same amount on two diffs as the whole car is worth.
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Post by Guy »

xtreem wrote:Ok got you now. Shit I wish the car was worth more so I could justify buying air lockers, I just cant spend the same amount on two diffs as the whole car is worth.


Dont get worth and cost mixed up .. the car "cost" you $2500 .. but how much fun has it got you ... so dont worry so much about cost (easy to say) .. If I worried about that .. I would have stopped spending $25000 ago (not even close to what my zuk has cost me) but it was worth every cent :D
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Post by xtreem »

Yeah I know but I have to draw the line somewhere, I have two other cars with $100 odd grand spent on them I just cant keep going. I will have to give the 2 lokka's a go.

Thanks for your help.
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Post by stumped »

ouch!! damn mud, that's a hell of a lotta dosh. i can see how u'd get there fairly easily tho :shock:

hey xtreem... what other cars have ya got that u've spent big money on?
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Post by xtreem »

97 Hyundai coupe see here www.xtreemcoupe.homestead.com and a Datto 1200 ute with CA18DET and heaps of good gear runs 11 sec. Both have been in hot4s and fast fours.
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Post by Guy »

xtreem wrote:97 Hyundai coupe see here www.xtreemcoupe.homestead.com and a Datto 1200 ute with CA18DET and heaps of good gear runs 11 sec. Both have been in hot4s and fast fours.


Damo .. have you got some BLING to catch up on ... :D
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Post by greg »

xtreem wrote:97 Hyundai coupe see here www.xtreemcoupe.homestead.com and a Datto 1200 ute with CA18DET and heaps of good gear runs 11 sec. Both have been in hot4s and fast fours.


I see the coupe is for sale - could be some locker money in there :D
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Post by xtreem »

Yeah sort of for sale I am not bothered either way,not advertising it or anything, just word of mouth. I was going to sell it and buy a new mini cooper s untill I test drove one and decided I couldnt live with the performance.
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