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high pinion

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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high pinion

Post by gupootrol »

has any one done a high pinion rear diff set up and is it as strong ? and is it just a front housin and crown wheel and pinion with a rear centre ?
and a higher filler point ?
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Post by 75 cruser »

the proffessor (chad) has put one in his hilux and ive seen it flogged and hold up fine, im pretty sure that jmac set it up for him

rob
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Post by SuperiorEngineering »

ARB Rockhampton uses a front pinion in their rear diff of their comp GQ SWB , just bolts in from what they told me.
From my point of view it would help with the pinion angle if set up correctly but it could also get you hung up on obstacle because of the high pinion ( low pinion tapers slowly from the bottom ) but the high pinion has the undercut edge that may hinder you.??

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Post by swb_ute »

Yup Russ from ARB Rockhampton has that setup only talking to him about it the other day for my swb he has had no problem with it at all
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Post by turps »

If you try searching on here you may get the details of how to do it. Pretty sure it wasnt a straight bolt in. And it used a Navara hipinion center.
There has been a couple of threads on it.

Sorry that was putting an LSD into the front of a GQ. I am sure there has been threads on it. I will keep looking.
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Re: high pinion

Post by professor »

gupootrol wrote:has any one done a high pinion rear diff set up and is it as strong ? and is it just a front housin and crown wheel and pinion with a rear centre ?
and a higher filler point ?
I have one in my lux rear. HP nissan front they are the same all bar the spline count. if you get a front center with a rear diff lock (has correct spline count) it will bolt in.set differently as the tooth has contact on the wrong side.

Call John fron Jmac 02 9671 5800 he has done a few very good at setting the diff up correctly for 4x4 use

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Post by ELF_83 »

most of us run high pinions up here they can cop a flogging but if you do drive like a total dip stick will bust. but most of us have over 300rwhp and i broke mine in a comp last year but it had been in there for 5 years was a daily driver for 2 of them years with a manual box, driving it like it was a VL commodore, so it took a lot of punishment.
we use the complete front centre just move the filler point up.

That shorty from ARB rocky isn't there comp car its russ's daily driver that he just happens to thrash.
ARB now has its own comp car.
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Post by swb_ute »

Russ took me out the back for a look at the ute the other day and to show off the winch that winch is kick a$$
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Post by DFTYellowLux »

SuperiorEngineering wrote:ARB Rockhampton uses a front pinion in their rear diff of their comp GQ SWB , just bolts in from what they told me.
From my point of view it would help with the pinion angle if set up correctly but it could also get you hung up on obstacle because of the high pinion ( low pinion tapers slowly from the bottom ) but the high pinion has the undercut edge that may hinder you.??

<Normal story nothing is perfect for everything >
why not just put some extra bracing on it to fill in the divet :armsup:
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Post by HIANUFGQ »

I done it in my shorty, just mahe sure the pinion is done up tight and use locktite. Because it is a front diff in the rear and running in reverse the pinion nut can come loose.
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Post by 76patrol »

i've done it, fixed my angle prob really well. there is a how to thread on downunder 4wd with pics. cheers
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Post by waandy »

is it possible to keep the factory rear vacum locker with this?
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Post by 76patrol »

yeah i would imagine you could keep the locker instead of the lsd. well after some thrashin (rb30 but with 4.1s) it seems to hold up. 2nd gear smoking 35" treps on the bitchumen. i like it my home made tail shaft has no vibes euther. good easy mod Do It
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Post by SIM79 »

ANDREWGQ 351 wrote: you put all of the rear internals in the front housing, therefore no reverse teeth issues no t/shaft issues and it all adjusted up to spec fine.
How much does this high pinion conversion cost to do? Rough prices on parts and roughly how many hours labour.
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Post by ELF_83 »

all we are doin is runnin front centres in the rear. that all it is and we (well atleast myself and russ, can't speak for the rest) are runnin moded/custom arb front lockers.
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Post by hiy6o »

No big science to it front centre with the hemisphere of the rear diff in it , using the front gear set , done a few all been thrashed and daily drivers none broke without maximum abuse and big hp .
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Post by tuf045 »

ELF_83 wrote:all we are doin is runnin front centres in the rear. that all it is and we (well atleast myself and russ, can't speak for the rest) are runnin moded/custom arb front lockers.
you can just use a std rear arb locker. the only diffrence is the spline count on the hemisphere side gears the front is 31 spline the rear is 33.
have had a play with these and have found they end up cracking the teeth on the crown wheel and they make noise when coasting.
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Post by bj on roids »

why don't you guys just run the original rear diff, clock the tailshaft uni's into 'broken back' formation, and keep the stronger rear diff??? Or run less lift? :lol:
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Post by SIM79 »

Found this on another forum

[quote=builtg60;153608]so i thought id do a bit of a how to. shortys and really lifted wagons can have bad driveline vibes. one way to fix this compleatly is to swap a front hi pinion center in, thus raising the diff pinion about 5 inches. it is not a straight bolt in but is close. to do this you have to run the front crown and pinion, which is reverse cut to the rear. but after talking to friends in rocky who have raced winch challenges with 300+ hp engines running hi pinion rears for years with very few breakages.



what you need:



gq/gu rear diff

gq front center

gasket or goo

14,17,19mm sockets and wrench

bench vise or rattle gun

a clean surface to work on

dial gauge indicator

new fill plug and welder





1.drain oil from diff

2.pull axles from rear diff and remove center.

3.remove lsd and crown wheel bolts from rear center .(you are now done with the rest of rear center).

4.remove crownwheel and spider gears from front.

5.remove and discard front spider gears.

6.bolt rear lsd into front crownwheel.

7.refit crown and lsd to hi pinion housing and set BACKLASH

8.measure and mark new fill point higher up on diff housing and then drill hole.

9.weld in new fill plug.

10.refit the center replacing gasket and bolt axles back in

11.refill with lsd oil and check all bolts.

12.rebolt tail shaft and drive away vibe free





hope this helps i searched for ages and could only find refrences to doing it.

front center
Image
empty front center
Image
rear lsd and front crown wheel
Image
new crown wheel bolted to lsd
Image
finished hi pinion rear
Image


you could use a rear locker but this is what i had lying around.

MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR DIFF RATIOS BEFORE YOU DRIVE IN 4WD.



good luck and enjoy ray[/quote]
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Post by SIM79 »

Is new oil filler point the same hight as it was on the front diff or higher?Does anyone have any measurements for the new higher filler point or pics of the new higher filler point?
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Post by A.J. »

This doesn't sound bad at all.

So I could use my rear locker in the front high pinion centre a front ring and pinion gear in the rear?

Sounds pretty good as that would also bring my tailshaft up above lower arms level and save it fron getting beaten up on rocks and ledges.....
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Post by 76patrol »

hey thats my how to lol. thanks for makin it better sim. i moved my filler up about 4". left the old one in as well.
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Post by SIM79 »

76patrol wrote: thanks for makin it better sim. i moved my filler up about 4". left the old one in as well.
I didn't make it better, just cut and paste from one forum to another.

Thanks from the higher filler measurement. How did you work out the correct height oil for the rear high pinion as mine is going in a daily driver? 76patrol is your high pinion in a daily driver?
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Post by 76patrol »

yep drive it every day. groceries, work, play, tourer, towing tandem trailer. as for the measurement i just lined it up with the center of the pinion. (no leaks yet). although looking at it you could prob just raise it 75mm. i kinda wish i'd cut the pumpkin off and welded front to rear. Image i know a few others that run this setup daily with more than 250 rwhp. in the next few days i'm going to bolt in my new italian 4.625 so we can all find out how strong they are too. Image oh i forgot to mention if you run this setup you should occasoinally check your pinion nut and locktite the shit out of it. hope this helps. ray
that f***n hippy in that f*"*""n g60

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Post by SIM79 »

Thanks for the info 76patrol
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Post by 76patrol »

mabey this should go in the bible? seen it asked a bunch of times.
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Post by SIM79 »

ELF_83 wrote: are runnin moded/custom arb front lockers.
What mods did you do to the air locker?
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Post by SIM79 »

Image

Got mine done and now I have zero driveline noise( bad grinding gone). :D
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Post by (EST)MahviaDeTyrk »

A.J. wrote:So I could use my rear locker in the front high pinion centre a front ring and pinion gear in the rear?.
Seen these question now few times here - but haven't seen a good answer jet :roll:
Hi-pinion with open diff or LSD or ARB or ... is answered - but with factory locker ????
If there is possible to use hi-pinion with factory locker in rear - so why not to use factory locker in front ?? (with little bit welding and custom 33 spline axle shafts)
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Post by SIM79 »

Has anyone had any strenght issues running gear ratio's 4.3 or 4.6 in a high pinion rear?
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