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2dr range rover rollcage
Moderator: Micka
2dr range rover rollcage
Hi all im finally getting my project on its way and will be needing a rollcage for a weekend car its a 1980 2dr anything will be a help at the moment.
Thanks Tim
Thanks Tim
1981 range rover- 4"coil + 2"body rollcage, disco interior and goes better than a pootrol
I built one for my old Comp Rangie years ago out of (if i can recall correctly) 48 MM IDA steam pipe. Worked a treat too as it saved our lives when we rolled her over backwards 10 metres into a dry creek bed.
The roof was flat from the rear of the C-pillar up to the roll hoop (positioned behind the front seats) then flat down on top of the instrument panel .... it seriously saved our melons.
As there were no rear seats, I welded mesh to it and made it a cargo barrier as well. In fact, seeing as though it was unapproved, I called it a "heavy duty cargo barrier"
I've still got it as I built another one when I repaired the car and changed it from rooted to Ute-d .
The roof was flat from the rear of the C-pillar up to the roll hoop (positioned behind the front seats) then flat down on top of the instrument panel .... it seriously saved our melons.
As there were no rear seats, I welded mesh to it and made it a cargo barrier as well. In fact, seeing as though it was unapproved, I called it a "heavy duty cargo barrier"
I've still got it as I built another one when I repaired the car and changed it from rooted to Ute-d .
TD 80 Series, F&R Lockers, Winch etc
I got a main hoop made up by Mcdonald bros . It sits on the edge of the rear floor, I made horizontal measurements between the B pillars at 100mm increments and gave them height as well.
Welded on some feet that bolt to the floor with a coresponding plate underneath.
Put some tabs on the back of the main hoop for removable back stays that bolt to the wheel arches. Put tabs on the inside of the hoop top and bottom left and right for removable cross brace, so I can put the back seat in and take the kids camping.
Its comp certified 4pt.
To make it 6pt I got some 40mm electrical conduit and heated and bent it to go from the drivers footwell up the A pillar and along the roof to the main hoop but thats as far as I have got. I will take this to the benders and get them to copy it and fit it all together.
Welded on some feet that bolt to the floor with a coresponding plate underneath.
Put some tabs on the back of the main hoop for removable back stays that bolt to the wheel arches. Put tabs on the inside of the hoop top and bottom left and right for removable cross brace, so I can put the back seat in and take the kids camping.
Its comp certified 4pt.
To make it 6pt I got some 40mm electrical conduit and heated and bent it to go from the drivers footwell up the A pillar and along the roof to the main hoop but thats as far as I have got. I will take this to the benders and get them to copy it and fit it all together.
out of my mind, back soon.
I got a main hoop made up by Mcdonald bros . It sits on the edge of the rear floor, I made horizontal measurements between the B pillars at 100mm increments and gave them height as well.
Welded on some feet that bolt to the floor with a coresponding plate underneath.
Put some tabs on the back of the main hoop for removable back stays that bolt to the wheel arches. Put tabs on the inside of the hoop top and bottom left and right for removable cross brace, so I can put the back seat in and take the kids camping.
Its comp certified 4pt.
To make it 6pt I got some 40mm electrical conduit and heated and bent it to go from the drivers footwell up the A pillar and along the roof to the main hoop but thats as far as I have got. I will take this to the benders and get them to copy it and fit it all together.
Check out CCDA site for more info.
Welded on some feet that bolt to the floor with a coresponding plate underneath.
Put some tabs on the back of the main hoop for removable back stays that bolt to the wheel arches. Put tabs on the inside of the hoop top and bottom left and right for removable cross brace, so I can put the back seat in and take the kids camping.
Its comp certified 4pt.
To make it 6pt I got some 40mm electrical conduit and heated and bent it to go from the drivers footwell up the A pillar and along the roof to the main hoop but thats as far as I have got. I will take this to the benders and get them to copy it and fit it all together.
Check out CCDA site for more info.
out of my mind, back soon.
If you don't need a rear seat (eg comp car) then why run it?? Not sure on the Disco ones but the Steel backed Rangie ones weigh a bloody ton.Ye Olde Rangie wrote:Sounds good possibly a stupid question but does no one run rear seats? Id like to run them as all the cargo barrier is all setup and the discovery seats are all but in and looking good
Better off without it if it's not needed ... of course there is always that time when you might need to pick up a couple of stray Swedish backpackers
TD 80 Series, F&R Lockers, Winch etc
My first cage they wanted the removable cross brace to fixed in double shear, It was hard to build, hard to install and made rear seat access dificult. The current one is in single shear complies and is a lot more user friendly. I cut some mesh put a frame arond it and fixed it to the rear of the cross brace as a cargo barrier. It takes about an hour to remove the brace and install the seat .
out of my mind, back soon.
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