Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Alternative to Starting a HJ61 not using the ignition Key

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

Post Reply
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:39 pm
Location: Adelaide

Alternative to Starting a HJ61 not using the ignition Key

Post by PeterInSa »

Have built up my HJ61 to the way I like it and do not want it stolen, so had a national company install an immobiliser and Alarm. Had a different (cheaper) system to that installed on our Seca Hatch so had different remotes. Wrong move. Asked the installer to install at cutout switch just in case the system fails out in the bush. No way was the reply in addition I did not receive back the circuit diagram and anyway I was told that it was not wired to the standard circuit anyway. The install was 4 years ago and have not had any trouble with it.

July this year had starter problems in the bush 500KM from the nearest larger town (in another state), managed to get a starter from a Cruiser devotee to save the day. Then thought what if something happened to the immobiliser how would I get the vehicle back to civilisation. Speaking to a techo in the other state for the same company he told me that if the vehicle was known to be going off road it should have been wired in a failsafe mode, my gut feeling is that it has not been wired this way.

If a terminal/wire falls off in the immobiliser circuit how do I get the my Turbo Diesel started.

I know how to get the starter to kick in, as a result of my July experience, but the ignition???? and without taking off the dashboard, if possible

and of course if the alarm/siren goes off I'll just cut the wires.

Note the Seca has a key ontop of the alarm battery to make the Alarm/immobiliser in-operable, I wish the Cruiser had the same thing.

Comments appreciated.

Peter
Posts: 1042
Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 6:33 pm
Location: MACKAY

Post by SIMMO84 »

its simple really, post up a pic of your injecter pump.
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
Posts: 675
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2005 10:06 pm
Location: campbelltown

Post by Nat84 »

put power to the fuel cut off solenoid on the IP and then start it
Posts: 15549
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:23 am
Location: Your Mummas House!

Post by bj on roids »

Nat84 wrote:put power to the fuel cut off solenoid on the IP and then start it
BINGO, one length of wire and 5 minutes work.

I have a similar system on mine, but it has a bypass in case of major system failure.

Another cool thing to have instead of all that rubbish would have been a fuel tap. You could hide it. Car won't get far with no fuel, and at one tenth of the cost..
hands and mums dont count!!!
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:33 pm
Location: blue haven

Post by grubb »

what brand of alarm is it
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:39 pm
Location: Adelaide

Post by PeterInSa »

Thanks for the starting method.

Grub
In this day and age where you can get sue'd the Alarm/immobiliser will remain nameless. sufficient to say, unlike the dear'er unit on the Buzz box that can have 3 remotes all active so one is hidden in the vehicle if a battery dies, the cheaper unit only can have 2 active remotes, so have a 3rd unit that if the battery dies in the bush and I am on my own have to dig the 3rd remote out and re-read the instructions on how to fire up the third remote ie turn the igntion on so many times, scratch your head and turn the ignition on x times again to get the remote active.

To be fair the organisation offered to swap it over for the dearer unit when I found out I could only have 2 active remotes but with all the install problems did not want to go thru it again BUT NOT realising the unit did not have a failsafe mode/cutout similar to the unit in the buzz box.

Thanks

Peter
Peter
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:33 pm

Post by tobie »

peter

i gather ur hj61 has a 12ht ?

if so u need to disconnect the cut off arm that is atached to the edic control, this will enable fuel to go to the pump

the get power to the starter

we have done this before on a 2h so the 12ht should be very similar
Posts: 6021
Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 11:01 pm
Location: Shed.

Post by dumbdunce »

tobie wrote:peter

i gather ur hj61 has a 12ht ?

if so u need to disconnect the cut off arm that is atached to the edic control, this will enable fuel to go to the pump

the get power to the starter

we have done this before on a 2h so the 12ht should be very similar
12H-T does not have EDIC, it has a flap in the inlet to shut off the air. move the flap to the run position manually and jump a wire from the battery + terminal (big) on the starter motor to the solenoid trigger terminal (small) and you're away. direct injection should not need a glow to start above about -20C.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:33 pm

Post by tobie »

there u go

i was assuming the 12ht and 2h were the same set up and forgot about 12ht being direct inj ect ect

was still along the same path, just at a different beat lol
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:39 pm
Location: Adelaide

Post by PeterInSa »

Dumbdunce, in addition to moving the Flap, and the wire to the starter do I need to put power to the fuel cut off solenoid on the IP and then get the starter turning over.

ie Move the Flap, wire to the Fuel cut off solenoid and wire to the Solenoid/starter.????

I think the 12ht do not have glow plugs but have some form of warmer, if I get this problem out in the bush I can waite until the middle of the day if its winter to starter the motor.

Peter
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 11:54 pm
Location: Perth Western Australia

Post by Tim HJ61 »

12h-t doesn't have a fuel cut off solenoid.

Glow screen Heater only switches on below 10°C, so normal starts are possible in most conditions without any heating. and in an emergency situation I fully imagine the engine would start relatively happily and quickly down to 0°C. i.e. it's not something you need to take into account.

Tim
Canola powered 12H-T HJ61 24V, GTurbo, FMIC, locked, Bilsteins, 3" exhaust. 450nm.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 83 guests