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Kill Switch For Comp Truck Build

General Tech Talk

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Posts: 65
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Kill Switch For Comp Truck Build

Post by noodle »

Hi. Hopefully someone can help me with my dilema.

Trying to get my head around installing a kill switch.

Its for a GU coil cab and it is being built for winch challenges and possibly cliffhanger.

Im running 3 batteries, 1 in the engine bay and 2 on the tray + 2 winches 1 front mounted and 1 mid mounted.

I dont like the idea or cost of running large cable behind the dash so I was wondering can you run a few small switches to appropriate sized solenoids to cut the power ?

CCDA rulebook isnt that clear to me.

Cheers
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Post by ludacris »

I dont see why you cant do it that way. A couple of winch soloidnoids. I was going to change my setup to this way. We kill switch the earth straight of the batteries.

Cris
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Post by noodle »

would the ccda rues allow it ? im no expert but it seems a safer less complicated option to me
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Post by Chook350 »

wot about using a normal kill switch but use a cable to shut power, that way the switch can be mounted anywhere
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Post by noodle »

Not a bad idea although there would have to be 3 cables. 2 leading towards the engine bay and 1 behind the cab. May be hard to get them to work properly.
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Post by Modified Toy »

We run a constant duty solenoid and have a red key in the cab and it just kills the power that energises the solenoid to kill all power in the car,The winch circuit is excempt in most cases but most people run a big arse kill switch just incase you get a solenoid lock on.
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Post by noodle »

Hey Modified Toy.

So you run a large red key switch then low gauge wire to a solenoid ?
do you have any pics of this setup ?
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Post by CWBYUP »

Chook350 wrote:wot about using a normal kill switch but use a cable to shut power, that way the switch can be mounted anywhere
Thats how they do it in off road racing.
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Post by noodle »

Found this t-max solenoid which is rated to 500 amps.

Image

Anyone have any experience with these solenoids ?

My thinking is i could isolate each winch from the batteries on 2 solenoids and isolate the fuel pump, alternator, engine electrics etc on another. then just have 2 small switches in cab, 1 to isolate the winches and 1 for the rest.
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Post by MightyMouse »

Anderson plugs ( of appropriate rating ) with pull handles.

Can be direct ( available as a standard part ) or i've seen versions disconected via a cable and tee handle in competition vehicles.

IMO these are EXTREMELY reliable, simple and very effective as they provide full isolation of both + and - when used.

They are also not expensive IMO.
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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Post by Ice »

ive got a box full of the red handle type kill switches if anyones chasing them

save me sticking them up on ebay...
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

just put in a KOMATSU 8088-40000 H/D solonoid, they can handle 800Amp continious and 2000Amp peak. they are approx $300 each.
They are used as the main isolators on earthmoving equipment. 12/24v low current trigger.

OR

use a large anderton socket and plug inline on the main cable, but the plug is wired as a loop - then all you do is pull the plug from the socket! easy and ultra reliable ;)
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Post by Modified Toy »

noodle wrote:Hey Modified Toy.

So you run a large red key switch then low gauge wire to a solenoid ?
do you have any pics of this setup ?
pm me your email and i will take some and forward them on.
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