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Defender ute build up - LOTS OF QUESTIONS !

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Defender ute build up - LOTS OF QUESTIONS !

Post by GeeUte »

Hey all, I am thinking of crossing codes and doing something different from the Nissan, Toyota field and building a tuff Single cab Defender ute.

I openly admit i know sweet Fark All about them. The only time i have ever worked on them was to do a few alloy repairs when i was a panel beater.

So here goes with a few questions i hope some one may be able to help with.

Where do you get the suspension components or kits from ? - I have noticed that none of the major Aust players stock Defender bits.

What are parts - price and availability like for the 130 TDI utes ? -

Do all Defenders have alloy panels and gal dipped chassis ?


What are the older 2.5 TD engines like, and how many Kms are they roughly good for ? (not the TD5)


Do they really return economy around the 10 - 11 L / 100km ?

What are the Defender's weak points ? (axels, gearbox etc)

What are there strong points ?(approach, departure angles, etc)

Any other issues or good points you could say about them ?


Thanks in advance.
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Re: Defender ute build up - LOTS OF QUESTIONS !

Post by Petes »

GeeUte wrote:Where do you get the suspension components or kits from ? - I have noticed that none of the major Aust players stock Defender bits.

What are parts - price and availability like for the 130 TDI utes ? -


OME supply suspension kits for Defenders. There are plenty of others aswell.

Parts are pretty easy to get and aren't really any more expensive than an equivalent Patrol or Cruiser. They are easy to work on

GeeUte wrote: Do all Defenders have alloy panels and gal dipped chassis ?
Front wings, Bonnet, doors (upto about 06) roof, etc are alloy skinned at least. Chassis's weren't galvanised standard, just painted. Firewall is steel
GeeUte wrote: What are the older 2.5 TD engines like, and how many Kms are they roughly good for ? (not the TD5)
The 2.5TD is a different engine to the TDI. The TDI is very reliable and will do 500kkm if looked after and serviced properly. Ensure it has been serviced and not overheated
GeeUte wrote: Do they really return economy around the 10 - 11 L / 100km ?
Yes, maybe even under 10/100

GeeUte wrote: What are the Defender's weak points ? (axels, gearbox etc)
Front axle internals arent massivley strong but should be ok unless you are very rough or run very big tyres. Gearbox and transfer case are pretty good, although the later the car the better the box is likely to be.

On the 130 the turning circle is dreadful.
GeeUte wrote: What are there strong points ?(approach, departure angles, etc)
As stated, plus wheel travel, simplicity, massive payload, etc etc

Have a read on www.aulro.com
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Post by GeeUte »

Thanks Petes. Your a bloody champion ! The more i find out the more i like these rigs. Do you have a defender yourself ? Why is it that you dont see many of these utes out and about ?
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Post by DK »

I'll add a bit more

Suspension bits u can get from any of the big suppliers and a lot of the small ones Front springs and Shocks are the same as Disco and Rangie.
Rears however are different but Shocks are the same.
The stuff is available but not really advertised by the likes of ARB cause theres not a huge market......For instance i am friendly with a particular shop and he gave 4 sets of front and 2 sets of rear springs off the shelf to try out and see what i liked.

TDI will go for a longtime normally, mines done 300k and still kicking along nicely although theres been more than a few around die before 300k but its pretty unusal imho

There pretty underpowered but a small tweak to the fuel pump and a free flowing exhaust helps a bit (still no powerhouse).

They had trouble with timing belts but all the 2nd hand TDI's should of had this problem fixed by now or there boat anchors!

Mine has killed a few lift pumps, i now consider it a through away part and carry a spare.

Gearbox....The Output shaft can be a problem and suffer from a lack of oil and eventually die and goto the scrap bin in the sky...Its not a cheap fix but all the replacement shafts have oil galleries to stop it from happening, not sure if or when landrover did it from factory.

Transfercase are superstrong.

Clutch fork is a piece of shit!

There a awesome 4wd but an aquired taste if your handy with a spanner you simply cant beat them. They have tons of character and you get the added bonus of the friendly or as i like to say the pity wave from other landy owners!....Be warned they are a disease once it gets u thats it!!!!


Oh a few little ones i forgot, if your tall there not very comfy, the handbrake is in a prick of a spot and whoever put it there needs to be hit on the head with one repeatedly and say goodbye to your pants you will catch them and rip a hole more than once on the door latch lol..
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Post by nottie »

The LT230 can be beefed up with a single piece cross shaft from Jac Macs in melbourne for added strength.
The Handbrake can be swaped with a drum unit and assembly off a disco and mounted beside the seat (if no console).
Front diffs can be beefed up with various methods and each have there goodpoints. If the rear is a salisbury diff then they are pretty damn good to start with.
All suspension stuff can be bought allmost anywhere. Best to ask on here what works and get part numbers and source all seperatly rather then get raped from a big shop for a KIT.
As said they are a disease and once under the skin there is no going back.
But you will love them ;)
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

To clarify the model options:

Defenders/110s/120s/130s

1984-1990 110 County wagon and hardtop with 3.5L V8 or 3.9L ISUZU diesel

1985-1990 120" Ute with 3.9 Diesel only.

1992-1994 Defender 110" wagon/ute/hardtop with 2.5L 200Tdi diesel

1994-1999 Defender 110" wagon/ute/hardtop and 130 (127") single and dual cab utes with 2.5L 300Tdi engine.

All of the above diesels are good. The ISUZU diesel drinks 1-2L/100km more, but makes up for it in low down torque and overall strength.
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Post by 6.5 rangie »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
1985-1990 120" Ute with 3.9 Diesel only.

The ISUZU diesel drinks 1-2L/100km more, but makes up for it in low down torque and overall strength.
If i were to do a cab chassis model, this would definately be the pick, stick a turbo, intercooler and fuel it and away ya go :) . Whatever model you choose, this would be the motor of choice
Damien


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Post by GeeUte »

Right o, cheers for the clarification.

The model utes I have been looking at are around the 95 - 96 model, thus making them the 300 Tdi engine. Is this engine just a touch more refined then the 200Tdi and got electronics ie: you can chip it ? Any other differences ?

Have been looking on the MR Automotive site - seems to have all the good gear. The Defender style side ute in the gallery

http://mrautomotive.com.au/index.php?op ... &Itemid=33

- is that still a 110 ?

Sorry if my questions seem a bit thick. Im just starting to learn after a lifetime of toyota's and nissan's !
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Post by DK »

Yes the 300tdi is a little more refined than the 200 but has no electrics so cant be chipped....most common mod is tweaking the fuel pump and a free flowing exhaust but still no powerhouse.

That ute on MR's site looks like a 90 SWB or possibly a hybrid 100 but someone on here is sure to know that truck
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Post by GeeUte »

Cool thanks DK. Yeah i do like that rig anybody know who's it is or anything abou it ?
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Post by goldrover »

The vehicle in question is a defender 90 with a 300tdi & 4 speed zf auto. Can t remeber the exact milage but has done very little. It ws bought new for a png owner and is now owned & refurbished by a then LR Australia employee. It was for hire for corporate events etc as a show car not sure if it still doing that type of stuff

cheers
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Post by GeeUte »

90 hey, cheers goldrover. Its a top looking rig. I dont now why you dont see many tuff single cab defender utes ? Im still on the hunt for mine !
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Post by DK »

Gee i dont think LR ever sold a single cab Defender Ute in Oz, someone correct me if i'm wrong? Plenty of tray backs but i'm not sure on utes.

What you can do Gee is buy a 3 door Hardtop and unbolt the roof,rear door and the top half of the sides and bolt on a single cab roof and rear window and then find a tailgate off a series Landy. Theres a few around that have been done like this, an old member here did it to his.

I'll get around to doing mine one day they look awesome!
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Post by GeeUte »

Yeah there is a few single cabs for sale on carsales at the moment DK. Not sure on the official LR jargon but thats what I call them !

So is it that easy as in they all interchange ? You can remove said panels and simply bolt on a single cab roof and rear window assembly ?


That will give you a sealed single cab with a tub tray / style side ?

Sort of like the ute in the latest 4WD Custom Action 4x4 Monthly Trips, Tracks, Techniques and Locations :D magazine ?
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

GeeUte wrote:Yeah there is a few single cabs for sale on carsales at the moment DK. Not sure on the official LR jargon but thats what I call them !

So is it that easy as in they all interchange ? You can remove said panels and simply bolt on a single cab roof and rear window assembly ?


That will give you a sealed single cab with a tub tray / style side ?

Sort of like the ute in the latest 4WD Custom Action 4x4 Monthly Trips, Tracks, Techniques and Locations :D magazine ?
All panels bolt on/off.
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Post by DK »

Have a read of this thread, he converted a 3dr Hartop into a ute.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tuto ... d-top.html
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

The above link pretty much covers it. I also converted a 3dr hardtop into a ute.

In QLD at least, no mod plate (engineers certificate) is required, as the modification is a bolt on/off conversion from one factory option to another. There is no QLD mod code for it.

However it still took ~1hr at dot - them phoning their technical people in head office and my engineer/blue plater for them to all agree that was the case.
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