sick 2h - more problems need help desperatly

[Wambat]

hey guys,

the 2h in my 89 75 ute, keeps blowing oil cans off, i know its over pressure, and i have been told the solution is the oil Relife valve, which i have purchased the replacement part, but as yet havent installed, as i am not sure were, it has been explained but not shown, and i think i have missunderstood, i will be puchasing a new workshop manual as i seam to have lost mine,

but last night was the most recent time it has done it, and i noticed some metal in the oil, so now i am really worryed that the motor may actualy be damaged( when its happend, i have turned the motor off straight away)

if i have to go down the rebuild route, what is the go, like if i am paying some one to do it how much will it cost, and if i do it myself how long will it take, i dont really have the space to undertake a rebuild, and also, i was thinking, as i have owned a 12ht 60 in the past, of replacing the 2h with one of them, knowing that from anywhere between 4200 to 6500 is the price of one, and thats just second hand, where i could still be buying a motor that is not well.

does the 12ht share that same relife valve problem with the 2h?? it never happend to my 12ht, but thats not saying that is not a possiblilty.

if any one can offer some advice that would be fantastic

cheers

alistair

[tobie]

oil releif valve on driver side down the bottom thonkin a 17mm nut ??
just pull out the spribng and replace

instead of rebuilding the 2h get a 1hz and swap over relative easy and straight forward swap should get out of it for under $4000

[Wambat]

the 1 hz, is that the stnadard diesel from the 80s??

still would be keen on the 12ht, direct injection and turbo, would shit al over my indirect injection na 2h, but i dnt know much about the 1hz, so maybe i should look into it.

[Shadow]

oil releif valve on driver side down the bottom thonkin a 17mm nut ??
just pull out the spribng and replace

instead of rebuilding the 2h get a 1hz and swap over relative easy and straight forward swap should get out of it for under $4000

i thaught it was a 21mm nut but its been a long time since i had mine out.

Its on the bottom drivers side of the Timer-Gear case on the front of the engine.

[Wambat]

ok, that info helps a bit, but i am still fairly unfemiliar with the layout of the 2h, so i dont know where the timer belt case is,

i will have a look tomorrow after work and see if i can figure it out,

any one got any handy hints for getting the filler plugs out of the tranfer case???

mine is oddly tight, considering i was the last to do it up, and i made sure i didnt over tighten it(well obviously not) but i did it no tighter than my diffs, and i can still undo them,

but the transfer one is slightly rounded now, and i cant get onto it well enough with a socket, and i know i need oil in the transfer, its really bugging me, as i dont want to damage the bolt to the point where i have to drill it or weld to it to get it off. but i may have no choice.

i am expecting a gearbox tranfer and motor rebuilt within the next month!!!! not happy really not in a possition for this

[Shadow]

mak sure your using a single hex socket

[SCANAS]

Hi Wambat,

Jumping the gun a bit I think. Why don't you fit the switch do an oil and filter change and see if there is any more metal in the oil... highly likely but worth it in my opinion. Your already planning on engine swaps so this would take little time and money.

I wouldn't bother rebuilding your 2H lots of dollars and still won't pull a sailor off your sister... Cheapest way out get a second hand 2H. Prob pick one up for $1500-$3000

If you are prepared to spend some $$$ a 12HT would be great but getting on a bit now so might need a refresh (read $$$$$) before you put it in.
$2500-$4500 - there is a complete running 12ht for sale on this forum for $2500 atm

A 1HZ is bit harder to put in radiator etc but you can get a good engine for $2000-$4000 lower klms than any 12HT you would see much better power than 2H no turbo to worry about rebuilding etc.

Just my 2 cents... let us know what you deciede!!!!

[Wambat]

cheers shadow, i think that was the problem, i got it out, but had to do soemthing i would have reathered avoiding, (welding another nut to it) i had no full hex sockets, and it was well beyond coming out with the sockets i did have. but i got it out, and turned out that there was more than enough oil in the transfer, and the gearbox too, so now that worrys me a little bit on the gear side of my delemas,


SCANAS - i fitted the relief valve today, which was where i thought it was, as i hadnt seen a picture of the location, and people had explained. this filter that is in the car is the fourth filter it has had on it since i have owned it(july) the first one that was on it when i got it lasted about 2000ks, so i figured that the previous owner hadnt changed it and it was blocked, the second one was my fault as i tightened it but not enough and it vibrated loose( the theory of hand tight plus a little for good meassure for these spin on filters may be all well and good on the hydraulic systems i work with, but maybe not for the motor with its vibration as the fourth one i fitted i tightened up hand tight, the used a towel, then just a little nip with the oil filter wrench, and it came off after about 5 mins of ideling so theni actually gave it a good tightening and it is still on there

(third filter was the second one to actually blow its seam and i kept the second as nothing is wrong with it as a spare)

so now the fourth filter is on, all of this would have been within annother 2000ks, i would say more like 1500.

it was the third filter(second to blow the seam) that i noticed the light colour of the steel dust in the oil.

i guess now i wait and see how it goes with the current filter, as i still have two spares, and another 20 litres of oil. (thank god i work at a hydraulics place and get my oil and filters through them)


in relation to the motors, the 1hz, would that bolt straight up to the bits i already have, ie the gearbox and engine mounts?? radiator i can figure out later( i would like to put it under the tray)

and are they direct injection? and do they accept a turbo well or would a 12ht be better if i want the turbo option in the future???

[Wambat]

oh and thanks guys for the help and thoughts.

Alistair

[bigbrowndog]

cheers shadow, i think that was the problem, i got it out, but had to do soemthing i would have reathered avoiding, (welding another nut to it) i had no full hex sockets, and it was well beyond coming out with the sockets i did have. but i got it out, and turned out that there was more than enough oil in the transfer, and the gearbox too, so now that worrys me a little bit on the gear side of my delemas,


SCANAS - i fitted the relief valve today, which was where i thought it was, as i hadnt seen a picture of the location, and people had explained. this filter that is in the car is the fourth filter it has had on it since i have owned it(july) the first one that was on it when i got it lasted about 2000ks, so i figured that the previous owner hadnt changed it and it was blocked, the second one was my fault as i tightened it but not enough and it vibrated loose( the theory of hand tight plus a little for good meassure for these spin on filters may be all well and good on the hydraulic systems i work with, but maybe not for the motor with its vibration as the fourth one i fitted i tightened up hand tight, the used a towel, then just a little nip with the oil filter wrench, and it came off after about 5 mins of ideling so theni actually gave it a good tightening and it is still on there

(third filter was the second one to actually blow its seam and i kept the second as nothing is wrong with it as a spare)

so now the fourth filter is on, all of this would have been within annother 2000ks, i would say more like 1500.

it was the third filter(second to blow the seam) that i noticed the light colour of the steel dust in the oil.

i guess now i wait and see how it goes with the current filter, as i still have two spares, and another 20 litres of oil. (thank god i work at a hydraulics place and get my oil and filters through them)


in relation to the motors, the 1hz, would that bolt straight up to the bits i already have, ie the gearbox and engine mounts?? radiator i can figure out later( i would like to put it under the tray)

and are they direct injection? and do they accept a turbo well or would a 12ht be better if i want the turbo option in the future???

Cheer , The bell housings are a mirror reverse, see pic. 1Hz gearbox shaft is longer and different spline, so bell housing is longer also. Heap of other small changes a well

[SCANAS]

wambat check out the bible couple been done...

Hadn't had any personal experience with 12HT but if your looking for a turbo motor a 1HZ will prob cost you say $3000- 4000 for engine and then turbo kit $2500 then bits and pieces for conversion $1000 starting to get up there.

12HT would bolt in i'd say? engine cost you around the same $3000-4000 but you would save on turbo kit and conversion pieces bell housing shafts, radiator tanks etc....You could spend that money on a refesh of the 12HT if it needed it.

Looking like a 12HT would be the go....

[Wambat]

scanas - that is pretty much what i was thinking, as its a drop in swap, and only takes two wires to get it running, so i have been told, as i no londer need my edic that is with the 2h, the alternator and starter get hooked up via the same connections i think, and the two wires for the butter fly to turn the motor off, (an accesory and a ground) and i think thats it.

ah well, if the motor hods up for the time being, i wont bee needing to think about it for a while, so plenty of time to learn about it.

[bj on roids]

holy crap, I wonder how similar it is to the 3B then? 3B has the longer fine spline shaft and the starter over where the 1HZ does I think...

[Wambat]

so the replacement relife valve has been on for two weeks, and so far so good, i guess more time will tell if it has solved the exploding oil filter drama!!!

[Wambat]

hey guys,

well tonight, i returned to the car to find that it has yet again blown a filter off, now i am panicking, the only thing i know to do without striping the intire motor, is to run some oil addative that should try and clean out my motor if it has any sludge blocking the oil lines, but even in saying that, shouldnt the new relief valve solve that??? if there was a blockage some where in the line, shouldnt the replacement relife valve stop the preasure from getting any where near high enough to blow it off???

and to top it of, the thing thats going to make this harder is, as of wednesday i am jobless, so apart from cheep things, (and onyl a few of them) i am up the preverbial creek without a paddle, in a barbwire cannoe!!!!(if any one knows of a maintenance fitter job i am all ears)

any ways guys, if you know some thing i can check, or do to stop this, please i need the help...

Alistair

[Kruzeruzer]

Hey Al sorry to hear about the truck and job problems, cant offer any clues either, but was wondering did you notice any significant change when you fitted the new relief valve?? Mine has been fitted 2 weeks now and the pressure is definately lower accordind to the dash gauge.
Boris

[Wambat]

no i hadnt noticed any difference, but and i know its a bit dumb, but it is my fault for not checking properly, i asked the fellas where i bought the relief valve from, and i had actually put it in the wrong spot. there is a relief valve on the filter housing, and the one near the timing case like every one mentioned, i missed it as the power steering is there and i didnt really know where i was looking. so when i looked at the filter housing and saw what looked like a relief valve housing on the filter housing, i pulled it out and sure enough there was so i replaced it, but i was wrong.

so today i pulled the part i put in there out, put the old part back in, and then pulled the correct relief valve out, which was milled into its housing, i had to do a dodgy to get it out though as me my best mate or his misuses couldn't get our fingers into the hole to get it out, so a quick start of the motor to get the poppet out, and a little bit of oil too, and then in with the new poppet, so i will let you know how it goes once i drive it again, and if the pressure is lower.