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K&N vs Uni Filter

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

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Location: Central Victoria

Post by coxy321 »

The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
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Location: New Zealand

Post by KiwiBacon »

coxy321 wrote:The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
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Location: Brisbane

Post by ISUZUROVER »

KiwiBacon wrote:
coxy321 wrote:The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
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Post by brad-chevlux »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
KiwiBacon wrote:
coxy321 wrote:The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
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Post by KiwiBacon »

brad-chevlux wrote:it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
Yet people will rather change and wash filters monthly for the whole time they have the vehicle? :?:
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Post by mike_nofx »

What are these cyclonic filters?

Landcruisers have a hi-clone looking plastic thing in the intake piping, is this to throw the dust out??

Mike
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Location: New Zealand

Post by KiwiBacon »

mike_nofx wrote:What are these cyclonic filters?

Landcruisers have a hi-clone looking plastic thing in the intake piping, is this to throw the dust out??

Mike
Basically it puts a spin into the airflow to throw the dust out. Most OEM filters housings for offroad use have something similar, donaldson ones are a great example and have a rubber beak type valve which lets the dust fall out the bottom.

Toyota had a snorkle hat which looked similar on the last of the 70 series with the 1HD-FTE, but I've only seen it from the outside. They spin the airflow and have a couple of slots to eject dust and debris.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
KiwiBacon wrote:
coxy321 wrote:The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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Location: townsville

Post by brad-chevlux »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
KiwiBacon wrote:
coxy321 wrote:The snorkel filter is a good idea, however i have seen and read about a few issues with them (ie. restricting airflow too much).

There was a RD28T GQ on here recently with this issue.

Thinking about it, you could make half a dozen snorkel filters, have them pre-oiled sitting in a bag or something, then either chuck them or wash/re-use them when you get to camp. Filter foam is cheap.
Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
i may have looked at a different brand, but it was the same concept.
$200 only got you 120cfm
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
Posts: 5803
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:02 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by ISUZUROVER »

brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
KiwiBacon wrote: Why not use a cyclonic pre-cleaner?
Nothing to clean or wash, most of the dust is thrown out of the airflow.
What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
i may have looked at a different brand, but it was the same concept.
$200 only got you 120cfm
The old type is here for $40 in 3"

How big is your snorkel???
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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Post by zagan »

ISUZUROVER wrote:How long is an MX bike engine expected to last between rebuilds???
How long is a truck engine or mine vehicle engine expected to last between rebuilds?
a) No idea.

b)A mine 4wd won't last long enough to get to a rebuild anyway.

As the ore dust rusts them out within 50,000klm to 100,000klms, if they are inside coal tunnels then if you got a 4wd lasting much longer than 3months it'd be a lucky one and all of these 4wds are tossed away as they arn't worth anything to anyone.

That's why they say don't buy a 40,000klm 2008 landcrusier ute selling for $5,000 from townsville as it'll most likely be a mine 4wd and be 2/3rds rusted out before you got the keys to it.

So the type of filter wouldn't matter anyway, even with the eletric rust protection they will still rust out it just gives a month or 2 before getting the toss.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

zagan wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:How long is an MX bike engine expected to last between rebuilds???
How long is a truck engine or mine vehicle engine expected to last between rebuilds?
a) No idea.

b)A mine 4wd won't last long enough to get to a rebuild anyway.

As the ore dust rusts them out within 50,000klm to 100,000klms, if they are inside coal tunnels then if you got a 4wd lasting much longer than 3months it'd be a lucky one and all of these 4wds are tossed away as they arn't worth anything to anyone.

That's why they say don't buy a 40,000klm 2008 landcrusier ute selling for $5,000 from townsville as it'll most likely be a mine 4wd and be 2/3rds rusted out before you got the keys to it.

So the type of filter wouldn't matter anyway, even with the eletric rust protection they will still rust out it just gives a month or 2 before getting the toss.
??? Wtf was the point of that post???

"Some mine vehicles rust quickly" - was that the point??? If it is it is irrelevant to the discussion. But FYI rust is only an issue in coal mines and mines with acidic/basic conditions.

Back on topic - MX bike engines have a very short expected engine lifespan compared to off-highway vehicles - e.g. a CAT 797 for example. Nobody would be silly enough to run a foam/cotton gauze filter on an engine which costs US$600000 to replace :D
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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Post by brad-chevlux »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote: What he said. The cross sectional area of a snorkel "sock" is far too small. I am sure they would be as or more restrictive than a cyclonic pre-cleaner.

A good cyclonic pre-cleaner can remove 50-70% of the mass of particles before they get to your filter, without clogging over time. New versions like the donaldson top spin also never need cleaning.
it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
i may have looked at a different brand, but it was the same concept.
$200 only got you 120cfm
The old type is here for $40 in 3"

How big is your snorkel???
My snorkel is 3".
What sort of air flow is it capable of?


PS we have a nice pyramid going here.
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
Posts: 5803
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:02 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by ISUZUROVER »

brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote: it's probably a price thing. the cyclonic filter i've seen that can flow enough air to keep a turbo'd 4.2L engine happy are over $500.
I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
i may have looked at a different brand, but it was the same concept.
$200 only got you 120cfm
The old type is here for $40 in 3"

How big is your snorkel???
My snorkel is 3".
What sort of air flow is it capable of?


PS we have a nice pyramid going here.
EDIT:
The versions which fit on a 3" snorkel will flow 170 or 320 cfm (at whatever specified pressure drop Donaldson have used)
http://www.odms.net.au/files/organise/d ... DD-402.pdf
Page 53


CAT also have a calculator here for their snorkel tops.
http://www.cat.com/parts/filters/turbin ... alculators
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Posts: 1009
Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 11:21 pm
Location: townsville

Post by brad-chevlux »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote: I am talking about one of these... They come in any size you want, and I am sure they are a fraction of the price you posted.

Image

They go on top of the snorkel.
i may have looked at a different brand, but it was the same concept.
$200 only got you 120cfm
The old type is here for $40 in 3"

How big is your snorkel???
My snorkel is 3".
What sort of air flow is it capable of?


PS we have a nice pyramid going here.
EDIT:
The versions which fit on a 3" snorkel will flow 170 or 320 cfm (at whatever specified pressure drop Donaldson have used)
http://www.odms.net.au/files/organise/d ... DD-402.pdf
Page 53


CAT also have a calculator here for their snorkel tops.
http://www.cat.com/parts/filters/turbin ... alculators
awsome thanks for that.
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
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