Reccomend me a good rear steer solenoid.

[Wendle]

I'm currently running an electric over hydraulic setup using an A/B solenoid from an old 4WS Nissan Skyline with a lock solenoid on one line. Works fine 90% of the time but the Nissan solenoid seems to have a relief valve or something built into it. Occasionally it will bump to full lock, which is kind of scary if it happens when you are attacking something with a bit of pace.

I'd like to replace it with something that definitely 100% locks off both sides (is closed center the right term?) when it isn't energised.
An online source to buy from would be good, too. Canberra isn't the best place to find this sort of thing.

Thanks...

[1MadEngineer]

what type of spool do you need? closed or motor? (3 port or 4 port ....)
do you want to do it properly or just cheap? ideally a dual counterbalance (and a H spool or motor spool ) should be used to protect everything. More info please

[Wendle]

what type of spool do you need? closed or motor? (3 port or 4 port ....)
do you want to do it properly or just cheap? ideally a dual counterbalance (and a H spool or motor spool ) should be used to protect everything. More info please

I don't know what any of those terms mean apart from cheaply/properly

Hopefully you can tell me what I need, if I tell you what I have.
I am using a 12v power pack with pump submerged in the reservoir. The return line from the solenoid valve runs back to this reservoir. Using a DPDT switch to steer with, one circuit of the switch opens the valve left/right and the other circuit fires the pump. Using a single ended cylinder so the valve needs to be able to flow back to tank as the cylinder retracts as well as drawing from tank as it extends.
All works well apart from the above mentioned self steer problem.
The valve I have probably doesn't flow enough either, but I'm not real concerned with speed, I'm not interested in dodging cones or racing a clock.

Cheers man...

[ricky1970]

A dual counterbalance valve to stop cylinder drift, CETOP3 solenoid valve and subplate with either motor spool (A,B,P,T all open in mid position) or P blocked, A,B & T open considering its running of a DC p/pack and shouldn't be running when the valve isn't energised.

[1MadEngineer]

what type of spool do you need? closed or motor? (3 port or 4 port ....)
do you want to do it properly or just cheap? ideally a dual counterbalance (and a H spool or motor spool ) should be used to protect everything. More info please

I don't know what any of those terms mean apart from cheaply/properly

Hopefully you can tell me what I need, if I tell you what I have.
I am using a 12v power pack with pump submerged in the reservoir. The return line from the solenoid valve runs back to this reservoir. Using a DPDT switch to steer with, one circuit of the switch opens the valve left/right and the other circuit fires the pump. Using a single ended cylinder so the valve needs to be able to flow back to tank as the cylinder retracts as well as drawing from tank as it extends.
All works well apart from the above mentioned self steer problem.
The valve I have probably doesn't flow enough either, but I'm not real concerned with speed, I'm not interested in dodging cones or racing a clock.

Cheers man...

that answers most of my Q's.
Cross HYD (sydney/melbourne/bris)
cetop3 - LC1A2 24DC (~$334)
cetop3 subplate - PDM120 (~$100) subplate with 3/8"bspp ports
+GST -discount?(upto 40% off)

Then at least if you want to put a dual CB valve (or cross port relief) into it later its easy.

just an example - hope that helps.
Greg