Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
dad wrote:Just thought i'd stir a few pots..
becoming a CIG locker
Its a zook front, and yes, its in the car now. Works great
i was thinking of locking my front up, but wonder how the standard cv's will hold up. atm i go every where i want to go alot of thrashing and wheels every where lol
when we welded my rear we literally FILLED it with nuts n bolts... layer by layer adding more and welding them in... and even doing that i broke it once =P haha
run a bead of weld on the gears holding them together, then onto the casing holding the gears to that, then finally weld a plate of teal holding it all together again. have done it too a hilux on 39s (no brekages axcept the ring gear and pinnion 2ce) a patrol front on 39s and twin cases. and mq diff on 37s.
alien wrote:when we welded my rear we literally FILLED it with nuts n bolts... layer by layer adding more and welding them in... and even doing that i broke it once =P haha
that how we did mine, still hasnt broken yet touch wood.
11_evl wrote:i recon it will last 3 trips if your lucky..
nice attempt but
That was only the start of it, it was quite thoroughly welded up, as alien described. Main thing is keeping the slag out and keeping it clean, otherwise your diff oil will pick it up and ruin everything.
I was running my rear, welded in this fashion, and it took about 2 years of abuse before i stripped the splines in the side gears.
How would you suggest welding it?
Last edited by dad on Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
money_killer wrote:i was thinking of locking my front up, but wonder how the standard cv's will hold up.
i was breaking them like they were going out of fashion (short side CV) with an open front.
with the cig locked front, i only lock in the long side axle hub (which doesn't break as often coz it has that bit more flex than the short side).
It steers easy, is predictable, and if you get stuck/feel like showing off/etc you just lock in the other front hub.
cv's seem to last longer without the constant battering they get with an open center...
money_killer wrote:i was thinking of locking my front up, but wonder how the standard cv's will hold up.
i was breaking them like they were going out of fashion (short side CV) with an open front.
with the cig locked front, i only lock in the long side axle hub (which doesn't break as often coz it has that bit more flex than the short side).
It steers easy, is predictable, and if you get stuck/feel like showing off/etc you just lock in the other front hub.
cv's seem to last longer without the constant battering they get with an open center...
interesting u must me thrashing it. but i suppose thats how u have to drive a zook im yet to break one.
money_killer wrote:
i was thinking of locking my front up, but wonder how the standard cv's will hold up. atm i go every where i want to go alot of thrashing and wheels every where lol
Don't do it!!!!!
It makes a Zook a REAL pig to steer and is generally a PITA getting out to unlock a hub all the time...
If you must weld a diff don't bother with nuts and bolts.... Weld the side gears butterfly style like in the link..... http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/
Is a bit harder than throwing nuts and bolts but slag eating out the bearings isn't a worry and centre can be re-used to fit an ARB locker at a later date if wanted.
want33s wrote:
If you must weld a diff don't bother with nuts and bolts.... Weld the side gears butterfly style like in the link....
Is a bit harder than throwing nuts and bolts but slag eating out the bearings isn't a worry and centre can be re-used to fit an ARB locker at a later date if wanted.
My rear is currently locked as per the link, it seems to be going ok so far, but i have seen this method fail/slip (spider gears skipped over welded sections) in a vitara.
If i remove the 3 pins from the side of the carrier the welded clump of gears will come out, enabling me to fit a lock right or open center.
If i wanted to fit an air leaker, the whole part i pictured goes in the bin anyways...
money_killer wrote:
i was thinking of locking my front up, but wonder how the standard cv's will hold up. atm i go every where i want to go alot of thrashing and wheels every where lol
Don't do it!!!!!
It makes a Zook a REAL pig to steer and is generally a PITA getting out to unlock a hub all the time...
If you must weld a diff don't bother with nuts and bolts.... Weld the side gears butterfly style like in the link..... http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/
Is a bit harder than throwing nuts and bolts but slag eating out the bearings isn't a worry and centre can be re-used to fit an ARB locker at a later date if wanted.
Tried it like that ... ended up crushing through the welds .. wound up welding everything to everything .. didn't break anymore.
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Here's a pic how a mate welded the diff in our VH Commo dirt circuit car. It's a borg warner diff. He split open the centre, pulled out the spider gears and pin, and just welded the 2 side gears to the carrier (weld all the way around). Had to grind down a lip on the opposite side of the carrier so it would bolt 2gether, but works well! My mate said he's done heaps and none have broken yet.