another solid axle swap here we need some info/pics about the front control arms (land cruiser) mounts were do you guys put them for better clearence?
second is about the front driveshaft travel / drop. would we need to do something to the crossmember ( cutting or anything) for improving the ds travel ? any pics would be great
thanks
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front control arms mounts and drive shaft clearence
Moderator: -Scott-
The only SAS 3 link Cruiser assemblies I've seen use the same control arm mounts on the axle housing.
I do know if you screw around with these (move them up for clearance) you can cause all sorts of issues with handling - however there are people who have done it before.
With the driveshaft definitely use the high pinion diff this will keep the propshaft 2.5" higher than the low pinion diff and a much better angle. You will have to use a slip joint shaft the longest one we found was from a 60 Series Cruiser.
On mine we had the Tojo front uni (29mm) 60 Series slip joint and grafted on the Mitsi slip yoke to a 29mm Tojo uni at the t/case end.
It was all custom made and balanced - worked very well.
Under full flex the slip joint moved about 30-40mm and the t/case yoke less than 25mm. It's very important to get the length right so there is plenty of room for the shaft to compensate get it wrong and it will fall out under full flex. You also want at least 30-40mm yoke enagagement on the t/case spline.
I do know if you screw around with these (move them up for clearance) you can cause all sorts of issues with handling - however there are people who have done it before.
With the driveshaft definitely use the high pinion diff this will keep the propshaft 2.5" higher than the low pinion diff and a much better angle. You will have to use a slip joint shaft the longest one we found was from a 60 Series Cruiser.
On mine we had the Tojo front uni (29mm) 60 Series slip joint and grafted on the Mitsi slip yoke to a 29mm Tojo uni at the t/case end.
It was all custom made and balanced - worked very well.
Under full flex the slip joint moved about 30-40mm and the t/case yoke less than 25mm. It's very important to get the length right so there is plenty of room for the shaft to compensate get it wrong and it will fall out under full flex. You also want at least 30-40mm yoke enagagement on the t/case spline.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
my fault mate sorry, i was talking about the front ca mounts but on the chassis located? have seen ca mounts located just front off the crossmember ends or do you have anythink else to suggest?The only SAS 3 link Cruiser assemblies I've seen use the same control arm mounts on the axle housing.
I do know if you screw around with these (move them up for clearance) you can cause all sorts of issues with handling - however there are people who have done it before.
about the driveshaft / crossmember (belly) correlation our concern is after the sas conversion if we put driveshaft etc. on place will have clearence issues (ds hit/hang on the crossmember) at full flex or not? what you sugest on that? do we have to use all the staffs that you told before or it will not hang at all so no problem?
btw parts are very difficult to fount.
guys pics would be great too !
thanks for the response!
Sorry, yeah you would have to make up mounts and weld them to the chassis rails so they stay straight it has been done. Similar to how a 80 Series Cruiser is set up from the factory.
Do a search and you will find some pics of these mounts.
The front crossmember was cut out of mine and a new tube one welded in about 8" further forward but between the chassis rails. The standard crossmember hangs down below the chassis rails and is about in line with the steering box.
You will definitely have to do this mod otherwise you are correct in assuming that the axle will foul on the standard crossmember where it is now.
Mine ran the standard Hilux steering arms as with the hi-steer arms at full flex they would foul on the chassis rails.
Do a search and you will find some pics of these mounts.
The front crossmember was cut out of mine and a new tube one welded in about 8" further forward but between the chassis rails. The standard crossmember hangs down below the chassis rails and is about in line with the steering box.
You will definitely have to do this mod otherwise you are correct in assuming that the axle will foul on the standard crossmember where it is now.
Mine ran the standard Hilux steering arms as with the hi-steer arms at full flex they would foul on the chassis rails.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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