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RUF ?????
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
RUF ?????
sorry to post another thread about it i just couldnt find all the information i needed.
do i have to go high steer or X steer to do RUF, or can i get away with using just a drop drag link and diff locator.
as it sounds to me like the diff will go forwards approx 40-60 mm i will re drill perch to reduce this back to about 25ish.
plus is there anything extra i need to get if i did end up going with a hi steer kit from budscustoms( anything extra needed to run the high steer set up)?
thanks guys i am just completely lost.
do i have to go high steer or X steer to do RUF, or can i get away with using just a drop drag link and diff locator.
as it sounds to me like the diff will go forwards approx 40-60 mm i will re drill perch to reduce this back to about 25ish.
plus is there anything extra i need to get if i did end up going with a hi steer kit from budscustoms( anything extra needed to run the high steer set up)?
thanks guys i am just completely lost.
hi mate,
you dont have to do crossover etc but you just dont get the same benefits unless you do.
i did mine like your talking about, only 25mm forward, so re drilled the perchs on both sides instead of using existing holes. It was too close to one current hole so i welded in a plug first. my reason for only going 25 forward was so my spacers in the front drive shaft were big enough.
you need adjustable drag link - usually dropped. adjustable torque rod - or cut and shortened (its not a steering device so can be altered unlike a drag link). you also need extended shakles. i tried keeping the stock ones for road driving but they just sat against the chassis and there was no suspension movement, very rought ride. also need at least 25mm drive shaft spacer.
filled
ground flat re drilled and painted
flex as it is now
As you can see flex is ok but nothing like the crossover guys can get.
my 2 inch lift shockers are now limiting down travel which is not great for them, but if they didnt Im pretty sure I would end up binding up my steering and getting stranded somewhere.
ruf increases your ability to flex, unless you cross over or high steer then you limit the benefit.
But I achieved my goals and am happy with it fit 33's without rubbing.
you dont have to do crossover etc but you just dont get the same benefits unless you do.
i did mine like your talking about, only 25mm forward, so re drilled the perchs on both sides instead of using existing holes. It was too close to one current hole so i welded in a plug first. my reason for only going 25 forward was so my spacers in the front drive shaft were big enough.
you need adjustable drag link - usually dropped. adjustable torque rod - or cut and shortened (its not a steering device so can be altered unlike a drag link). you also need extended shakles. i tried keeping the stock ones for road driving but they just sat against the chassis and there was no suspension movement, very rought ride. also need at least 25mm drive shaft spacer.
filled
ground flat re drilled and painted
flex as it is now
As you can see flex is ok but nothing like the crossover guys can get.
my 2 inch lift shockers are now limiting down travel which is not great for them, but if they didnt Im pretty sure I would end up binding up my steering and getting stranded somewhere.
ruf increases your ability to flex, unless you cross over or high steer then you limit the benefit.
But I achieved my goals and am happy with it fit 33's without rubbing.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
dont quote me on this but im pretty sure 'hilux79' did ruf without xover and he ended up binding the steering and bent the adjustable drag link badly.
and as 'the hanko' said it doesnt do much except move your diff forward.you dont get much better flex and then you run the risk of bending the drag link as i said before.
look into crossover steering.its cheap and pretty easy and works just as well as high steer..you need a double welded steering arm from snake racing ($160 odd),80 series drag link,ifs steering box and a flat pitman arm..
i wouldnt waste money buyin the adjustable drag link and torque rod because in the long run your going to want to go high steer or xover.
cheers..smiley..
and as 'the hanko' said it doesnt do much except move your diff forward.you dont get much better flex and then you run the risk of bending the drag link as i said before.
look into crossover steering.its cheap and pretty easy and works just as well as high steer..you need a double welded steering arm from snake racing ($160 odd),80 series drag link,ifs steering box and a flat pitman arm..
i wouldnt waste money buyin the adjustable drag link and torque rod because in the long run your going to want to go high steer or xover.
cheers..smiley..
1991 2.8 turbo,ruf,patrol rear springs,inverted 14'' bilsteins,33's,rear locker,winch,sliders plus more...
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
Yeah thats correct. It was with a dropped drag link and maybe with a straight shortened link it would have been ok. Still don't see the point in spending money buying shortened drag links and adjustable torque rods to do this. I wish I had gone to high steer straight away.83-mud-lux wrote:dont quote me on this but im pretty sure 'hilux79' did ruf without xover and he ended up binding the steering and bent the adjustable drag link badly.
You will need a IFS steering box if you go high steer.You will also need to lengthin your frot drive shaft or go a box shaft.
Ben
If your only reason to go RUF is to move the diff forward for bigger tyres, then just drill the perches.
But if you're after something more serious with more flex and a more direct and reliable steering, then go high steer. Should easily be able to do for less than 1000 bucks. Locktup's got a special on the kit too at the moment.
But if you're after something more serious with more flex and a more direct and reliable steering, then go high steer. Should easily be able to do for less than 1000 bucks. Locktup's got a special on the kit too at the moment.
sory to hijack this thread but would ruf make it any more comfortable on the road.
longer spring+shackles=softer ride,thats what i thought anyway.
cheers..smiley..
longer spring+shackles=softer ride,thats what i thought anyway.
cheers..smiley..
1991 2.8 turbo,ruf,patrol rear springs,inverted 14'' bilsteins,33's,rear locker,winch,sliders plus more...
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
Can someone explain this to me in more detail, i have seached and havent found what im looking for.83-mud-lux wrote: look into crossover steering.its cheap and pretty easy and works just as well as high steer..you need a double welded steering arm from snake racing ($160 odd),80 series drag link,ifs steering box and a flat pitman arm..
What is meant by double welded steering arm from snake racing ($160 odd)? I looked on snake racing website and found nothing to this description. All the crossover kits i have found are highsteer and cost big $$. Does the flat pitman arm on snake racing suit the 80 series draglink?
I only want the crossover so i can get rid of the torque rod
i dont know alot on cross over but im searching aswell so if something comes up ill tell ya
im sorry but i f**ked up.
i meant superior enineering NOT snake racing.
correct me if im wrong people but you need:
-ifs steering box for x-over.
-ifs box mount from anywhere but im gettin mine from budscustoms
-you can use an 80series pitman arm so ive heard.
-double welded steering arms (from superior engineering,sorry again)
-80 series drag link running from pitman arm to the top of the double welded arm.
-standard hilux tie rod (where it is now)
and i think thats it..hope i could help..
im sorry but i f**ked up.
i meant superior enineering NOT snake racing.
correct me if im wrong people but you need:
-ifs steering box for x-over.
-ifs box mount from anywhere but im gettin mine from budscustoms
-you can use an 80series pitman arm so ive heard.
-double welded steering arms (from superior engineering,sorry again)
-80 series drag link running from pitman arm to the top of the double welded arm.
-standard hilux tie rod (where it is now)
and i think thats it..hope i could help..
1991 2.8 turbo,ruf,patrol rear springs,inverted 14'' bilsteins,33's,rear locker,winch,sliders plus more...
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
TUFF MUD 4X4 CLUB!! RIDIN IT DIRTY
Its easier if you buy the whole trailgear high steer arm kit from Locktup and but a IFS box83-mud-lux wrote:i dont know alot on cross over but im searching aswell so if something comes up ill tell ya
im sorry but i f**ked up.
i meant superior enineering NOT snake racing.
correct me if im wrong people but you need:
-ifs steering box for x-over.
-ifs box mount from anywhere but im gettin mine from budscustoms
-you can use an 80series pitman arm so ive heard.
-double welded steering arms (from superior engineering,sorry again)
-80 series drag link running from pitman arm to the top of the double welded arm.
-standard hilux tie rod (where it is now)
and i think thats it..hope i could help..
http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... e-190.html
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
The welded crossover arms are cheap but will not pass engineering.
l went with a cast double arm, a little dearer but will pass engineering.
High steer kits were still big bucks when i did mine so i went for standard crossover.
Will probaly end up a better option to buy a croos over kit like trail gears, then you get all the parts.
80 series draglink maybe too long?
Yes 80 pitman arms fit, a flat arm also works well but depends on clearances of sumps etc
Croosover with rears up front was one of the best mods i did
Matt
l went with a cast double arm, a little dearer but will pass engineering.
High steer kits were still big bucks when i did mine so i went for standard crossover.
Will probaly end up a better option to buy a croos over kit like trail gears, then you get all the parts.
80 series draglink maybe too long?
Yes 80 pitman arms fit, a flat arm also works well but depends on clearances of sumps etc
Croosover with rears up front was one of the best mods i did
Matt
'83 dual cab lux, v6 auto, duals, RUF, crossova steering, IFS rears, 35" MTRS
2000 HZJ105 turbo with extras
2000 HZJ105 turbo with extras
Im thinking i might go this way its cheaper than i thought it would be.Weiner wrote:
Its easier if you buy the whole trailgear high steer arm kit from Locktup and but a IFS box
http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... e-190.html
Has anyone used this kit as well as having done a 3rz conversion? Does the drag link clear the sump? I have standard height suspension at the moment and just need to get rid of the torque rod. I have a set of IFS rears and will be doing RUF.
For now i just need to know if the drag link will clear the 3rz sump with standard height suspension?
havent noticed any difference.83-mud-lux wrote:sory to hijack this thread but would ruf make it any more comfortable on the road.
longer spring+shackles=softer ride,thats what i thought anyway.
cheers..smiley..
the benefits are moving diff forward but as noted you can do that withour ruf, one other benfit is you use your exsisting rear springs which saves a little coin, but neither here nor there in the end.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
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