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HZJ77 Auto hubs not working
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
HZJ77 Auto hubs not working
Noob her. Can anyone help with info or wiring diagram on the auto electric hubs for an HZJ77 model with 1HZ motor. When pressing Hub button after engaging 4L, light comes on in the dash but hubs do not lock. The speedo sensor seems OK, Hubs lock if 24v applied, but they are not getting a signal from the ECU. When pressing the button relays can be heard latching, but I'm clueless as to where to look further
Steve
Tanzania
Steve
Tanzania
Thanks! I always thought the 5door leaf spring model was a 76. What's the designation for the old prado (light duty, coils all round), LJ77?HiluxMichael wrote:HZJ77 - 5 door wagon with leafs all around, 6 hole rims
HZJ76 - same, but with coils in front, 5 hole rims
Other differences similar to HZJ75 <> HZJ78
Regards
Michael
Tetanus rolling on 37's
@v8zuki
only thing i wanted to say is, that the hubs probably wont lock if 4H or 4L
is already engaged and the wheels are turning...
@dogbreath
Several versions of the old Prado were available:
-LJ78 - 2L-TE engine, Bundera-Axles, coils all around, available
with auto and manual transmission, E-hubs, power windows, sunroof;
Came as LHD and RHD model. A few LHDs in Germany, BENELUX and France, many RHD-units still running in the UK...
-KZJ77 (i had one), 1KZ-T engine, stronger axles (J8-diffs could be fitted ), about 250 units were imported to Europe, all LHD,
(African Specs.), mainly for the europ. mining companies;
-KZJ78 - 1KZ-TE engine, only JDM (RHD), aside from that the same as above;
Interior of the KZJ78:
other designations with other engines
RJ77, RJ78 (with 22R and 22R-E) - dont ask me about transm. and axle codes...
Regards
Michael
only thing i wanted to say is, that the hubs probably wont lock if 4H or 4L
is already engaged and the wheels are turning...
@dogbreath
Several versions of the old Prado were available:
-LJ78 - 2L-TE engine, Bundera-Axles, coils all around, available
with auto and manual transmission, E-hubs, power windows, sunroof;
Came as LHD and RHD model. A few LHDs in Germany, BENELUX and France, many RHD-units still running in the UK...
-KZJ77 (i had one), 1KZ-T engine, stronger axles (J8-diffs could be fitted ), about 250 units were imported to Europe, all LHD,
(African Specs.), mainly for the europ. mining companies;
-KZJ78 - 1KZ-TE engine, only JDM (RHD), aside from that the same as above;
Interior of the KZJ78:
other designations with other engines
RJ77, RJ78 (with 22R and 22R-E) - dont ask me about transm. and axle codes...
Regards
Michael
Steve,
You've no doubt long since sorted out your electronic hubs for your HZ/J 77 series - probably the same way I had to do for my wife's '93 KZJ 78 ones......change whole hub/wheel stud/disk rotor arrangement over from a generic 73/75 series manual hub set up..... this has however moved the track in about a cm each side -which means the Front left alloy rim runs very close to the tie-rod end. A spacer is required. The vehicle is not used for off road so not too worried about this but make sure I check wheel and stud threads now and again.
The electric hub system appears way too fiddly and complex for Australian mechanics (and us lay fidddlers as well....) and I could find no evidence they were ever used here. Having final taken the decision I was going to go down the replacement route - a punt that it'd fit - I disassembled them. Very impressive bit of engineering, but incredibly delicate and complex. The KZJ 78 we have is a grey import and I think the previous owner's mechanic damaged them when they did the front wheel and hub bearings - thus the 4wd stopped working thus he sold it to me for a reasonable price. It wasn't the cost in the end but just trying to track down if anyone knew anything about them. Interesting and resolved in the end but time consuming.
3.0 litre turbo 1KZTE engine goes very quickly - which means speeding tickets (Unusual in a 4wd - especially having come as I had from a 60 series). Vehicle will accelerate quickly up to 140km/h and will pull anything on a trailer. The arrangement is let down by less than perfect all round coil springs and asymmetrical axle control arm set up. Am still very unhappy with some of its bad road habits especially on uneven or dirt, corrugated roads. Have changed springs and shocks. I suspect that aftermarket springs I put in where for LJ40 bundera however.
An solid attempt by Toyota to match the Pajero at the time, but a few mismatched parts. The rear leaf springs on current new 78 4-doors say it all.
The seat arrangement is also very much made for short japanese and the back seats (despite teh nice coverings) a bit reminscent of the feel of school bus seats. My missus being 5'4" on a good day doesn't seem to notice.......
The useful thing about the new 78 series 4 door troopies is that they revive this body style - and anyone buying one of these grey imports can now get body panels (if it comes to that day where there is a bingle.....) and a car which is 16 years old suddenly looks new, stylish and the latest thing. If you're into that .
Cheers
Al
But for anyone else who ever needs to try and fix electronic shift hubs on these prados - good luck. It's probably easier just to go and get standard manual hubs housing and rotors etc from the wreckers.
You've no doubt long since sorted out your electronic hubs for your HZ/J 77 series - probably the same way I had to do for my wife's '93 KZJ 78 ones......change whole hub/wheel stud/disk rotor arrangement over from a generic 73/75 series manual hub set up..... this has however moved the track in about a cm each side -which means the Front left alloy rim runs very close to the tie-rod end. A spacer is required. The vehicle is not used for off road so not too worried about this but make sure I check wheel and stud threads now and again.
The electric hub system appears way too fiddly and complex for Australian mechanics (and us lay fidddlers as well....) and I could find no evidence they were ever used here. Having final taken the decision I was going to go down the replacement route - a punt that it'd fit - I disassembled them. Very impressive bit of engineering, but incredibly delicate and complex. The KZJ 78 we have is a grey import and I think the previous owner's mechanic damaged them when they did the front wheel and hub bearings - thus the 4wd stopped working thus he sold it to me for a reasonable price. It wasn't the cost in the end but just trying to track down if anyone knew anything about them. Interesting and resolved in the end but time consuming.
3.0 litre turbo 1KZTE engine goes very quickly - which means speeding tickets (Unusual in a 4wd - especially having come as I had from a 60 series). Vehicle will accelerate quickly up to 140km/h and will pull anything on a trailer. The arrangement is let down by less than perfect all round coil springs and asymmetrical axle control arm set up. Am still very unhappy with some of its bad road habits especially on uneven or dirt, corrugated roads. Have changed springs and shocks. I suspect that aftermarket springs I put in where for LJ40 bundera however.
An solid attempt by Toyota to match the Pajero at the time, but a few mismatched parts. The rear leaf springs on current new 78 4-doors say it all.
The seat arrangement is also very much made for short japanese and the back seats (despite teh nice coverings) a bit reminscent of the feel of school bus seats. My missus being 5'4" on a good day doesn't seem to notice.......
The useful thing about the new 78 series 4 door troopies is that they revive this body style - and anyone buying one of these grey imports can now get body panels (if it comes to that day where there is a bingle.....) and a car which is 16 years old suddenly looks new, stylish and the latest thing. If you're into that .
Cheers
Al
But for anyone else who ever needs to try and fix electronic shift hubs on these prados - good luck. It's probably easier just to go and get standard manual hubs housing and rotors etc from the wreckers.
Field-Fix for Automatic Hubs
My automatic hubs stopped working on my 96 KZJ78. I pulled the hub covers off and manually rotated the cog out. That forces the cog onto the spline to engage the hub. Put the cover back on and you're set. You still need to engage the switches to activate the front diff when you need 4WD.
Best-
Mike
Best-
Mike
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