4.5TD V8 (1VD-FTV) into 100 series conversion (UPDATED!)

Post by **Shadow** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:57 pm

fatassgq wrote:I can't remember if the v8 70 is five or six stud???

they changed about 2000 im pretty sure.

Post by **ferrit** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:09 pm

5 studs- All cruisers since the 79 series are 5 studders.

Post by **fatassgq** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:26 pm

so that means the 105 rotors might fit?

The front caliper trick might be worth a try. Any more info would be awesome as the customer is at wits end trying to get his big heavy bitch of a thing to stop.

It has engine upgrades so even more important.

Post by **bj on roids** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:56 am

fatassgq wrote:I can't remember if the v8 70 is five or six stud???

All cruisers since 1998 are 5 stud...

Except prados and rav4 but i don't count them as cruisers....

yeah, i dont care what the sticker on the back says

Post by **GO79** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:33 am

bj on roids wrote:
fatassgq wrote:I can't remember if the v8 70 is five or six stud???
All cruisers since 1998 are 5 stud...

Except prados and rav4 but i don't count them as cruisers.... yeah, i dont care what the sticker on the back says

OCT 99 they changed from 75 series troopy and ute to 78 troopy and 79 ute and OCT 99 they all got the 5 stud

Post by **AustImages** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:34 pm

I've got the motor in now, running, engineered and inspected. There's still some things to do, but I've been driving it regularly and it's going very well.

I would have waited until it was completely finished before putting up the info pages, but I've had so many questions that I thought I'd get it up now and add to the pages it as I polish it off.

For anyone interested in doing something similar, here's the story so far:

http://www.australianimages.com.au/conversion/

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:43 am

Austimages, you are a legend, and I dare say one of the first to do this conversion...

Post by **chunks** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:09 am

Very informative write up, nice work!

Post by **SCANAS** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:55 am

Great work mate...

Wasn't sure to ask on here or on your FAQ page thought other outers members would prob want to know as well.

1. Which shafts did you use? Did they have to be shortened or lengthened or where they good to go?

2. Does your 100 have SRS airbags? Did you get the bodylift approved as well? Maybe shoot me a pm...

3. Could you shed any light on any forseeable difficulties to put the IVD into a 100 series petrol auto Solid axle?

Thanks,
Dan

Post by **AustImages** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:07 pm

SCANAS wrote:Great work mate...

Wasn't sure to ask on here or on your FAQ page thought other outers members would prob want to know as well.

1. Which shafts did you use? Did they have to be shortened or lengthened or where they good to go?

2. Does your 100 have SRS airbags? Did you get the bodylift approved as well? Maybe shoot me a pm...

3. Could you shed any light on any forseeable difficulties to put the IVD into a 100 series petrol auto Solid axle?

Thanks,
Dan

1. I used the 100's driveshafts, but had the rear shortened and the front lengthened. Cost me a few hundred including new unis.

2. Yes, I have airbags. I specifically asked the engineer about this, and he had no problem with the bodylift. The SRS crush cans are in the body (not on the chassis) and his opinion was that the lift would have no effect on their operation.

3. For conversion from a petrol-auto version, you'd have the extra issue of the fuel system to convert and you'd probably have more issues with the centre console/gearlever positioning. Also not sure if the braking system is different from diesel to petrol (My ABS boosting is done by a pressure cylinder rather than a vacuum system). There may also be differences with the gauges.

You should probably speak to someone who's done a petrol to turbodiesel 6 conversion for details on what they needed to do.

Post by **AustImages** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:56 pm

bj on roids wrote:Austimages, you are a legend, and I dare say one of the first to do this conversion...

Thanks mate. I've enjoyed doing it, and very happy with the result.

I'm pretty sure I'm the first to do this conversion. I haven't heard from anyone else, and none of the wreckers I've spoken to have sold a motor for a conversion yet, although they were all hoping to!

I've updated the conversion page with some more info after I got the AC working yesterday too.

Post by **Ash.brown** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:20 pm

make sure you've got a good fuel filter setup. cos they dont like having any amount of water in the fuel..
we just gave a customer an $11000 bill for a new supply pump and 8 injectors. mainly because the fuel was shit and they drove it until it stopped...

Post by **AustImages** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:52 pm

Ash.brown wrote:make sure you've got a good fuel filter setup. cos they dont like having any amount of water in the fuel..
we just gave a customer an $11000 bill for a new supply pump and 8 injectors. mainly because the fuel was shit and they drove it until it stopped...

I'm always careful with my fuel, and I've got the CAV filter conversion with the glass bowl. I'm always checking it for water or sediment.

How did the guy keep driving it with water in there? I thought the factory filter had a water warning light?

Post by **bj on roids** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:23 am

AustImages wrote:
Ash.brown wrote:make sure you've got a good fuel filter setup. cos they dont like having any amount of water in the fuel..
we just gave a customer an $11000 bill for a new supply pump and 8 injectors. mainly because the fuel was shit and they drove it until it stopped...
I'm always careful with my fuel, and I've got the CAV filter conversion with the glass bowl. I'm always checking it for water or sediment.

How did the guy keep driving it with water in there? I thought the factory filter had a water warning light?

I thought it was attached to the ECU and dropped into limp mode too.. I was driving one and it had dodgy site fuel and it just went into limp mode until it got a new filter.

Post by **krooza85** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:54 pm

Hey aust images, have you got your speedo input to your ECU yet? I think this may be very critical. I own a 70 series V8 and had a wiring issue from the dsash to the ecu for speedo input. The result was aserious lake of power, instead of the motor knowing what your doin and what your requesting, it just thinks your sitting still reving the engine so it only running minimal boost and such. Hope can elp with any questions you have if i can

Post by **AustImages** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:32 am

krooza85 wrote:Hey aust images, have you got your speedo input to your ECU yet? I think this may be very critical. I own a 70 series V8 and had a wiring issue from the dsash to the ecu for speedo input. The result was aserious lake of power, instead of the motor knowing what your doin and what your requesting, it just thinks your sitting still reving the engine so it only running minimal boost and such. Hope can elp with any questions you have if i can

No, haven't sorted that out. But it's certainly not down on power. I've got a scangauge II hooked up and it's getting about 11psi max boost, and going up to about a max of 38 litres/hr of fuel, which is consistent with 70series drivers I've spoken to who have a scangauge, so it doesn't seem to be affecting it. Perhaps the wiring issue you had wasn't just a lack of reading, but some sort of short that was putting the ECU into limp mode?

One thing I did find had a massive effect on power was if the pressure sensor or tube (looks like a vacuum tube) on the intercooler was not reading correctly or not attached. It tells the ECU what boost the engine is receiving and fuels it accordingly, so if it's not reading any boost it turns the fuel right down.

Post by **bj on roids** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:45 am

AustImages wrote:
krooza85 wrote:Hey aust images, have you got your speedo input to your ECU yet? I think this may be very critical. I own a 70 series V8 and had a wiring issue from the dsash to the ecu for speedo input. The result was aserious lake of power, instead of the motor knowing what your doin and what your requesting, it just thinks your sitting still reving the engine so it only running minimal boost and such. Hope can elp with any questions you have if i can
No, haven't sorted that out. But it's certainly not down on power. I've got a scangauge II hooked up and it's getting about 11psi max boost, and going up to about a max of 38 litres/hr of fuel, which is consistent with 70series drivers I've spoken to who have a scangauge, so it doesn't seem to be affecting it. Perhaps the wiring issue you had wasn't just a lack of reading, but some sort of short that was putting the ECU into limp mode?

One thing I did find had a massive effect on power was if the pressure sensor or tube (looks like a vacuum tube) on the intercooler was not reading correctly or not attached. It tells the ECU what boost the engine is receiving and fuels it accordingly, so if it's not reading any boost it turns the fuel right down.

unlike the 3.0L patrols which kept pouring fuel in an caused some stress to some of the motors.

Post by **krooza85** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:55 pm

Your right in the fact yes my wiring issue was a short. I also have ascan gauge on my truck but dont have litres per hour i run liters per100 and liters pertank as an x gauge. I have only got MAP pressure too. Good work with what youve done. How bout a twin turbo kit how hard would that be do you think?

Post by **AustImages** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:06 pm

krooza85 wrote:Your right in the fact yes my wiring issue was a short. I also have ascan gauge on my truck but dont have litres per hour i run liters per100 and liters pertank as an x gauge. I have only got MAP pressure too. Good work with what youve done. How bout a twin turbo kit how hard would that be do you think?

I'd like to use l/100 or L/tank, but can't do it until I get the speed input working, so I have to settle for L/Hr.

I have an X-gauge code for boost if you want it, I'll have to dig it up. The only issue is it isn't 100% accurate due to elevation changes. It may be easier to just keep using MAP and subtract the base MAP from the reading to work out boost.

Could you let me know the codes for the L/Tank gauge so I can input it when I get the speedo working? Also do you know any other codes that work with this motor? I'm actually chasing inlet air temp after intercooling (the std gauge only shows temp pre-turbo.)

I can't see a twin turbo kit fitting into the 100, there's just no room between the manifold and the steering shaft as it is!

Post by **krooza85** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:49 pm

Yeh mate i have a bunch of codes that i just got off there website. Air intake temp i havent even seen that one lol. I had a kwh one as well but i dont think the calc was right.

Post by **bj on roids** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:59 pm

This thread has 4600 views!

Mate if you ever want to go TT check some of the soarer ones that have been done, no room and putting turbos underneath, in front, up top all over the place!

Post by **hj 45** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:46 am

Well it's the motor everyone wants.

Don't think it'd fit in my 45 though.

Post by **bj on roids** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:09 am

hj 45 wrote:Well it's the motor everyone wants. Don't think it'd fit in my 45 though.

Why not? A 45 has a bigger engine bay than a 79 or 100series.

Post by **bj on roids** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:16 am

If it gets tight you can even cut the inner guard out, and the steering is miles away!

Post by **hj 45** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:13 pm

It is eh?

I must resist the temptation though - $$$$$

Post by **AustImages** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:18 pm

bj on roids wrote:If it gets tight you can even cut the inner guard out, and the steering is miles away!

I suspect the biggest problem would be fitting the motor between the chassis rails. There is literally 10mm between the sump and my left hand chassis rail, and I'm pretty sure the 45's rails would be closer than the 100's.

Not saying it wouldn't fit, just that a decent amount of chassis surgery would almost certainly be required.

Post by **AustImages** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:19 pm

krooza85 wrote:Yeh mate i have a bunch of codes that i just got off there website. Air intake temp i havent even seen that one lol. I had a kwh one as well but i dont think the calc was right.

Yep, I've seen the ones on their website but most seem to deal with US vehicles rather than Toyotas. I'll keep looking.

Post by **AustImages** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:24 pm

Just another little update.

I've got the immobiliser sorted out now. My local locksmith was able to produce a 'hybrid' key using Silka modular aftermarket transponder keys. This allowed him to use the internally-cut 100-series key module combined with a late-model Toyota transponder chip module. Join the two together, and you get a key that turns the 100's barrel and deactivates the 70's immobiliser. $160 a key.
http://www.australianimages.com.au/conv ... mmobiliser

Post by **AustImages** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 5:38 pm

I've updated the conversion pages with info on the airbox, cooling and some preliminary conclusions.

http://www.australianimages.com.au/conversion

Now that I've been driving the 'Cruiser for a few months (Including a 5,000km trip towing a campertrailer to Tasmania), I couldn't be happier with the result.

The performance is great. Much better than the 1Hz Turbo it replaced. But, you can never have too much power so I'll be considering a chip in the future.

But the real standout is the economy. 9-10L/100km if I take it easy. 11-12 is the average around town or out on the highway. And for the (winding, hilly) Tassie trip, heavily laden and towing a 1000kg camper, it averaged a remarkable 14.5L/100km. Kev's naturally-aspirated 100 (heavily laden but sans-trailer) averaged about 18L/100 on the same trip.

While the performance is probably similar to a 1HD conversion, the economy is streets ahead, and I think there's a lot more potential in this motor into the future.

Post by **evanstaniland** » Sat May 29, 2010 7:37 pm

would it be hard to fit the twin turbo set up off a 200 series onto that engine? i have been looking at doing this to my 100 as its a cheaper option than buying a chev.
i was goin to look at getting a 200 as a doner vehicle. but want a manual.

does anyone know if a manual box from behind the 70 series will bolt to the 200 engine?

any info will be appreciated

Evan

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4.5TD V8 (1VD-FTV) into 100 series conversion (UPDATED!)

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