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How to secure a tool box to a vehicle?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
How to secure a tool box to a vehicle?
Just after what methods people use to secure a large checkerplate tool box to a vehicle...
I could easily drill some holes in the bottom and bolt it down, but I want to try and avoid that so in the future I don't have nice holes in it if i want to use it for something else.
Are there any easily removable ways to do it? (5-10min to remove) as well as more permanent way (30min+ to remove)
I am putting it in the back of a suzuki sierra, and its 860mm x 560 x 450, so as you can imagine it fills up the back easily.
your thoughts would gladly be accepted
I could easily drill some holes in the bottom and bolt it down, but I want to try and avoid that so in the future I don't have nice holes in it if i want to use it for something else.
Are there any easily removable ways to do it? (5-10min to remove) as well as more permanent way (30min+ to remove)
I am putting it in the back of a suzuki sierra, and its 860mm x 560 x 450, so as you can imagine it fills up the back easily.
your thoughts would gladly be accepted
tie downs would be the quickest way, but not very safe and secure. bolting it down is probably the best way but if you dont want to drill holes then thats out, unless you use seat holes as posted above, other than that, umm, not sure
but then again, 4 or 6 10mm holes arent that bad
but then again, 4 or 6 10mm holes arent that bad
MrsForby wrote: Oh I desperately truly love the taco.
Yeh, thats what I thought if I go that way.alien wrote:what about using the bolts/holes that used to hold the rear seats in?
So there's no lockable clamping systems that I could put on both the box and car to hold it down?
I was thinking of using something like a ojop fastener ( http://www.uesint.com/product/fanal.php ... ber=1.703l )
possibly replacing the loop bit for a hook to pull down on the handles, and probably some on the box and hooks on the base to hold onto.
[url]http://www.perceptible-fallout.com[/url]
94' Suzuki Sierra (stock besides upgraded lighting)
94' Suzuki Sierra (stock besides upgraded lighting)
ok - how about the hoop that the seats clip onto??? can you take the clip part off the seats, have a small hole in the toolbox for the car's hoop to come through and the chair thingo's clamp onto it to hold the box down?
then its a lever release, and still cheap as without modifying the body =)
then its a lever release, and still cheap as without modifying the body =)
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
Yes! I was thinking about using the seat hoops (on the body) to connect onto! so less points to put hoops onto the body.alien wrote:ok - how about the hoop that the seats clip onto??? can you take the clip part off the seats, have a small hole in the toolbox for the car's hoop to come through and the chair thingo's clamp onto it to hold the box down?
then its a lever release, and still cheap as without modifying the body =)
I don't have the rear seats anymore, so i can't salvage bits from them.
Will go get the bits tomorrow and see how it goes
[url]http://www.perceptible-fallout.com[/url]
94' Suzuki Sierra (stock besides upgraded lighting)
94' Suzuki Sierra (stock besides upgraded lighting)
john deere and chamberlain tractors used to have toolboxes from factory.
They are secured by a tab that sticks a hole in the back panel of the box and just a bolt is ised to hold it in place . If the box is locked then there is no way possible to remove the toolbox. Not even a bolt to undo. Once done its a quick 2 seconds to remove
They are secured by a tab that sticks a hole in the back panel of the box and just a bolt is ised to hold it in place . If the box is locked then there is no way possible to remove the toolbox. Not even a bolt to undo. Once done its a quick 2 seconds to remove
i use this method on mine with a couple of bits of angle rivited to the tray with hooks on them. you can also get the ones which can be locked down with a pad lock for securityfoonji wrote:Yeh, thats what I thought if I go that way.alien wrote:what about using the bolts/holes that used to hold the rear seats in?
So there's no lockable clamping systems that I could put on both the box and car to hold it down?
I was thinking of using something like a ojop fastener ( http://www.uesint.com/product/fanal.php ... ber=1.703l )
possibly replacing the loop bit for a hook to pull down on the handles, and probably some on the box and hooks on the base to hold onto.
01 td42 GU patrol ute, with extra bits and pieces.
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
USE CHEWING GUMdanssurf82 wrote:TEK SCREWS
dont use tek screws, chewing gum is a better option, then you know its not secure, tek screws are too hard and the heads shear off them. i have almost lost a tool box of a ute and know of others that have lost boxes because tek screws sheared off, or pulled through the floor.
If you are carrying anything heavy in it use plates under the heads of bolts to spread the load so if you have an accident the heads of the bolts dont just pull through the sheet metal tool box, same for under the floor
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