Please help very confused by the lack of landrover suspension knowledge on the gold coast.
cheers, Serg
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
defender suspenion
Moderator: Micka
defender suspenion
G-day all, i know theres been plenty on this already and i'm sure there will be plenty more. I have a 110 tray back defender dd and am looking to raise the suspension for the reasons of more travel, clearance and to run larger tyres. any suggestions would be great. I've basicly been reading the pommy/us stuff and don't know whats avaliable hear in oz. Things im looking at are adjustable panhard rod. what to do with the front raidis arms. Rear trailing arms (stronger and cranked?) rear ball joint drop, spring rates, you know, everything. My main corcern is to have it as safe if not better than stock on road and better off road i'm looking at 2-3 inch of lift?
Please help very confused by the lack of landrover suspension knowledge on the gold coast.
cheers, Serg
Please help very confused by the lack of landrover suspension knowledge on the gold coast.
cheers, Serg
You can't have it both ways, unfortunately..
You won't be able to lift it and be as safe or safer on road. Lifting it raises the COG higher over the roll axis, so its going to roll more. To control the on-road body roll you'll need stiffer shocks and/or anti-sway bays, but cornering limits will still be lower.
Lifting mucks up the roll axis, it levels out. The centre of the panhard rod goes up, but not the A frame ball joint. So its going to lose some of the built in understeer & stability.
Rear spring rates i'd guess will be a nightmare with a trayback. Get it right for on-road and they'll be too stiff for decent flex off-road.
What's the priority on-road or odd-road? How much compromise is acceptable?
Regards
Max P
You won't be able to lift it and be as safe or safer on road. Lifting it raises the COG higher over the roll axis, so its going to roll more. To control the on-road body roll you'll need stiffer shocks and/or anti-sway bays, but cornering limits will still be lower.
Lifting mucks up the roll axis, it levels out. The centre of the panhard rod goes up, but not the A frame ball joint. So its going to lose some of the built in understeer & stability.
Rear spring rates i'd guess will be a nightmare with a trayback. Get it right for on-road and they'll be too stiff for decent flex off-road.
What's the priority on-road or odd-road? How much compromise is acceptable?
Regards
Max P
A suspension lift won't make it better offroad OR on road. You want to keep your CoG as low as possible for both off road and on road work. As long as you can fit the tyres you want and are not dragging the chassis on the stuff you are driving then it is high enough. Defenders are pretty easy to put big wheels on without much of a lift. If you want better travel offroad, you would be much better fitting softer springs, that keep the ride height the same or no more than 1-2" over stock (no need for cranked radius arms) and then remove the rear sway bar (or make it disconnectable) and fit some of Sam's (strangerover) slotted bushes, and then fit longer travel shocks (may have to raise shock towers to do this). Downwards suspension travel (droop) is just as important as upwards. Many people forget this when they lift a 4x4.
What size tyres do you want to run? I have 285/75/16's (33") MTR's on my 110 at the moment and they fit fine. It does have reasonably new king springs and bilstein shocks but apart from that is stock. I'm sure I could fit 35's without a problem too.
So the idea is to keep CoG as low as possible while fitting the tyres you want. It will be much more stable that way. No-matter what suspension modifications you do to improve off road performance will most likely have a detrimental effect on on road handling. You make your compromise between on road and off road depending on what you want to do with the truck.
What size tyres do you want to run? I have 285/75/16's (33") MTR's on my 110 at the moment and they fit fine. It does have reasonably new king springs and bilstein shocks but apart from that is stock. I'm sure I could fit 35's without a problem too.
So the idea is to keep CoG as low as possible while fitting the tyres you want. It will be much more stable that way. No-matter what suspension modifications you do to improve off road performance will most likely have a detrimental effect on on road handling. You make your compromise between on road and off road depending on what you want to do with the truck.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Basicly on road i tow an 8x5 dual axle tralier(braked) for work. i don't drive fast and i will have to adjust my driving to suit any mods i do. i agree that keeping the cog resonable is a goal, and drop or droop travel is important thats why i'm looking at only 2 inches of lift. at the moment i have 235/85r16s about 32 inches tall. i would like to be able to run 900-16s off road, about 36inches tall. It doesn't have any sway bars and the truck sits unlevel at the moment, lower at the front. it still runs stock springs and shocks and i don't know how much they have sagged.(150000km's and 6 years old). i was a bit misleading about safer on road than now. what i meant was as safe as posible. most suspenion shops(just your local car and truck) sell +2 springs and standard replacment shocks. so 1. what about the front geometry being draged across by the panhard rod. 2. pinion angle. 3. axles arching to the centre of the vehicle because the leading/trailing arms travel in a arch. 4. rear ball joint. 5. drag rod length as the goose neck is still stock height. 6. shock length, these are all questions that most respond too "landrovers are hard to lift you should have bought a toyota or nissan". these are also questions which i don't really understand. i've seen the scorpion racing stuff and the evo kit looks alright. i'm currently looking into getting a custom panhard rod made localy. i'm happy to loose a bit of its on road maners, its a truck not a car or go cart for that matter. and i use to drive a s111 and 81 rangie before that so slow, poor braking and loads of body roll are not forign to me.
so keep the feed back coming i'll take in all thoughts
cheers, serg
so keep the feed back coming i'll take in all thoughts
cheers, serg
whiteline make adjustanle panhard rods for lr's. do you need one for a 2" lift?? have you had a 4 wheel alighment and the shop says there is a problem.
for a simple 2" lift in the front i have std rate longer king springs with sams (strangerover) holey bushes and 80 series toyota shocks.
this works VERY WELL offroad. those bushes and the lift give the 110 more body roll but it is predictable. towers should be lifted an inch, the brakelines and driveshaft will need to be checked for bind and stretch.
i believe a good set up for the rear would be taller springs retained top and bottom, gq rear shocks with a pin to eye convertor at the bottom to take the bind out of the bushes. maybe you could install 130 helper springs (the smaller spring inside the main spring) for load carrying. maybe even cut off 1-2" from this spring to aid compression.
i don't believe you need to change the rear geometry for a 2' lift.
the rear arms would be a weak link, but only fix them if they bend.
les richmond automotive/rangie spares have very good info on springs.
they also have a "30% extra articulation kit" that seems to be very comprehensive, that matches very nicely with the bilsteins andrew sells.
just don't use camber correction bushes, they suck!!!! (theyrob artic.)
rear mounts might need to be lifted to cycle the shock fully.
i do like the new tough dog ralph adjustable shocks. very large and look to take the weight better than other stuff. plus being adj. you could turn up or down when empty or towing.
but remember ben is right keep the cog as low as possible for stability.
110 can fit 36' tyres with no lift, just a little trim.
you will suffer with the tray, it gets in the way of tyre "stuffage"
if you lift the tray you lift the cog -bad move.
i have just made wheel tubs for my tray. i don't carry pallets or anything that requires a large flat area for transport. its a good solution for me.
i will just cut out the area and weld the tub on.
these are only my opinions, and i hope it helps.
david
for a simple 2" lift in the front i have std rate longer king springs with sams (strangerover) holey bushes and 80 series toyota shocks.
this works VERY WELL offroad. those bushes and the lift give the 110 more body roll but it is predictable. towers should be lifted an inch, the brakelines and driveshaft will need to be checked for bind and stretch.
i believe a good set up for the rear would be taller springs retained top and bottom, gq rear shocks with a pin to eye convertor at the bottom to take the bind out of the bushes. maybe you could install 130 helper springs (the smaller spring inside the main spring) for load carrying. maybe even cut off 1-2" from this spring to aid compression.
i don't believe you need to change the rear geometry for a 2' lift.
the rear arms would be a weak link, but only fix them if they bend.
les richmond automotive/rangie spares have very good info on springs.
they also have a "30% extra articulation kit" that seems to be very comprehensive, that matches very nicely with the bilsteins andrew sells.
just don't use camber correction bushes, they suck!!!! (theyrob artic.)
rear mounts might need to be lifted to cycle the shock fully.
i do like the new tough dog ralph adjustable shocks. very large and look to take the weight better than other stuff. plus being adj. you could turn up or down when empty or towing.
but remember ben is right keep the cog as low as possible for stability.
110 can fit 36' tyres with no lift, just a little trim.
you will suffer with the tray, it gets in the way of tyre "stuffage"
if you lift the tray you lift the cog -bad move.
i have just made wheel tubs for my tray. i don't carry pallets or anything that requires a large flat area for transport. its a good solution for me.
i will just cut out the area and weld the tub on.
these are only my opinions, and i hope it helps.
david
Spring Info and hights.
Based on my RR.
Holden V8, Rear step bar, swing out S/wheel, Steel BB.
Aprox 1100 lbs per corner rear:
Aprox 880lbs per corner front.
----------Spring lt:---Lbs/inch----C:T/Load:--Installed Lth:--Bstop:
Rear-------17.8:-------320:--------1100:-------14.36:---------6.36:
Rear-------16.8:-------320:--------1100:-------13.36:---------5.36:
Rear-------17.8:-------270:--------1100:-------13.73:---------5.73:
Rear-------16.8:-------270:--------1100:-------12.73:---------4.73:
Rear-------18:---------220:--------1100:-------13.00:---------5.00:
Rear-------17:---------220:--------1100:-------12.00:---------4.00:
Rear-------17.2:-------180:--------1100:-------11.09:---------3.09:
Rear-------16.5:-------180:--------1100:-------10.39:---------2.39:
Front-------17:---------220:--------880:--------13.00:---------5.00:
Front-------16:---------220:--------880:--------12.00:---------4.00:
Front-------15.5:-------220:--------880:--------11.50:---------3.50:
Front-------17.2:-------180:--------880:--------12.31:---------4.31:
Front-------16.5:-------180:--------880:--------11.61:---------3.61:
Front-------15.9:-------180:--------880:--------11.01:---------3.01:
Note: Std RR has 3 degrees of castor angle, with B/stop clearannce of 2 inches.
Every HALF inch lifted, you will loose ONE degree Castor.
Regards
Michael.
Based on my RR.
Holden V8, Rear step bar, swing out S/wheel, Steel BB.
Aprox 1100 lbs per corner rear:
Aprox 880lbs per corner front.
----------Spring lt:---Lbs/inch----C:T/Load:--Installed Lth:--Bstop:
Rear-------17.8:-------320:--------1100:-------14.36:---------6.36:
Rear-------16.8:-------320:--------1100:-------13.36:---------5.36:
Rear-------17.8:-------270:--------1100:-------13.73:---------5.73:
Rear-------16.8:-------270:--------1100:-------12.73:---------4.73:
Rear-------18:---------220:--------1100:-------13.00:---------5.00:
Rear-------17:---------220:--------1100:-------12.00:---------4.00:
Rear-------17.2:-------180:--------1100:-------11.09:---------3.09:
Rear-------16.5:-------180:--------1100:-------10.39:---------2.39:
Front-------17:---------220:--------880:--------13.00:---------5.00:
Front-------16:---------220:--------880:--------12.00:---------4.00:
Front-------15.5:-------220:--------880:--------11.50:---------3.50:
Front-------17.2:-------180:--------880:--------12.31:---------4.31:
Front-------16.5:-------180:--------880:--------11.61:---------3.61:
Front-------15.9:-------180:--------880:--------11.01:---------3.01:
Note: Std RR has 3 degrees of castor angle, with B/stop clearannce of 2 inches.
Every HALF inch lifted, you will loose ONE degree Castor.
Regards
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
modman wrote:the rear arms would be a weak link, but only fix them if they bend.
NO - definitely laminate the trailing arms NOW. I have seen firsthand whet happens when they bend offroad. A mate's disco banana'd one of the trailing arms and twisted his rear propshaft in half in the process because the diff noes spun upwards so that it pointed to the roof. Not to mention having to do the recovery...
But I agree with the rest, the radius arms and panhard should be fine for a 2" lift. I know someone that runs 280/85/16 MT117's (same as 900x16) on an almost stock 130, it just has slightly longer springs.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
cut one end off then sleeve the wholearm.
or you canweld angle underneath for support.
ben is right about doing the arms now, its just my tight arse self that only fixes things when they're farked.
there is a thread here about making new arms, it even lists the material size???
i'm surprised the search nazis haven't pounced yet.
david
hsvrangie has some nice pics of custom trailing arms and cranked radius arms, have a search.
or you canweld angle underneath for support.
ben is right about doing the arms now, its just my tight arse self that only fixes things when they're farked.
there is a thread here about making new arms, it even lists the material size???
i'm surprised the search nazis haven't pounced yet.
david
hsvrangie has some nice pics of custom trailing arms and cranked radius arms, have a search.
Following on from HSV Rangie/Michael's spring info, the 17" free length 220lb/in (Rangie Spares 'purple') springs in the front of my 300Tdi Defender give me a current bump stop clearance of 110mm (4.33") with an ARB steel bull bar and a Warn winch.
They have settled aproximately 5-7mm since installation six months ago.
The stock springs gave approx 60-65mm (2.36-2.5") bump stop clearance, IIRC.
Rick.
They have settled aproximately 5-7mm since installation six months ago.
The stock springs gave approx 60-65mm (2.36-2.5") bump stop clearance, IIRC.
Rick.
Thanks guys, this is all very helpfull. Does anyone know the standard spring rates front/rear for a 98, 110 trayback. The rears have some green paint on the coils and the fronts have yellow, the fronts may be variable rate??? as the first three coils(top) are compressed. Where are Whiteline located( a contact No. would be good). How do poly airs affect articulation(rears only)?. As far as rasing/lowering shock mounts/towers this i don't undrstand, beacause in the scorpion racing evo kit the rear shock mounts and front towers are 2 inches lower. I think they have increased the lenght of the bump stops. The rear arms are cranked and they supply dislocation cones. but some say to rase the mounts/ towers? I currently have some m j lee standard height towers( not installed). Why do the arms get cranked and are they made longer (not just scorpion's but in general) wouldn't the front and rear have to be longer as its a basic triangle and for the run to stay the same and the rise(springs) to increase you also have to increase the hyp. =trailing/leading arms??? What are your thoughts on the Q T Services front corrected arms. Would it be possible to make adjustable arms so you could change your shocks and springs and just adjust your front /rear arms? As you can see i'm #**$ing confused.
cheers, serg
cheers, serg
Go here for spring colour codes of the OEM springs, and specifications of various aftermarket ones.......http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html
Rick.
Rick.
whiteline are in sydney, use the phonebook or 12456.
polyairs rob a little dit of artic, but i have seen them burst from rocks and pinching. but they maybe good for your towing??
lowering the shock mounts and bumpstops is the cheap way, and robs uptravel. the idea is to have good useable travel and keep the vehicle as low as possible for stability.
the radius arms are cranked twice to correct chassis bush alignment and caster alignment. using 2 sets of washers the radius arms can be moved 10 mm forward.
the trailing arms are cranked once to correct chassis bush alignment. you can use washers or a proper kicker instead.
hsv rangies arms look nice, not to hard to fab either!!
frontarms can be cranked hot or cold.
polyairs rob a little dit of artic, but i have seen them burst from rocks and pinching. but they maybe good for your towing??
lowering the shock mounts and bumpstops is the cheap way, and robs uptravel. the idea is to have good useable travel and keep the vehicle as low as possible for stability.
the radius arms are cranked twice to correct chassis bush alignment and caster alignment. using 2 sets of washers the radius arms can be moved 10 mm forward.
the trailing arms are cranked once to correct chassis bush alignment. you can use washers or a proper kicker instead.
hsv rangies arms look nice, not to hard to fab either!!
frontarms can be cranked hot or cold.
Theres a post on Pirates about a 4" lift with 9.00 16 tyres - An OME Nissan spring in the rear seems to be the secret.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=216211
Regards
Max P
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=216211
Regards
Max P
Maxtd5def wrote:Theres a post on Pirates about a 4" lift with 9.00 16 tyres - An OME Nissan spring in the rear seems to be the secret.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=216211
Regards
Max P
Man it looks sweet! Now a question please...
OME 980 ??? Do you have any specs on the rate etc of this spring.
I have a 110 TR Edition (see my web site) fitted with OME springs. Heres the problem - OME offer a 280Lb or 420Lb spring!
I need more than the 280Lb but 420Lb I think it will never flex at all
Which model Nissan is the 980 off of?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers Mike
Landrovers... Nothing else comes close!
Hey guys,
The 110 softop on the pirates is mine.
The OME 980 are the MD for the newer models of Nissan Patrol, if someone has a loaded hardtop 110, I recommend OME 981 (HD for Nissan Patrol).
In the rear of my truck I have 14" adjustable Fox shocks, I changed the upper mount of the shock. It gives me a lot of trouble drop/droop.
You must laminate the rear radius arms. I've seen too many people with banana radius arms and lots of damage done (usually the driveshaft).
I did it as mentioned here but I gave the radius arm an angle to compensate for the lift.
I didn't touch the A-frame U-joint, but I plan on doing so.
Inside the spring I made cones which allows me to use a longer shock than spring. If you're not interested in cones, you can use the adjustable Toughdog as mentioned here, take their 10" - they fit the Rover shock mount (eye/screw) exactly.
The rear driveshaft is stock, the front driveshaft has a CV joint (with any lift over 2" in full drop the U-joint touches the yoke).
The front radius arms in my truck are stock, I'm still looking from where to purchase offset radius arms or sketches from which to build them (it is currently too expensive to purchase from Europe because of the high Euro rate).
The front springs are Eibach 2.5" progressive + 1.5" spacer. At the moment I have 10" Fox shocks inside the spring. In the near future I'm going to put 14" Fox shocks outside the spring, $G III link.
In the picture you can see the articulation now
The evo kit (scorpion racing/ equipe) - I don't think it's worth anything - it gives you the same articulation you have now - but starts and ends at different points. I simply do not see what it gives me.
To change to 33", you can use any regular kit such as Toughdog, OME. To change to 33/12.5 you will need an offset wheel.
In the next picure you can see a 90 I built with a standard MD OME + 1" spacer. The shock is Bilstein 7100 14" with cones, upper mount shock, etc. The truck has 33" with offset wheels.
Erez
The 110 softop on the pirates is mine.
The OME 980 are the MD for the newer models of Nissan Patrol, if someone has a loaded hardtop 110, I recommend OME 981 (HD for Nissan Patrol).
In the rear of my truck I have 14" adjustable Fox shocks, I changed the upper mount of the shock. It gives me a lot of trouble drop/droop.
You must laminate the rear radius arms. I've seen too many people with banana radius arms and lots of damage done (usually the driveshaft).
I did it as mentioned here but I gave the radius arm an angle to compensate for the lift.
I didn't touch the A-frame U-joint, but I plan on doing so.
Inside the spring I made cones which allows me to use a longer shock than spring. If you're not interested in cones, you can use the adjustable Toughdog as mentioned here, take their 10" - they fit the Rover shock mount (eye/screw) exactly.
The rear driveshaft is stock, the front driveshaft has a CV joint (with any lift over 2" in full drop the U-joint touches the yoke).
The front radius arms in my truck are stock, I'm still looking from where to purchase offset radius arms or sketches from which to build them (it is currently too expensive to purchase from Europe because of the high Euro rate).
The front springs are Eibach 2.5" progressive + 1.5" spacer. At the moment I have 10" Fox shocks inside the spring. In the near future I'm going to put 14" Fox shocks outside the spring, $G III link.
In the picture you can see the articulation now
The evo kit (scorpion racing/ equipe) - I don't think it's worth anything - it gives you the same articulation you have now - but starts and ends at different points. I simply do not see what it gives me.
To change to 33", you can use any regular kit such as Toughdog, OME. To change to 33/12.5 you will need an offset wheel.
In the next picure you can see a 90 I built with a standard MD OME + 1" spacer. The shock is Bilstein 7100 14" with cones, upper mount shock, etc. The truck has 33" with offset wheels.
Erez
No..... it's not a jeep
erez wrote:The OME 980 are the MD for the newer models of Nissan Patrol, if someone has a loaded hardtop 110, I recommend OME 981 (HD for Nissan Patrol).
Erez... A quick question if I may...
Are you saying that the coils from the Nissan are the exact diameter to go straight in? The 110/130 has a unique rear coil diameter compared to all other Landrovers so if this is a direct fit then I may have my answer to the eternal problem!
OME for 110/130 are either 280 or 420Lb... Has anyone fitted the 420Lb springs? Do they still flex offroad well... Even guys at ARB(OME) said they are more of a load carrier and comparable to the 130 with internal helper spring in rate.
So Erez... What rate are those springs your running?
Cheers
Mike
Landrovers... Nothing else comes close!
Hi Mike,
Yes, the OME 980/981 fit the rear spring mount exactly. The OME HD (420lb) are good only for heavy loads. They're very comfortable if you have a loaded hardtop. The Nissan springs (OME 980) are somewhere between the 280lb and the 420lb - I don't remember exactly, if you like I can get the info tomorrow. On my 110 softop (without hardly any load) the feeling is very good on and off road.
Erez
Yes, the OME 980/981 fit the rear spring mount exactly. The OME HD (420lb) are good only for heavy loads. They're very comfortable if you have a loaded hardtop. The Nissan springs (OME 980) are somewhere between the 280lb and the 420lb - I don't remember exactly, if you like I can get the info tomorrow. On my 110 softop (without hardly any load) the feeling is very good on and off road.
Erez
No..... it's not a jeep
Erez,
would be good if you can supply the spring loadpounds per inch compresion.
Free lth.
Fitted lth.
lift achieved.
will place the info in the tech FAQs.
Michael.
would be good if you can supply the spring loadpounds per inch compresion.
Free lth.
Fitted lth.
lift achieved.
will place the info in the tech FAQs.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
The OME 980 are intended for a long Nissan Patrol GU/GR Y61
The wire diameter is 19 mm
The spring's height without any load is 490 right and 470 left
spring rate 43.9 newton per mm up to 64.9 (the spring is progressive)
The spring gives 4" lift to a softop 110, 3.5" to a hardtop 110.
A loaded hardtop 110 should use OME 981 (HD).
HTH,
Erez
The wire diameter is 19 mm
The spring's height without any load is 490 right and 470 left
spring rate 43.9 newton per mm up to 64.9 (the spring is progressive)
The spring gives 4" lift to a softop 110, 3.5" to a hardtop 110.
A loaded hardtop 110 should use OME 981 (HD).
HTH,
Erez
No..... it's not a jeep
Hi, just thought I'd add my experience to this, I have a 110 trayback and use it for work also, it has around a 70 mm spring lift with coils from Graheme Coopers. I dont know the spring rate but if you ring them and tell them the bumpstop clearances they know what spring to give you. I carry a 400kg ride-on mower in the tray and tow around a ton all day and the springs I have in the back have the same number of coils and length as the originals but with 1 mm thicker wire, sketchy details I know but this works a treat. I run 315/75/16's (35x12) and the only problem is lack of turning circle. They JUST fit inside the flairs on the front but I have a mate with 38 swampers on his and all he did was take the flairs off and all was sweet.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the handling of a 2" lift cause even when I'm fully loaded up it drives better then a lot of other cars on the road i just have some nice firm shocks for the rear to control the lean created by a ride-on mower sitting a bit over a metre off the ground . I also have a 2wd hilux and when I put all the gear on it, then I get scared. As long as you use a bit of common sense and don't throw it around like your Larry Perkins you shouldn't have any troubles.
I recon get standard rate springs for the front with Landcruser shocks and heavy duty springs for the back with some long adjustable rancho's or toughdogs. Being a tray back you can always do with the extra load carrying ability and when you want to go for a play just load up the tray a bit - I find about half a dozen full bags of grass does the trick.
Keep it simple, the more you try to do the more you will spend and more you will think you can go anywhere and then you break something and then your work car is out of action. I'm sure you will be happy with just a simple lift.
That's just my 2 cents.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the handling of a 2" lift cause even when I'm fully loaded up it drives better then a lot of other cars on the road i just have some nice firm shocks for the rear to control the lean created by a ride-on mower sitting a bit over a metre off the ground . I also have a 2wd hilux and when I put all the gear on it, then I get scared. As long as you use a bit of common sense and don't throw it around like your Larry Perkins you shouldn't have any troubles.
I recon get standard rate springs for the front with Landcruser shocks and heavy duty springs for the back with some long adjustable rancho's or toughdogs. Being a tray back you can always do with the extra load carrying ability and when you want to go for a play just load up the tray a bit - I find about half a dozen full bags of grass does the trick.
Keep it simple, the more you try to do the more you will spend and more you will think you can go anywhere and then you break something and then your work car is out of action. I'm sure you will be happy with just a simple lift.
That's just my 2 cents.
Hi, just thought I'd add my experience to this, I have a 110 trayback and use it for work also, it has around a 70 mm spring lift with coils from Graheme Coopers. I dont know the spring rate but if you ring them and tell them the bumpstop clearances they know what spring to give you. I carry a 400kg ride-on mower in the tray and tow around a ton all day and the springs I have in the back have the same number of coils and length as the originals but with 1 mm thicker wire, sketchy details I know but this works a treat. I run 315/75/16's (35x12) and the only problem is lack of turning circle. They JUST fit inside the flairs on the front but I have a mate with 38 swampers on his and all he did was take the flairs off and all was sweet.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the handling of a 2" lift cause even when I'm fully loaded up it drives better then a lot of other cars on the road i just have some nice firm shocks for the rear to control the lean created by a ride-on mower sitting a bit over a metre off the ground . I also have a 2wd hilux and when I put all the gear on it, then I get scared. As long as you use a bit of common sense and don't throw it around like your Larry Perkins you shouldn't have any troubles.
I recon get standard rate springs for the front with Landcruser shocks and heavy duty springs for the back with some long adjustable rancho's or toughdogs. Being a tray back you can always do with the extra load carrying ability and when you want to go for a play just load up the tray a bit - I find about half a dozen full bags of grass does the trick.
Keep it simple, the more you try to do the more you will spend and more you will think you can go anywhere and then you break something and then your work car is out of action. I'm sure you will be happy with just a simple lift.
That's just my 2 cents.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the handling of a 2" lift cause even when I'm fully loaded up it drives better then a lot of other cars on the road i just have some nice firm shocks for the rear to control the lean created by a ride-on mower sitting a bit over a metre off the ground . I also have a 2wd hilux and when I put all the gear on it, then I get scared. As long as you use a bit of common sense and don't throw it around like your Larry Perkins you shouldn't have any troubles.
I recon get standard rate springs for the front with Landcruser shocks and heavy duty springs for the back with some long adjustable rancho's or toughdogs. Being a tray back you can always do with the extra load carrying ability and when you want to go for a play just load up the tray a bit - I find about half a dozen full bags of grass does the trick.
Keep it simple, the more you try to do the more you will spend and more you will think you can go anywhere and then you break something and then your work car is out of action. I'm sure you will be happy with just a simple lift.
That's just my 2 cents.
Thought I'd keep this thread goingf for a bit longer yet..
There's a page of useful tyre, wheel, backspacing info at
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/wheels.htm
even some instructions about trimming flares
Regards
Max P
There's a page of useful tyre, wheel, backspacing info at
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/wheels.htm
even some instructions about trimming flares
Regards
Max P
Max,
That data is SO '90s
Discos now have larger tires than D90s because their wheelbase allows them to...
The benchmark is much around 35", with people having 38.5s on mallers, and 36s on trailers...
Still trying to get a "true" 37 on mine after the JM stuff...
That data is SO '90s
Discos now have larger tires than D90s because their wheelbase allows them to...
The benchmark is much around 35", with people having 38.5s on mallers, and 36s on trailers...
Still trying to get a "true" 37 on mine after the JM stuff...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 29 guests