gq swb suspention lift kit questions.

Post by **wyldxf** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:37 pm

Gday fellaz, im thinking about upgrading my lift , got a swb gq, on 35s, 2" body lift and 2" suspention lift, im thinking about putting the iron man 4" lift kit in which comes with springs/shocks oviously, front and rear adjustable panhards, extended brake lines, and castor plates, now my gq ive already put the gear box spacers in to eliminate tailshaft viabrations, all this was done a long time ago, but im curious to know if anyone has put a 4" suspention lift in their Swb, and if there is anything else i need to do or know, e.g has anyone had any problems with putting a 4" lift in?? tailshaft angle problems etc???. advice and help and any info would be much apreciated fellaz,

Cheers Gary.

Post by **waandy** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:49 pm

wyldxf wrote:Gday fellaz, im thinking about upgrading my lift , got a swb gq, on 35s, 2" body lift and 2" suspention lift, im thinking about putting the iron man 4" lift kit in which comes with springs/shocks oviously, front and rear adjustable panhards, extended brake lines, and castor plates, now my gq ive already put the gear box spacers in to eliminate tailshaft viabrations, all this was done a long time ago, but im curious to know if anyone has put a 4" suspention lift in their Swb, and if there is anything else i need to do or know, e.g has anyone had any problems with putting a 4" lift in?? tailshaft angle problems etc???. advice and help and any info would be much apreciated fellaz,

Cheers Gary.

i have this lift in my swb, great lift but it is alot of stuffing around to get it right, a 4 inch kit will give you more like a 5 inch lift, i still have tailshaft issues after longer lowers, adjustable uppers, it is not strait forward

Post by **wyldxf** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:54 pm

would i be better off putting 3" coils in instead of a 4" lift kit?

Post by **waandy** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:01 pm

just out of curiosity why do you want to change your set up?

Post by **wyldxf** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:06 pm

just wana kick it up a little higher, plus im going to be carrying some more load in the back , thus im doing a touring setup in the back, draws, compressors, water tanks, tools, etc. and also, have the ocasional play in the bush, so id like to just go a bit higher bit over the 2" suspention kit i got in it atm

Post by **bj on roids** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:09 pm

Spend your money on lockers. Trim the guards if the tyres are touching.

Post by **wyldxf** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:13 pm

car is twin locked already.

Post by **twodiffs** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:30 pm

wyldxf wrote:car is twin locked already.

Skitey pants.....

Post by **Tiny** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:47 pm

big lifts on swb are crap

stick with what you have, trim garuds if needed

Post by **MICK77** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:54 am

A 4" lift is fine in a SWB.

Don't forget to get a modified bracket for the brake proportioning valve.

Cheers,

Micko

Post by **twodiffs** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:24 pm

MICK77 wrote:A 4" lift is fine in a SWB.

Don't forget to get a modified bracket for the brake proportioning valve.

Cheers,

Micko

Now i've wondered about that for yonks...is it really that important to do??
My braking is ok for a GQ with 35's etc...could be better like most trucks though.
There was another thread running which mentioned the same thing and I have read that the bracket as you mentioned, must be raised in proportion with the lift. But like coxsy said..not many do.

I'm not doubting that you said it should be done, I'm just wondering how important or crucial it is that IT IS done?

Post by **KIWI** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:40 pm

You can get away without the valve extension, but for the sake of 10mins making/fitting one, it's worth it.

Post by **MICK77** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:48 pm

KIWI wrote:You can get away without the valve extension, but for the sake of 10mins making/fitting one, it's worth it.

Exactly. For 10 minutes work, it is so worth it.

Post by **waandy** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:27 pm

sorry to sound stupid but how do these brackets actually work? iv been running a 4 inch lift with 35s for near 6 months, brakes are pretty poor so anything that could improve them would be a plus

Post by **MICK77** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:23 pm

There is a bracket mounted to the top of the rear diff. It has a spring hooked to the top of it. The other end of this spring is connected to the brake proportioning valve.

When you raise the vehicle with a spring lift, the distance between the valve and the bracket is increased by that same amount.
This places increased tension on the spring which in turn alters the positioning of the valve, therefore changing the brake pressure to the rear brakes.

A modified bracket will raise the height of the spring back to standard thus giving you normal braking characteristics.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

Micko

Post by **waandy** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:47 pm

MICK77 wrote:There is a bracket mounted to the top of the rear diff. It has a spring hooked to the top of it. The other end of this spring is connected to the brake proportioning valve.

When you raise the vehicle with a spring lift, the distance between the valve and the bracket is increased by that same amount.
This places increased tension on the spring which in turn alters the positioning of the valve, therefore changing the brake pressure to the rear brakes.

A modified bracket will raise the height of the spring back to standard thus giving you normal braking characteristics.

I hope this helps.

so i basicaly have to make a bracket to lift it up 4 inches?

Cheers,

Micko

Post by **twodiffs** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:34 am

Cool, thanks for that...i'll do it this weekend.

Post by **chimpboy** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:33 am

MICK77 wrote:There is a bracket mounted to the top of the rear diff. It has a spring hooked to the top of it. The other end of this spring is connected to the brake proportioning valve.

When you raise the vehicle with a spring lift, the distance between the valve and the bracket is increased by that same amount.
This places increased tension on the spring which in turn alters the positioning of the valve, therefore changing the brake pressure to the rear brakes.

A modified bracket will raise the height of the spring back to standard thus giving you normal braking characteristics.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

Micko

I don't have a GQ any more so I can't look, but is there any reason why you couldn't just add a piece of bent wire to the end of the spring and "lengthen" it that way?

Post by **KIWI** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:10 pm

I think you need to get the spring sitting horizontal, and there is a specific length it should be, if not done properly, I would think the valve not work correctly

Post by **KillaMav** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:42 pm

I fitted a longer bracket about 1 year after lifting my car and its completely different now. There is a huge difference and its stopped the front end wandering under braking as the rear brakes more.

Post by **chunks** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:39 am

chimpboy wrote:I don't have a GQ any more so I can't look, but is there any reason why you couldn't just add a piece of bent wire to the end of the spring and "lengthen" it that way?

The bracket is just a flat bit of steel with 4 holes drilled in it, couldn't be much simpler.

Post by **twodiffs** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:28 pm

I finally got around to it, it sounds plain enough but it's the brakes we're talking about....so does this look right to those who have done it??

Post by **twodiffs** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:21 pm

Anyone please?? - The spring was a bit munted as it was stretched downwards for so long so i'm getting a new one this weekend.
Still don't see how it makes a difference though because the end of the spring attached to the bpv just hooks on the end...the angle of the spring alters but the bpv arm can only move in one direction regardless of the spring setting....correct?

Post by **marin** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 5:35 pm

twodiffs wrote:Anyone please?? - The spring was a bit munted as it was stretched downwards for so long so i'm getting a new one this weekend.
Still don't see how it makes a difference though because the end of the spring attached to the bpv just hooks on the end...the angle of the spring alters but the bpv arm can only move in one direction regardless of the spring setting....correct?

Does make a difference. Distance between diff and chassis changes the pressure on the valve.

Post by **KillaMav** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:16 pm

Yep that looks right to me from memory but I cant look at mine as I aint at home atm and wont be till 20th.

Post by **Reddo** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:56 am

Are you going to drop the body lift out when you place the 4inch lift into the car?

Post by **MICK77** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:36 am

twodiffs wrote:I finally got around to it, it sounds plain enough but it's the brakes we're talking about....so does this look right to those who have done it??

Yeah mate. That is spot on.

Cheers,

Micko

Post by **KIWI** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:05 am

There is info on here somewhere stating the correct length the spring should be if you want to get fussy

Post by **twodiffs** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:23 pm

Cool thanks guys...just wanted to make sure I had it right.
I'll straighten it up when I put the new spring on.
I'm not going to be that fussy Kiwi, the other spring is from an original so it should be the right length technically

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