hey guys i have a hj75 ute with a 350 chev took it offroad for the first time and blew a CV in the front Diff
The diff is welded and my question is, is this the main cause of breaking the CV?
If so does anyone have any good recomendations for a good front diff setup, open diff with a locker? LSD?
also with the diff being welded and no power steering it was almost impossible to steer anywhere so im tending to steer away from a locker for that reason.
is ther later model cruiser diffs that will fit? possibly better built ones
cheers guys these are basic questions but im learning
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hj75 diff questions
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Fit longfield axels and cv's they are warranted to upto 40'' tyres with a welded front diff I think.
Welded diff is a major part of the reason why it blew a cv, they dont allow any steering or give across the driveline. Fit a auto locker or selectable locker, will be miles better than a welded front diff.
Welded diff is a major part of the reason why it blew a cv, they dont allow any steering or give across the driveline. Fit a auto locker or selectable locker, will be miles better than a welded front diff.
Normally from http://locktup4x4.com.au/
But they seem to have removed all longfield stuff from their site?. Ultimately you want the 40 series super set. About $1300ish with hub gears and HD axle seals.
A selectable diff lock you can turn on and off as it is needed. Can be turned off to allow easier steering.
A automatic locker is abit harder to explain, it is locked all the time but allows unlocking automatically to allow one wheel to overspeed the other ie during turning. THats a very basic explanation.
There are also cheap auto lockers available, ie $500, but they are of questionable strength when you've got larger rubber and decent HP. A good autolocker (detroit) and selectable locker (ARB) are of similar cost.
But they seem to have removed all longfield stuff from their site?. Ultimately you want the 40 series super set. About $1300ish with hub gears and HD axle seals.
A selectable diff lock you can turn on and off as it is needed. Can be turned off to allow easier steering.
A automatic locker is abit harder to explain, it is locked all the time but allows unlocking automatically to allow one wheel to overspeed the other ie during turning. THats a very basic explanation.
There are also cheap auto lockers available, ie $500, but they are of questionable strength when you've got larger rubber and decent HP. A good autolocker (detroit) and selectable locker (ARB) are of similar cost.
I broke CV's every trip out with a detroit in the front - mainly due to being fully loaded whilst reversing. Any locked front will increase the chances of breaking CV's.
If i were me (and i am), i'd fit an air-locker and longfields.
Wambat - not a particularly good idea to drive around with a broken CV - if it disintegrates completely the shrapnel in your swivel housing could cause the steering to lock - sort of unlikely but not worth the risk (has happened to me and others i know)
-Stu
If i were me (and i am), i'd fit an air-locker and longfields.
Wambat - not a particularly good idea to drive around with a broken CV - if it disintegrates completely the shrapnel in your swivel housing could cause the steering to lock - sort of unlikely but not worth the risk (has happened to me and others i know)
-Stu
Tetanus rolling on 37's
I had this happen with mine, smashed and sheared the end of the axle and locked the steering, couldn't turn from the opposite direction, would snap back in and do it at random intervals.dogbreath_48 wrote:I broke CV's every trip out with a detroit in the front - mainly due to being fully loaded whilst reversing. Any locked front will increase the chances of breaking CV's.
If i were me (and i am), i'd fit an air-locker and longfields.
Wambat - not a particularly good idea to drive around with a broken CV - if it disintegrates completely the shrapnel in your swivel housing could cause the steering to lock - sort of unlikely but not worth the risk (has happened to me and others i know)
-Stu
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