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vitara diff gears into sierra...
vitara diff gears into sierra...
so i may be able to get some vitara diff gears (5.12:1 i think) will these fit, i heard rumours that they do but just want to see what the go is. has anyone done this before?
Last edited by bunder_ute on Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
yes the 5.12's fit into the Sierra but you need 2 front diffs & it would be wise to get the R&P swapped into the steel carrier as the Vitara one is alloy & is fragile.
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atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
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look carefully at the real cost. I've seen plenty of people (including myself) set up gears in sierrs diffs themselves and get it wrong, resulting on poor life, noise, and broken gears.
Professional setup on gears isn't all that cheap, especially if your diff guy recommends bearing replacement or other repair work.
Also bear in mind that lots of vitara front gears are 1/2 rusty from never being run in 4WD.
5.12's are great in some circumstances, however, unless you are planning very large tyres, you'll have far too much gearing for road use once you have transfer gears.
Additionally, 5.12's don't provide sufficient low range gearing (only 45:1 crawl) to make the expense of setup worthwhile IMHO.
Just some thoughts. I run 5.12's (and transfer gears) and I found the cost of 5.12's, installed, pretty similar to the cost of transfer gears.
I'll install my own transfer gears but I won't do diffs - I've seen too many go wrong.
Steve.
Professional setup on gears isn't all that cheap, especially if your diff guy recommends bearing replacement or other repair work.
Also bear in mind that lots of vitara front gears are 1/2 rusty from never being run in 4WD.
5.12's are great in some circumstances, however, unless you are planning very large tyres, you'll have far too much gearing for road use once you have transfer gears.
Additionally, 5.12's don't provide sufficient low range gearing (only 45:1 crawl) to make the expense of setup worthwhile IMHO.
Just some thoughts. I run 5.12's (and transfer gears) and I found the cost of 5.12's, installed, pretty similar to the cost of transfer gears.
I'll install my own transfer gears but I won't do diffs - I've seen too many go wrong.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I know I run toys but I have 4.8 diff gears and combined with 6.5 t/c gears and 35s its just bearable around town and on short trips.
The 20min trip to work everyday was driving me crazy 4000rpm and slow as!
So at the moment Im running stock t/c 4.8 diffs and 35s and its good on road (with the 1600 pushing it) now I actually change gears not put it in 5th and leave it.
But saying that before lower t/c gears were available I did run 4.6 vit diff gears and 4.16 t/c, but as gwagen said to "do it properly" (I had to pay $500 to get just one r&p changed with new bearings) its not any cheaper than t/c gears that will give you great off road and decent on road to.
If its a d/d get on a gear calculator and have a play to see what rpm/speed you will be doing.
If you do do it at the very least use a seirra steel carrier in the rear I ran the alloy front in the front on 32s and was ok depends how hard you drive.
Just my experience
Nik
The 20min trip to work everyday was driving me crazy 4000rpm and slow as!
So at the moment Im running stock t/c 4.8 diffs and 35s and its good on road (with the 1600 pushing it) now I actually change gears not put it in 5th and leave it.
But saying that before lower t/c gears were available I did run 4.6 vit diff gears and 4.16 t/c, but as gwagen said to "do it properly" (I had to pay $500 to get just one r&p changed with new bearings) its not any cheaper than t/c gears that will give you great off road and decent on road to.
If its a d/d get on a gear calculator and have a play to see what rpm/speed you will be doing.
If you do do it at the very least use a seirra steel carrier in the rear I ran the alloy front in the front on 32s and was ok depends how hard you drive.
Just my experience
Nik
Gwagensteve wrote:look carefully at the real cost. I've seen plenty of people (including myself) set up gears in sierrs diffs themselves and get it wrong, resulting on poor life, noise, and broken gears.
same applies to t/case gears, though you have a better chance of getting diff gears quiet.
it is cheap if you take it to the right specialists. vitara front gears rust from never being used? never come across one yet. i have however seen some rusty ones that HAVE been used is 4x4 and seen water, or been in a fire. (and not from my supplier.)Gwagensteve wrote:Professional setup on gears isn't all that cheap, especially if your diff guy recommends bearing replacement or other repair work.
Also bear in mind that lots of vitara front gears are 1/2 rusty from never being run in 4WD.
whether you run 31's or 33's they will be fine. i aim for a rev range between 3600 and 4000 rpm, anything below 3500 will just chew through more juice, have less on tap power and make everything work harder (torque wise). 5.12's are adequate with 33's, over that may be a problem but its hard enough for me to engineer 31's (yes i get them legal) let alone trying to put anything on the road that can run above 33's. i am yet to have a customer or a friend come back to me saying they have not enough low range, there has been no noise issues and i have only had a set in a vehicle brak because the customer got it airborne, and thats one set out of a bucket load. but at the end of the day everyone likes there own thing.Gwagensteve wrote:5.12's are great in some circumstances, however, unless you are planning very large tyres, you'll have far too much gearing for road use once you have transfer gears.
Additionally, 5.12's don't provide sufficient low range gearing (only 45:1 crawl) to make the expense of setup worthwhile IMHO.
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CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
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This is no attempt to turn this into a transfer vs diff gear thread, but I will relate my experience- as I pointed out I run 5.12's in my car and consider them an important part of my car's gearing.
I have encountered rusty 5.12 gears, and I have seen lots of 5.12's that were never set up properly and were unusable or broke. I even bought 2 sets that had been victim to a "home" gear setup that I had to throw away.
All 5.12 diff gears will be second hand, and that comes with risks, and not everyone that says "sierra diffs are easy to set up" knows how to do it - but you'll only find that out two years later when they're worn out or you go to fit a locker and the diff guy tells you he has to throw out your 5.12's because he can't get a pattern on them.
you'd normally budget about $250 per end for a gear swap, drive in, drive out, plus the cost of the gears. It's generally a $1K job all up. That's without using it as an opportunity to add or upgrade a locker.
That's about the same price as transfer gears, but delivers nowhere near the spread of gearing.
I'll stand by my position that sierras need about 60:1 crawl ratio to be easy to drive in steep terrain with lockers, and everyone I know that had 60:1 now has more and/or an auto and has never looked back.
IMHO, diff gears are useful for correcting tyre size on road, but they do nothing to resolve the fact that sierras geared too tall off road.
The fact is a sierra with 31's and 5.12's as the only form of gearing correction is spinning at 4100rpm at 100 km/h, but only has about 10% better gearing off road than a standard sierra. That's poor use of $1k in my book, when the same car with transfer gears can be geared close to stock at 100km/h and have almost double the low range of the 5.12 car for the same money.
apparently transfer gears break - but I've thrown away more $ in 5.12s than I have transfer gears.
Steve.
I have encountered rusty 5.12 gears, and I have seen lots of 5.12's that were never set up properly and were unusable or broke. I even bought 2 sets that had been victim to a "home" gear setup that I had to throw away.
All 5.12 diff gears will be second hand, and that comes with risks, and not everyone that says "sierra diffs are easy to set up" knows how to do it - but you'll only find that out two years later when they're worn out or you go to fit a locker and the diff guy tells you he has to throw out your 5.12's because he can't get a pattern on them.
you'd normally budget about $250 per end for a gear swap, drive in, drive out, plus the cost of the gears. It's generally a $1K job all up. That's without using it as an opportunity to add or upgrade a locker.
That's about the same price as transfer gears, but delivers nowhere near the spread of gearing.
I'll stand by my position that sierras need about 60:1 crawl ratio to be easy to drive in steep terrain with lockers, and everyone I know that had 60:1 now has more and/or an auto and has never looked back.
IMHO, diff gears are useful for correcting tyre size on road, but they do nothing to resolve the fact that sierras geared too tall off road.
The fact is a sierra with 31's and 5.12's as the only form of gearing correction is spinning at 4100rpm at 100 km/h, but only has about 10% better gearing off road than a standard sierra. That's poor use of $1k in my book, when the same car with transfer gears can be geared close to stock at 100km/h and have almost double the low range of the 5.12 car for the same money.
apparently transfer gears break - but I've thrown away more $ in 5.12s than I have transfer gears.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
if your doing normal track 4wding wheres theres mud hills rocks and ruts wouldnt 6.5 transfer gears be way to slow for all of that bar the rocks??????
ive only ever needed 1st low for down hills and rocks drop ins
most of my 4wding is mud ruts and up hills where i need momentum 6.5 would be way too slow for any of that...........
ive only ever needed 1st low for down hills and rocks drop ins
most of my 4wding is mud ruts and up hills where i need momentum 6.5 would be way too slow for any of that...........
You do realise you can use your gearbox in 4 wheel drive don't you?wideaz wrote:if your doing normal track 4wding wheres theres mud hills rocks and ruts wouldnt 6.5 transfer gears be way to slow for all of that bar the rocks??????
ive only ever needed 1st low for down hills and rocks drop ins
most of my 4wding is mud ruts and up hills where i need momentum 6.5 would be way too slow for any of that...........
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
i don't know what your all yelling about but I'm now angry too...
wideas i don't know if you run 6.5s or not but i did and they suck on everything else then on the rocks. In low you just can't get enuff momentum to rock over things or to pop that slippery rut. apart from section on where i had to crawl i was in high range idling along...
You need to set your truck up for what you drive, and how you drive. JMO
wideas i don't know if you run 6.5s or not but i did and they suck on everything else then on the rocks. In low you just can't get enuff momentum to rock over things or to pop that slippery rut. apart from section on where i had to crawl i was in high range idling along...
You need to set your truck up for what you drive, and how you drive. JMO
Absolutely 31Zook.
I run mud in 4th low, and my motor is rev limited at 7500rpm, so that gives me 35km/h in 4th gear low range, on the rev limiter. If I need more than 35 km/h of wheel speed, I don't need to be in low range.
If I had a motor with a lower rev limit, I wouldn't run 5.12 diffs, but I wouldn't give up my 6.5 transfer gears.
I'm barely ever driving rock, and I barely ever use 1st low.
Steve.
I run mud in 4th low, and my motor is rev limited at 7500rpm, so that gives me 35km/h in 4th gear low range, on the rev limiter. If I need more than 35 km/h of wheel speed, I don't need to be in low range.
If I had a motor with a lower rev limit, I wouldn't run 5.12 diffs, but I wouldn't give up my 6.5 transfer gears.
I'm barely ever driving rock, and I barely ever use 1st low.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Like Pete said, use the other 4 gears you have?31zook wrote:i don't know what your all yelling about but I'm now angry too...
wideas i don't know if you run 6.5s or not but i did and they suck on everything else then on the rocks. In low you just can't get enuff momentum to rock over things or to pop that slippery rut. apart from section on where i had to crawl i was in high range idling along...
You need to set your truck up for what you drive, and how you drive. JMO
Mock
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Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
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Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
What do you mean wideaz?
My 4th low is 25% lower than a standard sierra's 1st low. I'll pick any available gear that has the right balance of torque at the wheels and momentum.
Steve.
My 4th low is 25% lower than a standard sierra's 1st low. I'll pick any available gear that has the right balance of torque at the wheels and momentum.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Ever heard the saying sometimes it is better to keep you mouth shut and be thought a fool than open it and prove you are one ... this is one of those times ...wideaz wrote:i wouldn't suggest going up a near vertical hill in 4th boys lol
The guys your trying to impress know how to drive and have quite a bit of experience in the bush.
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
wideaz wrote:what ever mate!!!!
here we go again, outer limits acting like wankers
im just saying a near verticle hill where you need momentum speed and traction starting for a start stop i dont think ull be using 4th
thats all i was saying
No!
Calm down, nobody is wanking yet
So you wouldn't use 4th in your car, fair enough. I wouldn't use 4th in mine either; but some of these blokes who have commented in this thread have so much gearing in their cars that 4th low is probably a sensible choice.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
AFAIK yes, 4th is the strongest gear in the box.
Wideaz, I think you are misunderstanding something about gearing.
I'm obviously a wanker, but I still don't know what you're on about wideaz. As for what gear I'd use on a "near vertical" hill, it would depend on the surface condition, the length of the climb, and the weather. If it's short and dry, I might use 1st low, and crawl it. If it's loose and dry, I might use 2nd low. If it gets longer and more slippery, I'll use taller gears to carry momentum. That will quite often leave me in 4th low, which in my case, always seems to provide me with enough momentum.
Whilst being a wanker, I've explained that my 4th low is a bit lower than 1st low in a stock sierra, (but I have much taller tyres, which gear the road speed up) so when a stock sierra is using 1st low, I really might choose to use 4th low.
In fact, my 1st HIGH is lower than a standard sierra's 1st LOW.
I don't care what combination of gears I use, so long as it gets the right result - so I'll use 4th low a lot when I'm on hills. Once I'm in 4th low though, I am in the "overlap" with high range. If 4th low isn't fast enough, or the climb is really long, I won't labour along in 4th low at high revs, I'll be in 1st or second high. However, if there's a ledge, ruts or other point that means I'm going to need to slow right down, I won't start the climb in high range as 1st high won't give me enough torque to pull away if I need to slow to a near stop, and it might not be safe or desirable to stop the car and engage low range.
I almost never use 4H though - in my case it seems that if I need the speed of high range I don't need the traction of 4WD.
PS I won't ever use 5th low, as the 5th gear idler is very small and isn't designed for high load, and jackshaft speed becomes excessive at high revs in 5th low.
I hope this helps you understand why I can't see the problem with 4th low.
Steve.
Wideaz, I think you are misunderstanding something about gearing.
I'm obviously a wanker, but I still don't know what you're on about wideaz. As for what gear I'd use on a "near vertical" hill, it would depend on the surface condition, the length of the climb, and the weather. If it's short and dry, I might use 1st low, and crawl it. If it's loose and dry, I might use 2nd low. If it gets longer and more slippery, I'll use taller gears to carry momentum. That will quite often leave me in 4th low, which in my case, always seems to provide me with enough momentum.
Whilst being a wanker, I've explained that my 4th low is a bit lower than 1st low in a stock sierra, (but I have much taller tyres, which gear the road speed up) so when a stock sierra is using 1st low, I really might choose to use 4th low.
In fact, my 1st HIGH is lower than a standard sierra's 1st LOW.
I don't care what combination of gears I use, so long as it gets the right result - so I'll use 4th low a lot when I'm on hills. Once I'm in 4th low though, I am in the "overlap" with high range. If 4th low isn't fast enough, or the climb is really long, I won't labour along in 4th low at high revs, I'll be in 1st or second high. However, if there's a ledge, ruts or other point that means I'm going to need to slow right down, I won't start the climb in high range as 1st high won't give me enough torque to pull away if I need to slow to a near stop, and it might not be safe or desirable to stop the car and engage low range.
I almost never use 4H though - in my case it seems that if I need the speed of high range I don't need the traction of 4WD.
PS I won't ever use 5th low, as the 5th gear idler is very small and isn't designed for high load, and jackshaft speed becomes excessive at high revs in 5th low.
I hope this helps you understand why I can't see the problem with 4th low.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
im the same as steve.... pretty much use exclusively low range offroad, and if im hopping between tricky sections on some just averge dirt roads ill chuck in to 4H or 2H... generally 2H cos i get to do skiddies =)
i frequently use 1,2,3,4 and 5 low... although 5 low is on a short gap between sections - so ill rev around 2500rpm and cruise in 5th to the next bit rather than stopping to change to high range and stopping further up to go back to low.
I've never used 4th or 5th on a hill climb in low, prefer 2nd/3rd and more revs if i need wheel speed - its way more controllable to just take the foot off the accelerator and let the gearing slow me down rather than jabbing the brakes.
i frequently use 1,2,3,4 and 5 low... although 5 low is on a short gap between sections - so ill rev around 2500rpm and cruise in 5th to the next bit rather than stopping to change to high range and stopping further up to go back to low.
I've never used 4th or 5th on a hill climb in low, prefer 2nd/3rd and more revs if i need wheel speed - its way more controllable to just take the foot off the accelerator and let the gearing slow me down rather than jabbing the brakes.
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WOW
all i can say is wow
i never new low range all 5 gears was worth using
i only use low range if i need it and ive never used all 5 gears if i did i would just use 4h 1 or 2 gear
all your gearing must be so slow, that i want me some now cause im not using my 5 gears in low at all
ill look into some 6.5s or higher
thanks everyone
PS i didnt mean u steve was a wanker i respect ur comments highly
all i can say is wow
i never new low range all 5 gears was worth using
i only use low range if i need it and ive never used all 5 gears if i did i would just use 4h 1 or 2 gear
all your gearing must be so slow, that i want me some now cause im not using my 5 gears in low at all
ill look into some 6.5s or higher
thanks everyone
PS i didnt mean u steve was a wanker i respect ur comments highly
You'll normally find that the "overlap" point is around low 3rd/ high first.
That said, you don't want to be driving up something in high first and "on the edge" of holding the gear, because then you can't change down into a lower gear.
Steve.
That said, you don't want to be driving up something in high first and "on the edge" of holding the gear, because then you can't change down into a lower gear.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
my overlap "take off" gear is 3rd low... ie: can come off the clutch 'normally' and take off no worries - however the 3rd low runs out of acceleration and just revs way sooner than 1st high... 1st high will net me about 30km/hr doing average-high revvs (guessing), 3rd low will have me redlining for that 30km/hr for sure... as 5th low's max speed for me is 45km/hr pushing about 5000rpm.
my gearing is calmini 5.14 tcase and 31's.
my gearing is calmini 5.14 tcase and 31's.
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