GQ RB30 turbo project

[4WD Loony]

I am putting a vl turbo and injection onto my patrol rb30. Can I use the standard vl injectors and computer? And is it better to go high compression and low (7psi) boost, or lower compression and higher boost?

[nzdarin]

How much power do you want and then work backwards.

[cooki_monsta]

read nuttergq's turbo thread, thats a good starting point for a turbo rb30

[4WD Loony]

I have read nutters thread and I don't want to go with gas.

[Nat84]

I am putting a vl turbo and injection onto my patrol rb30. Can I use the standard vl injectors and computer? And is it better to go high compression and low (7psi) boost, or lower compression and higher boost?

standard vl turbo injectors and computer?

or just non turbo gear??

if anything i would use the turbo injectors and computer...as for the compression. if your happy to run 7-10psi the motor will be fine any more then that i would think about lowering the compression

[cooki_monsta]

pretty much what he just said, use the rb30 injection gear, std turbo computer, etc, bolt it all up and ull be sweet

[PGS 4WD]

You can use the std computer and all the stock gear as long as you use the stock low comp. turbo engine. A stock computer can support more boost, if you put them on a dyno you can wind them up to a safe limit where fuel mixture and timing are still OK.

Joel

[lukiss99]

The RB30 bottom ends are suprisingly strong. Plenty of NA RB30's have had turbos strapped to the side and make over 300hp, without rebuilding the bottom end. They will handle decent amounts of boost (17psi) even with the standard 9.5:1 compression, though you probably aren't chasing figures like that.

Put a piggyback air/fuel computer ontop of the standard turbo ECU and you could start messing around with injectors sizes and such.

[NutterGQ]

Stock VL Turbo ECU (3TM and 3TA) can run up to about 12psi on stock VL Turbo injectors, anymore than this look at a nistune chip or stand alone ECU.

High Comp Bottom ends are no different in strength to low comp so if your not planning to run more than 7-10PSI go High comp as youll have more power off boost and more boost earlier, the fact I run gas is irrelevant the theories are the same petrol or gas.

Now if you go VLT ECU you will need a VLT loom and not standard EFI as they have a knock sensor, not having one will send your timing back in the dark ages, you also need an AFM and this can cause problems if you put it in the wrong part of your cooler piping (if your running one).

Theres lots more to setting them up but on a 7psi setup stock VLT stuff will do, it will be better than carby but it will still be slow.






Edited as I said intake when I meant loom as corrected down below sorry guys, shouldn't post when drinking lol.

[bigcam]

Now if you go VLT ECU you will need a VLT intake and not standard EFI as they have a knock sensor, not having one will send your timing back in the dark ages,

the knock sensor is in the side of the block not the intake, the N/A inlet manifold has longer runners with a more even distribution of air across the ports, providing more tourque at lower rpm and slightly earlier boost. not having the knock sensor the ecu will refer to the base timing map and will not retard when the engine is pinging, if you run 98 RON fuel all the time with 7-10 psi and 15degrees BTDC base timing you will be fine. the timing map for the ecu will be for 7.5:1 compression ratio so will be a bit too aggressive under high load (boost), this can be countered in two ways retard the base timing a few degrees and loose some responsiveness off boost, or run a nistune or similar and put it on the dyno and back off the timing in the parts of the map that matter.

you also need an AFM and this can cause problems if you put it in the wrong part of your cooler piping (if your running one).

the AFM by design is not supposed to carry pressurized air, however i have seen it done many times before being put into the cold side (between the cooler and the throttle body) and it seems to work OK, the air temp sensor is part of the air flow meter so if you have an innefficient turbo setup (no/crap cooler & small turbo) then this may safeguard against underfuelling (up until 100% injector duty anyway) also a restriction before the turbo will reduce efficiency more than one after as the air is being pushed through rather than sucked through, but having said that i have left mine attached to the airbox as nissan intended it. the MAF reading is critical as these ECU's do not map from TPS (TPS only gives the ECU a closed or not closed signal, the variable output & WOT output is for the AUTO computer only) or manifold preassure, its soley 2D RPM v MAF. so if the AFM is a bit up the shit or getting a skewed reading because of incorrect installation then the whole map will be off.

Theres lots more to setting them up but on a 7psi setup stock VLT stuff will do, it will be better than carby but it will still be slow.

so short answer take all the n/a injection gear and get it running (dont forget the fuel pump) then change the ECU for a 3TA or 3TM and the injectors ofr vlt ones (or ET pulsar or BMW733i) 0000001 on the injector body dark brown/grey or green) and bolt the turbo on, then just put it on a dyno to check the a/f ratios, and any detonation and you will be fine, and about 40-50 rwkw up on stock. (id also get a 3" mandrel bent exhaust and grind away the lip on the stock vl dump pipe (just inside the 3 bolt flange)

[B.D.R]

I have bought a GQ shorty with a RB30 Turbo, the thing fly's .

As far as i know it run's all standard VL turbo stuff, including the computer, and has put out 150rwkw on 35's .

If any body want's to do this conversion, don't um and ahh just do it i say, and the Patrol is here if any body needs to see how it all goes together if you're in Melbourne.

Chris

[4WD Loony]

Since I last posted, I have done the vl turbo conversion. I am running the standard VLT manual computer and injectors. I have put an top mount intercooler on it and running 12psi. The old girl goes good. One problem though, fuel. She loves heaps of it. Does anyone know what else I can check to get some sort of economy. I have check the o2 sensor, the three wires to the o2, the coolant temp sensor is within range, the air flow is working. I am having problems making the LEDs flash at 2000rpm. Put standard vl computer in and still no change.

[NutterGQ]

first things first how many litres per 100 is it using, what size and type of tyre how much lift does it have...roof racks? bullbar lights etc? and how do you drive it? at what speed do you start using 5th gear? etc

[4WD Loony]

I am using 26 litres per 100kms, running 33 tyres, and change into 5th gear at around 90ks. I usually drive normally, not going over about 7psi. It is set up to go to 12psi, but I usually don't let it go that far, because I don't know what the A/F ratio is doing. I also put an intercooler on the top of the engine, if that makes any difference. When I go down hills, or just back off coming up to lights it pops through the 3 inch exhaust.

[B.D.R]

I get around the same

I know my O2 sensor needs replacing, and i will clean the AFM one of these days as well.

This i have on good autority will help with the Fuel usage, hope so as it only see's Premium

[NutterGQ]

umm thats good figures, you realise its a GQ and not a VL right?

[4WD Loony]

I used to get 20ks per hundred with a dirty old carby motor. Not many cars of this size with around 3L engines do this badly. I still think that it should be much better than that.

[NutterGQ]

You've gone from making 100kw at the flywheel to 200-225 approx at an increase of only 6 litres per 100km, that's good you've doubled the power without doubling fuel consumption, I've set a few up now and all use mid 20litres mixed cycle, its about average. To make power you need more air, to burn you need more fuel....double the power and only a pissy increase your doing well. Plenty guys on here have stock 4.2s drinking closer to 30LP\H at much less power than yours....and u didn't say how much lift, bullbar etc...all adds up...

[4WD Loony]

Just filled up again and the figures are more like 225kms to 69litres. That is about 30L per 100. And thats after I had some bloke tune it on a dyno. I am a bit sus on him though. The problem is I spent 780 bucks and I dont know what he has done to make it worse. By the way Im running a 4 inch lift, 2inch cab lift alloy bar, and thats about it.

[NutterGQ]

For that money do you have a nistune board in it? With the dyno work did he give you a print out showing a\f?

[4WD Loony]

No I don't have a Nistune board. What is it and where do I get one? Is this going to allow me to adjust a/f ratios? The bloke I went to said I need a new computer for a nice price of 3500 grand, I told he thanks but no thanks. Who has that kind of money lieing around. Don't get me wrong, I will spend it if it works, but there has to be a cheaper option. Who else is running standard equipment and what are your figures for litres per hundred?

[B.D.R]

Here's the Forum for the Nistune

http://forum.nistune.com/

I would be finding a new Tuner, have a look where the local turbo brigade take there cars, if there is a few VLT there all the better.

[THICKNICK]

am reading with interest fellas, am about to do the conversion myself, but after much reading a lot of people seem to be having troubles and are being charged a fortune to do it.

i was thinking along the lones of buying a stock vl turbo (some selling around 2000 that are damaged). and unbolting engine and dropping it in, including wiring loom and computer, changing to top mount manifold and modify exhaust from the vl to suit. amyone else think this would be the way to go. or am i going to run into troubles.

i just think it would be easier and cheaper.

[bigcam]

alrighty.. i get around 400 per tank driving very nicely, off boost on 32's.

so it shouldnt be that bad, the biggest way to save fuel is to back off the loud pedal.

as for paying 780 bucks to get the standard ecu tuned? wtf did he "tune" cant adjust fuel pressure, cant adjust the ecu, can only adjust the idle mixture screw on the AFM, i would check that is within specs or replace the AFM with a new one.

as the nissan system only uses the AFM for the load scale, it doesnt look at throttle position or manifold pressure, so if the AFM is dodgy it will mess with your happiness. also the AFM self cleaning program will only activate if the speed sensor sees > 20 km/h being that the sensors are not compatible with each other i would think this has been disconnected and may be causing issues, you will need to squirt some cleaner down the AFM every few months.

check fuel pressure, make sure its correct at idle (20 inches of vac) and at no vac (pull the vac line off).

also are you running vl turbo injectors (000001 part number dark brown body) and a vl n/a or skyline ECU if so you will be using a heap of fuel, the injectors are about 30% bigger so if the n/a ecu is openeing them you will be using 30% more fuel.

as for running the 9.0 high comp n/a bottom end, with a turbo, the major issue is the timing as the timing map is too agressive for boost, there are two options, reduce the base timing from 15 degrees BTDC and run lowish boost, or install a nistune board or aftermarket ecu and completely remap, if you are not chasing huge HP then the former is a good option, if you want to chase big power then the latter will save you time and money in the long run.

so in short, replace the AFM, check the fuel pressure, make sure you are running turbo ecu with turbo injectors, and drive more gently.

they are your options!

[MONGREL]

alrighty.. i get around 400 per tank driving very nicely, off boost on 32's.

so it shouldnt be that bad, the biggest way to save fuel is to back off the loud pedal.

as for paying 780 bucks to get the standard ecu tuned? wtf did he "tune" cant adjust fuel pressure, cant adjust the ecu, can only adjust the idle mixture screw on the AFM, i would check that is within specs or replace the AFM with a new one.

as the nissan system only uses the AFM for the load scale, it doesnt look at throttle position or manifold pressure, so if the AFM is dodgy it will mess with your happiness. also the AFM self cleaning program will only activate if the speed sensor sees > 20 km/h being that the sensors are not compatible with each other i would think this has been disconnected and may be causing issues, you will need to squirt some cleaner down the AFM every few months.

check fuel pressure, make sure its correct at idle (20 inches of vac) and at no vac (pull the vac line off).

also are you running vl turbo injectors (000001 part number dark brown body) and a vl n/a or skyline ECU if so you will be using a heap of fuel, the injectors are about 30% bigger so if the n/a ecu is openeing them you will be using 30% more fuel.

as for running the 9.0 high comp n/a bottom end, with a turbo, the major issue is the timing as the timing map is too agressive for boost, there are two options, reduce the base timing from 15 degrees BTDC and run lowish boost, or install a nistune board or aftermarket ecu and completely remap, if you are not chasing huge HP then the former is a good option, if you want to chase big power then the latter will save you time and money in the long run.

so in short, replace the AFM, check the fuel pressure, make sure you are running turbo ecu with turbo injectors, and drive more gently.

they are your options!

Im about to start putting the N/A injection on mine.

Turbo in the future. Can the issue with the N/A ECU and tubo injectors be fixed with the Nistune Board? Or can the N/A injectors be used with a low boost application? Wasn't the stock boost on a factory VL turbo 6psi?

[bigcam]

just run vlt injectors and vlt ecu, there ar emore differences than the fuel map.

[striga22]

I am putting a vl turbo and injection onto my patrol rb30. Can I use the standard vl injectors and computer? And is it better to go high compression and low (7psi) boost, or lower compression and higher boost?

i drove my rig into a rive and stuffed my ecu so i threw in a standard one to get home and yeah you can but the only problem i was haveing was it pined at 9 psi so you can run it but not for long

[MONGREL]

I've just pulled a turbo engine from a vl, wiring the lot.

The ECU i pulled from the car has 3EA on the sticker and not 3TM or 3TA as suggested above.

Is this a N/A ECU ?

I got a second one with the car, not too sure its even a VL one, but the plugs look the same. It has a smaller silver sticker with 52 in blue writing??

EDIT. Ok well makin sense now, 3TM-3ltr turbo manual, 3TA-3ltr turbo auto.
What i have 3EA-3ltr, electronic injection, auto. Pretty obvious really

Anyone got a 3TA they will part with cheap

[naif]

if it is popping on decel down hills etc then its still getting fuel when it shouldnt be.

you need to check and adjust the tps/idle switch.

either that or you have leaky injector seals.

[MONGREL]

Its not running, the bloke i got it from cracked a piston in the turbo engine.
He's put in a N/A bottom end, wouln't listen a cranked the boost up again and think its blown a head gasket.
I've just pulled that engine out with everything on it.
Im planning on just puttning all the turbo gear on the stock RB30 in my pootrol.
Problem is it came with N/A auto computer. Not the turbo one.

found this http://members.optushome.com.au/smbrooks/turbo.htm

Useless without turbo ecu.