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Hey Nissan People,
Just wondering if anyone could tell me what the actual wheelbase on a gq shorty would be?
Can they be lengthened at all with adjustable links etc.
Maybe I should pm wendle or A1 mav??????
Cheers
Brian
If anyone wonders why a toyota is in here lurking around it is just 'curiosity'!!!! Maybe!!!
Actual wheelbase is 2400 (94.5).. You can add another 1-2 with adjustable arms at the back and spacers at the front.. extending the wheel base to 100 is also not that difficult..
Pm the guro .......aka wendle he's the 1 with all the knowledge ...................um i just copy to the best of my abilitys im sure his w/b is out to 99" now and looks sweet check out members section
fatass75 wrote:Longer is more stable especially going up and down steep hills. Draw back to longer is rampover angle becomes worse.
As does turning circle. However with the same body and a longer wheelbase, entry and/or exit angles improve, and all in all this is probably more useful than rampover.
I don't mind the front of my shorty Maverick (GQ) but I'd love to have the back wheels further back. There's too much overhang as all the guys who've chopped their rear 1/4s will tell you.
Anyway, who said shorter is better in the first place? By and large a LWB vehicle is better offroad than a SWB. It's just that SWBs look better
Just to let you know how many " can be moved the rear axle, without touching the gas deposit (as I want the center of gravity as low as I can, and I want the engine weight to be balansed - with the gas deposit weight, at least...).
I moved the rear axle 14 cm and its at the limit of the limit!!! I mean, when the axle move, the upper traction arms mounts goes about 3 mm of the gas deposit...
Once I was decided to have a triangulated 4-link in the rear, I take the opportunity to move the axle also.
Ref the 4-link:
(for the interested persons)
- I kept the axle lower traction arms supports.
- I cut the upper mounting supports and welded it on top of the dif case
- I cut the chassis upper mounting suopports and rotate it, in the way that the triangle has 45 degrees between the 2 sides.
- I used johhny joints all the ends, except the upper mounts to the axle, where I used SKF ball-joints.
- the lower traction arms are made of 42mm/3.6 wall, inside another barr of 26mm/3mm wall.
- a new drive shaft will be needed (I suggest to use a MQ double cross drive shaft, cutted at the proper dimension.)
The front axle is moved forward about 2 cm.
Now, the distance between the axles is 252 cm
Here you have some pics.
Best regards, Gabriel
PS: on monday I will paint the car, then I will start to mount "things" on it. Hopefully the car will be running in 2 weeks...;-)))
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
We stretch around one a week, between 4 and seven inches with no probs. All are A frame rear with long lower arms and help a SWB alot. Mine is stretched 14 inches in the rear and I love it. We have a couple of big names in for A frame stretches in the next few weeks and pics will be up on our new web site in a couple of days.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
Will there be enough separation on the upper links to stop sideway's forces on the axle it (from the pics duznt look like 45deg of separation and with the arms being so short is it gunna have alot of rear steer???)
Im only a novice so im only askin as im gettin ready to do the same mod to my shorty 4 link!
When I had a 4 link rear in mine, it wasnt at 45 either. The uppers were at around 30ish to almost the centre of the diff and the lowers were at around 10ish degrees to the outer of the diff. This set up was strong enough to hold the diff at centre with the weight of the Mav on the side when they rolled it back onto its wheels at tuff truck, I was watching fairly closly as I thought it may have moved with that much stress on it.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
- I made the triangulated 4 link according with the tech article of Peterson's Off-road Magazine (there is an article VERY interesting where EVERYTHING in explained!!)
- I have EXACTELLY 45 degrees between the upper arms.
- since I moved the rear axle backwards, the upper arms became longer too...In the books its said that the upper arms must be 60-70% long then the lower arms. Now, in my setup, the upper arms are 64% of the lower arms.
- I keept the 7-10 degrees at the lower arms.
So, I expect to have a proper ly made 4 link....but only when I'll run the car I'll know for sure...you know: theory is different then practice!!!;-))
I agree with you, if the rear axle is keept in place, then the only way to have longer upper arms will be to build another crossframe...which, btw, is not brain surgery!!!
Regards, Gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
- I made the triangulated 4 link according with the tech article of Peterson's Off-road Magazine (there is an article VERY interesting where EVERYTHING in explained!!)
- I have EXACTELLY 45 degrees between the upper arms.
- since I moved the rear axle backwards, the upper arms became longer too...In the books its said that the upper arms must be 60-70% long then the lower arms. Now, in my setup, the upper arms are 64% of the lower arms.
- I keept the 7-10 degrees at the lower arms.
So, I expect to have a proper ly made 4 link....but only when I'll run the car I'll know for sure...you know: theory is different then practice!!!;-))
I agree with you, if the rear axle is keept in place, then the only way to have longer upper arms will be to build another crossframe...which, btw, is not brain surgery!!!
Regards, Gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
don't worry about the 45deg thing. if the lowers are triangulated in the opposite direction, which they need to be to get the roll axis flat when working with the nissan chassis, you can run much less triangulation in the upper links. centre of axle to inside face of the chassis rails with links abooiut 900-1000mm long works out around 35deg and will be fine. if you run your lowers to the inside face of the chassis rail you pick up another 10 deg or so each side as well as lowering the front constraint point...
Maybe!!!
