A couple of questions about air locker switches.
Why?
I have rigged my ARB compressor to keep a small (2kg fire extinguisher) air tank charged. I use this for a set of solenoid activated air horns up and running. I still have to search down a very minor leak in the system somewhere- the compressor cycles about every 30 minutes.
This all works fine, except for the heat generated in the compressor switch by the indicator light being constantly on.
So the questions are, will the switch handle this heat OK, or am I better off pulling the power wire to the switch light. I can handle not having one more pretty blue light in the cab.
And if this is the case, do the switches just pop out forward from their mounting holes, or are they secured from behind the panel.
Vehicle is a GU patrol, and the location is the 3 switch panel below the centre console, where the sub tank switch was originally housed.
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Air locker switch questions.
Moderator: -Scott-
Air locker switch questions.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
First thing to establish is how hot?
For me, if I can hold my finger on it indefinitely (it may be painful, but it's not unbearable), it's less than 50 degrees. If this is the case, I wouldn't bother to do anything.
If it's too hot to touch continuously I would be more inclined to do something about it - but, having said that, I've never bothered to see if I can leave a finger on my ARB switches...
The switches do simply pop into place, but you may need access to the rear to "release" the clips. I think the rocker pops off from the front, but I don't know if that gives you access to the light(s).
For me, if I can hold my finger on it indefinitely (it may be painful, but it's not unbearable), it's less than 50 degrees. If this is the case, I wouldn't bother to do anything.
If it's too hot to touch continuously I would be more inclined to do something about it - but, having said that, I've never bothered to see if I can leave a finger on my ARB switches...
The switches do simply pop into place, but you may need access to the rear to "release" the clips. I think the rocker pops off from the front, but I don't know if that gives you access to the light(s).
You can get the LED switches now.
I'm not sure if their standard yet with all new ARB lockers but you can certainly get them as a spare part.
Much better than the old filament bulb and nowhere near the heat.
I had several locker/comp switches over the years actually crack and fall apart after the plastic went brittle from too much heat from the globe.
I'm not sure if their standard yet with all new ARB lockers but you can certainly get them as a spare part.
Much better than the old filament bulb and nowhere near the heat.
I had several locker/comp switches over the years actually crack and fall apart after the plastic went brittle from too much heat from the globe.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
I got annoyed by the lights being on all the time at night so installed a couple of micro switches. One turns the lights on and off and the other bypasses the isolating switch so that if the pressure switch on the compressor fails, as has happened to me, I can still use the lockers as there is sufficient pressure in a charged tank for 3 or 4 on/off cycles. Typically since fitting it the pressure switch has not failed again - but nice insurance.
My wiring diagram is below
David
My wiring diagram is below
David
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
Re: Air locker switch questions.
This can be caused by not running a one way valve from the compressor. Air can leak out of the compressor head as i have found in some cases.BundyRumandCoke wrote: I still have to search down a very minor leak in the system somewhere- the compressor cycles about every 30 minutes.
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