timing belt help

Post by **DUDELUX** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:41 pm

i had to go to narellan today (from wyong)to pick up some rims, took roughly 3hrs(shithouse traffic) to get there and another 3 to get back.
just after i got on the hume hwy going south the t-belt dash light came on and stayed on, i freaked and slowed down to 80. got to narellan and waited about 30mins, before starting the car to come home. the light stayed on the whole way home too. i took it very easy all the way home, i didnt go over 80 all the way home.
im guessing the timing belt is on its way out,
the lux didnt blow any smoke, didnt get hot, and didnt use any oil, or leak any. im just confused as to why the dash light would come on but nothing else would happen.
last time i went through some deep mud i had to hose out the alternator as all the dash lights came on, but only the t-belt light is on.
ill hose the alt out in the morning before the engine gets hot.
anyone got any ideas, if it is the timing belt dying, whats involved in replacing it, eg, cost etc.
thanks

Post by **Chucky** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:55 pm

The t belt light is turned on by the odometer when it hits the 100,000km mark and multiples thereof.
To turn off, you remove the little rubber grommet in the clear dash cover and with something small press the little button behind it. Just remember to change out the belt ASAP as it if snapps the valve will hit the pistons.
If it just came on randomly, I'd check for a earth in that lightcircuit.

Post by **SIMMO84** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:56 pm

Its just your dash saying you need to change your belt by the reccomended service intervals.

Post by **DUDELUX** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:17 pm

so how hard is it to change belt, can i do it at home or am i better off getting a professional to do it, what are the costs for all the bits i need to do it in the shed, roughly what will it cost me if i was to pay someone??
i was planning on going wheeling tomorrow, thats gone now.
thanks

Post by **SIMMO84** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:18 pm

Dude, seriously, drive it. An extra few hundred KMS wont hurt it. If you have a decent Puller to get the Crank pully off and a gregories manual you will be right. Im pretty sure you can get a timing belt kit that has all of the pullies/tensioners, crank seal, cam seal. Better off doing all that at once so your not doing it again in 3 months. While your in there bash a water pump into it at the same time.

Post by **berad** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:28 pm

I'd go wheeling tomorrow about, toyota has to understate the lifespan of things like that.

You don't even need a puller, there is tapped holes in the pulleys so you can wind in bolts which force the pulley off the key.

Id take a stab and say it would cost around $300 in parts with a waterpump timing kit and front seal.

It would cost around 600-800 i'd say at a shop.

As was said even 10000k's would be ok but your better of not tempting fate, a kit cost me around the $160 mark, dont be a tight ars3 when it comes to timing etc buy toyota belts and seals.

It will take you longer to remove the radiator and all the other crap just to get a clear run at the timing cover etc. its not rocket science there is timing marks that line up, Before removing the belt to stop confusion align the crank at tdc1. Once you think you have it right and apply pressure back to the tensioner, do 2 full revolutions BY HAND of the crank, all the marks should line up perfectly again. You can't mess it up so long as you double check the marks realign to their marks.

Every part on a motor i would never use anything but genuine, as far as timing belts, water pump etc etc.

Fire the motor before putting it all back together just to double check Everything is right, before you spend an hour or so putting it back together to find out its wrong.

And that is the end of my novel haha.

Post by **thehanko** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:22 pm

im in the middle of this at the moment, dont stress if it takes you a few thousand k's to get it done. but dont forget about it!

you could just replace the belt (anything from $70 for the part) but while your in there fit as full kit so you know that end of the engine is sorted for another 100, 000 without out worrying about it.

Kits inc, timing belt, cam seal, crank seal, idler and tensioner pulleys/ or just bearings for these and new water pump cost $195 and up. plus new coolant.

I have been quoted $260 - $440 to fit said kit. so from $455 fitted inc parts

I do most work on my car, but have decided I cant be bother with this - from what i know its time consuming and fiddly rather than too technical. one site suggested that you expect to spend an hour just getting the belt on as they had trouble lining up teeth etc.

Post by **berad** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:12 pm

It shouldn't take you more than 15 mins once the cover is off, that includes changing the tensioner and putting the new belt on, (not including the seals), as the tensioner takes up the slack you have to remember that it will pull the cam or injector pump back a notch depending on where you have the slack so you move that gear 1 tooth past the mark and as it tensions it will pull it back into line, put the new tensioner on with the spring on and pull the tensioner back so it's not applying pressure to the belt and lock the bolt off so it can't move, get everything on and in place, then loosen that bolt and the tensioner will do its job, make sure the belt is firm and tighten the bolt to hold it in place, and as i said turn the crank by hand 2 revolutions, all 3 marks should realign and then it can't be wrong.

If it took them an hour just to put the belt on they shouldn't have attempted it in the first place haha.

Post by **DUDELUX** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:10 pm

ive asked 1 mech about this and he quoted me 1500-1700 to replace belt, seals, water pump, etc and he needs my car for 2 days. i almost shat myself when i heard this, i know its a bastard of a job so im hoping hes over qouting ridicuously so i go elsewhere.
any thoughts??

Post by **Mosko111** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:28 pm

hey mate, his quote will be so high because of the labour involved in pullint the radiator cowling, fan belts, fan and whatever else of and out of the way before they can even start to pull the timing belt of, it owuld be worthwhile changing the tensioner and water pump at the same time because of where they are located,
if you have a manual and time and tools you could do it yourself with just the price of parts, i did mine in the cruiser with the help of crazyeyes and it took half a day or more, but only because of having to remove and put back in everything that was in the way,

Post by **dmcruising** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:29 pm

i'd say he's ripping you off. a couple of years now but i had the tensioner fail so had to get a new belt and tensioner and was a little over $400 including parts and labourand had the car back in 2 hours

dave

Post by **thehanko** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:04 pm

some places quote high to account for issues involving getting the crank timing belt drive pulley off - they can be a bugger.

I had mine done last week. cost $220 delivered for full kit including seals etc all new belts for air con, power steer alt etc. water pump etc too. east cost 4wd on ebay were so cheap for this kit!

quoted $260 for labour.

the last bit fell in a heap, the guy couldnt get the drive pulley off... tried to heat it and all the rest, in the end it had to be cut off. the new pulley cost $90 from toyota (none aftermarket i could find).

then my air con got bumped and what had been a crack - blew out so that had to get sorted as well.

in the end it cost just under a grand

but the actual work i wanted done was $670.

The most expensive quote i got from anyone was $670 walk in walk out at and engine rebuilders.

your quote is stupid high.

Post by **Squeak** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:35 pm

I did mine myself and it took me little over 5 hours from start to finish. (never done one the lux before)

Hardest part was getting the crank pulley off. If you keep spraying WD-40 on the bolt for a few days before hand then it helps to get it off. I took the starter motor out and used a large screwdriver on the ringgear to hold it while the missus used a breaker bar and an extension pipe. You can't really get an impact driver in there as it's pretty tight.

I replaced the water pump, crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, tensioner and idler pulleys and all new fan belts and radiator hoses and flushed the cooling system.
Whenever you get a timing belt done you should get the water pump and crankshaft and camshaft oil seals replaced at the same time. The water pumps really only have about 120,000 reliable km's in them. Getting it all done at once saves on labour down the track.

I got all parts from Terrain Tamer. There timing belt kit comes with new oil seals, idler pulley and tensioner. All up parts cost me about $300 not including coolant.

Add to that 5 hours of labour (i'm not a mechanic they should be able to get it done faster) and the qoute you got was absolutely rediculous.

Post by **mental1** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:53 pm

done mine on the weekend belt cost $36 at bursons at west gosford took bout 40 minutes shit if anything else goes it dont take long just make sure you got a good puller

Post by **DUDELUX** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:54 am

i just got the feeling that the guy that quoted me didnt want to do it. ill keep hunting quotes locally, its been too long since i had to find tdc.
i would replace everything at the same time(water pump, seals, etc)
but if anyone in the wyong/central coast area knows how its done and would like to help me, then i would certainly be very grateful. and a case/bottle of drinky would find its way to you.

let me know

Post by **DUDELUX** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:47 am

anyone?? please help me do this work, theres a bottle or case in it for you, maybe even 2.

Post by **thehanko** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:28 am

DUDELUX wrote:anyone?? please help me do this work, theres a bottle or case in it for you, maybe even 2.

from the research ive done the full job is more work than a case or 2. but you might get lucky.

ring around a few mechanics you will find most are reasonable for the labor, but check out east coast 4wd for parts they were so cheap!

Post by **DUDELUX** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:39 pm

maybe 3 then?? any takers?? or would cash be better for some??

Post by **joel HJ60** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:46 pm

Squeak wrote:...while the missus used a breaker bar and an extension pipe.

Post by **wompy** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 6:31 pm

[/quote]but check out east coast 4wd for parts they were so cheap![/quote]

my crankshaft or camshaft seal is pissing out oil so im going to do the timing belt at the same time, i looked at the east coast 4wd website (www.4wdspares.com) and the price of there stuff looks pretty good whats the quality of there products like?

Post by **thehanko** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:26 pm

wompy wrote:

but check out east coast 4wd for parts they were so cheap![/quote]

my crankshaft or camshaft seal is pissing out oil so im going to do the timing belt at the same time, i looked at the east coast 4wd website (www.4wdspares.com) and the price of there stuff looks pretty good whats the quality of there products like?[/quote]

i asked the mechanic about the brands supplied and he said all was fine. all japanese. he had no concerns with it and asked for the contact details for wherei got it from.

my kit was 180 plus $10 shipping, and $30 for all the fan belts etc.

Post by **UhhOhh** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:52 pm

Squeak wrote:
Hardest part was getting the crank pulley off. If you keep spraying WD-40 on the bolt for a few days before hand then it helps to get it off. I took the starter motor out and used a large screwdriver on the ringgear to hold it while the missus used a breaker bar and an extension pipe. You can't really get an impact driver in there as it's pretty tight.

Glad your missus is willing to help you work on your rig, mine hates getting her hands dirty.

Though you could of braced the breaker bar and pipe across your chassis rail and cracked the nut by turning the engine over half a rev. Have lost count the number of crankshaft bolts I've done this on and never had a problem.

Post by **DUDELUX** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:19 pm

i also have an outers sticker set. a big drive it logo and little logos. maybe if any1 could help me out, i could give sticker as part payment.
well??

Post by **UhhOhh** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:47 pm

Is it the 2L engine? Do you have a service manual for the torque specs?

If you bring it to Newy sometime I'll help ya out.

Post by **DUDELUX** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:12 pm

yeah its 2l 2.4lt diesel. i have owners manual. its a haynes book.

Post by **RAY185** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:43 pm

Whatever you do wether its doing it yourself, getting someone to help you or paying a workshop to do it. Do it properly. Replace the timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump. I would also suggest to replace the cam and crank seals too while you're there. You only really want to pull that timing cover off once every 100,000km and missing any of these parts means you'll be back in there much sooner. If its the tensioner or idler that fail it means valve to piston damage and a recon engine as this IS an interference engine. If its water pump and you don't notice then you'll cook the head. Use decent parts too, preferably a Gates belt rather than a Dayco. Do it right and do it once I reckon. Otherwise feel free to skimp and try your luck.

Post by **yamaha__308** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:22 pm

Yep, what Ray said.

I went as far as genuine belt and seal, and used non-genuine bearings.

Post by **yamaha__308** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:24 pm

Yep, what Ray said.

I went as far as genuine belt and seals, and used non-genuine bearings.

Post by **SIMMO84** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:05 pm

Have a go at it yourself, there a piece of piss. The only spiecal tool that you will need is a puller (last i checked there about $60) remove radiator (easy 4 bolts) fan and its all staring at you. remove bottom crank pully and cover and line all the marks up As long as it all goes back together with all the marks lining up you cant go wrong. Id say I could do the whole job in less than 3 hours easy drive in drive out including seals.

Post by **wompy** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:17 pm

Anyone else have any opinions on east coast 4wd products (www.4wdspares.com) Dudelux if these products are any good should check them out they heaps cheap. I got quoted for a new timing belt, cam shaft seal, crank shaft seal and the brand is NOK. And also timing belt tensioner (GMB), timing belt idler (GMB), water pump (GMB), all new belts and a new radiator fan for about $250.

Anyone else used these brands and found them good? All japanese

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