buying a coily URGENT

[shandy]

hey all
i have been looking at getting new another Suzuki after my vit wanted to lie down and the insurance people say the words "right off".
so i found a 96 coily sierra with 159 000ks, looks really nice but i had a search and found that they have a piston problem with #3-4 is it worth getting?
he wants $6250 but ill ask $5500.
NEED TO KNOW AS ILL BE GETTING IT AT 4 THIS ARVO if i do

thanks
mitch

[lockdup]

Pics? If your going to go crazy modiying the leafy will be a cheaper option

[bunder_ute]

hey mate..
was chatting with my engineer that we use at work. he says that the engines are prone to damage pistons.
he said that the skirt craks and ends up falling off eventually, in some cases he has seen this damage the block and blow hole a through the side

[bunder_ute]

but they are cheap as to rebuild.. just rebuilt one with a mate cost 1000 for all parts.
10thou oversized pistons
bore the block to suit
port and polish the head
rings and bearings
plus all gaskets
headbolts
everything was new.. except head and block
worked out to be close to a 14##cc

[shandy]

hi guys
i have not bought the car yet, just thinking is it worth getting?
and at what ks do the problems happen at?
if everything else is good would u get it?
im not going to go crazy on mods just so i can fit 30-31" tires

thanks
mitch

[grimbo]

so in other words going crazy. Takes afair bit to make a 31" fit and work well on a coily

[Gwagensteve]

so in other words going crazy. Takes afair bit to make a 31" fit and work well on a coily

X lots. A 31 is absolutely the limit for a reliable coiler, and you might still find that front axle strength is marginal- with no heavy duty options readily available.

I'd buy a leaf car, even for the same money. It's a 1000 times easier starting point.

Steve.

[mr green]

X lots. A 31 is absolutely the limit for a reliable coiler, and you might still find that front axle strength is marginal- with no heavy duty options readily available.
Steve.

why so? i've heard before that the coiler front is weak compared to the leaf but with the same axle size, why would it be weaker? or are you comparing standard coily with a chromo leafy?
kinda interested cause i don't mind the idea of coily diffs in my current build purely for zook width.

[r0ck_m0nkey]

X lots. A 31 is absolutely the limit for a reliable coiler, and you might still find that front axle strength is marginal- with no heavy duty options readily available.

I run 32's and have no reliability issues as far as driveline strength goes with my coily. Not driving like an idiot helps a lot.

[shandy]

hey all
thanks for the reply's, went and had another look with a mechanic friend and we noticed a lot of oil coming out of the exhaust and rear main.
told the guy ill think of about it but im not going back.

thanks again
mitch

[zukiviagra]

hey dude, check ur private msgs.

[Gwagensteve]

why so? i've heard before that the coiler front is weak compared to the leaf but with the same axle size, why would it be weaker? or are you comparing standard coily with a chromo leafy?
kinda interested cause i don't mind the idea of coily diffs in my current build purely for zook width.

I run 32's and have no reliability issues as far as driveline strength goes with my coily. Not driving like an idiot helps a lot.

r0ck - I think the last part of your post is the key.

AFAIK, coilers have a 1.3 sized CV, but with 1.0 sized inner axle splines - 22 spline. That makes the front axle weaker than 1.3, and the same strength as 1.0.

*I think the CV is smaller than 1.3 but I recall getting in trouble for this before so I won't stand by this*

The inner axles are 17.5mm or something longer per side than WT

AFAIK, the stub axles are shorter as the wheel bearing arrangement is different

I also believe it's all slightly different to Jimny.

All up, there's no source for HD stuff, It's effectively the same strength in the axles as 1.0, there's one diff ratio (3.9) There's no airlocker without machining work (of the airlocker) And it's pretty hard to find second hand parts if you do break anything.

I wouldn't be swapping them into anything, and certainly wouldn't swap a WT diff for one.

considering the gearing options and strength buildable into a WT diff relatively cheaply, and availability of second hand parts, the front diff alone makes a coiler less attractive as a vehicle.

I've spent hours and hours trying to work out how to improve the coil front end and it's really just quite hard to work out where to start. In any case, it's a lot of expensive work and experimentation.

Just my opinion. I'm not a fan. The coiler has too few advantages (a nice dash and front clip) to make all the mechanical hassles worthwhile.

Steve.

[mr green]

wow 17.5mm. i thought we were talking about 40mm per side. i did a real rough measure on a jimny one day and i thought it was about 80mm total wider than wt. but for 17.5mm i would have to agree. its wt all day for me!

[Gwagensteve]

Coiler is 35mm wider in the axles, but runs vitara rims so the overall width is basically the same as WT.

You can actually put WT axles in a coiler.... but with about a bee's rooster of spline engagement in the diff you can't put much power in to them

Jimny might be wider, but it's not by 80mm AFAIK.

There are HD axle options for a Jimny (but they are expensive) and you can airlock them, but there's still limited ratio availability - 4.1 and the mythical 4.3.

Jimny does have a better bracket abd shock/spring design and seem to break brackets less often.

Steve.

[mr green]

The inner axles are 17.5mm or something longer per side than WT
Steve.

Coiler is 35mm wider in the axles

not wanting to nagg, but am i missing something

[grimbo]

17.5 plus 17.5 = 35

they have 2 axles one each side of the diff

[mr green]

yeh thanks for that,