Help me out guys, I am not sure I've got my thinking right.
I swapped all four brake lines on a vehicle and screwed everything together, background is that the master cylinder has been sitting on a bench for maybe a year but the rest of the brake system had fluid in it. The brakes worked before but the booster was removed and rebuilt as they felt off and there was a hiss when you pressed the pedal.
Trying to bleed the brakes, first on a rear and then on a front, I couldn't get a drop of fluid at the wheel end. No movement in the reservoir level, nothing. This is with a vacuum type brake bleeder. Pressing the pedal I got bubbles and big burps in the reservoir but nothing else and no drop in fluid level.
Given that it's all steel brake lines except the new hoses the only thing I can think of is that the master cylinder has crapped itself from sitting on a bench dry..?
The other thing I tried was disconnecting the brake lines at the master cylinder and blanking off the holes with bolts. This made the pedal super hard, which then makes me think the master cylinder is okay.
I am just trying to think wtf could make brakes so unbleedable. It's not the vacuum kit because I bled a clutch with it yesterday no probs.
I wondered if it could be a leak somewhere else but the fact that front and rear act the same even though they are separate brake circuits makes me think that's wrong.
I will probably end up pulling the master cyl and getting it rebuilt but I feel like I might be missing something obvious.
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Brake query
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Brake query
This is not legal advice.
brakes
did you bleedmaster cylinder first ? eg at the unions on the side of the cylinder , make sure you crack them and bleed all the air out of the cylinder before you try bleeding the brakes ..
can take a while to bleed after this if the long lines have been emptied .
micka1
can take a while to bleed after this if the long lines have been emptied .
micka1
Re: brakes
Hmmm, sounds like something to try, thanks.micka1 wrote:did you bleedmaster cylinder first ? eg at the unions on the side of the cylinder , make sure you crack them and bleed all the air out of the cylinder before you try bleeding the brakes ..
can take a while to bleed after this if the long lines have been emptied .
micka1
This is not legal advice.
Don't we all know that feeling!!!chimpboy wrote:I hate it when I have something good to try and it's ten o'clock at night
If I were still single I'd be out there giving it a try right now, sadly it is no longer acceptable.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
Re: brakes
Thanks, I think this was the only issue really. I did as you suggested and cracked open each joint to get fluid up to that joint, then got things happening at the brakes themselves. Took ages but it worked.micka1 wrote:can take a while to bleed after this if the long lines have been emptied .
Then my vacuum bleeder thing broke, it's only two months old so I was a bit cut, but the vendor has said he'll send a replacement straight away. So for now I'll just leave the job half done , at least I am not stressing about it any more though.
This is not legal advice.
dude get your self a length of clear hose the right diameter to fit on your nipples. crack bleed nipple and attach hose. put other end in bottle or up high. keep an eye on the level and sit back. when no air comes out tighten nipple and move onto the next wheel. hope this helps. ray
that f***n hippy in that f*"*""n g60
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
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