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Intercooler for my Cruiser
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Intercooler for my Cruiser
Hey fellas,
Im beginning an intercooler project on cruiser.
Its a HZJ75 with a 2007 HDJ105 1HZ engine in it.
Ive already turboed it with a GT2876R, 4" intake, 4" airbox, 4" snorkel 3" exhaust.
This is how it sits at the moment.
Now ive started building the water to air cooler for it, its 2 cores side by side. 4 tanks. Its being built into the intake manifold so the air has a direct route out of the turbo, into the cooler and straight into the manifold.
Im going to cut the top of the intake manifold off and build the cooler into it.
Issues,
Weight... its heavy i was hoping for it to hang off the intake manifold but its too heavy for that... Mounting options?
Engine oil filler cap... its so big that its going to sit over the top of the filler... Remote filler options?
Anyways here are some pix of it, what do rekon am i going to have issues with it?
Im beginning an intercooler project on cruiser.
Its a HZJ75 with a 2007 HDJ105 1HZ engine in it.
Ive already turboed it with a GT2876R, 4" intake, 4" airbox, 4" snorkel 3" exhaust.
This is how it sits at the moment.
Now ive started building the water to air cooler for it, its 2 cores side by side. 4 tanks. Its being built into the intake manifold so the air has a direct route out of the turbo, into the cooler and straight into the manifold.
Im going to cut the top of the intake manifold off and build the cooler into it.
Issues,
Weight... its heavy i was hoping for it to hang off the intake manifold but its too heavy for that... Mounting options?
Engine oil filler cap... its so big that its going to sit over the top of the filler... Remote filler options?
Anyways here are some pix of it, what do rekon am i going to have issues with it?
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is it possible to make a H style frame that bolts to the firewall and the rad support?
For the oil filler can you mod a rocker cover to have the filler forward more? i can see in the picture..... either that or on a 45 degree angle just missing the cooler?
For the oil filler can you mod a rocker cover to have the filler forward more? i can see in the picture..... either that or on a 45 degree angle just missing the cooler?
06 Hilux Locked Lifted and Bulk Panel Damage
Cooler has to be mounted to the engine only.tuffer_2.4 wrote:is it possible to make a H style frame that bolts to the firewall and the rad support?
For the oil filler can you mod a rocker cover to have the filler forward more? i can see in the picture..... either that or on a 45 degree angle just missing the cooler?
Rocker cover is a special plastic and cannot be plasti welded or fiber glassed.
Toughie hey lol
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G'day,
Could you extend the mounts from the glow plug rail attachment bolts? (longer bolts with suitably sized spacers). A length of flat alloy/steel with each end folded up to bolt the intercooler to (which then allows the intercooler to 'rest' on the new rail and be located by the end bolts) This has more of the middle of the intercooler supported by the block, plus the manifold mounting points. Not sure about the weight of the 'overhanging' part of the intercooler that will still be sitting over the rocker cover though.
BTW, what sort of pressure drop are you expecting with that core?
Ross.
Could you extend the mounts from the glow plug rail attachment bolts? (longer bolts with suitably sized spacers). A length of flat alloy/steel with each end folded up to bolt the intercooler to (which then allows the intercooler to 'rest' on the new rail and be located by the end bolts) This has more of the middle of the intercooler supported by the block, plus the manifold mounting points. Not sure about the weight of the 'overhanging' part of the intercooler that will still be sitting over the rocker cover though.
BTW, what sort of pressure drop are you expecting with that core?
Ross.
HZJ105TD Made to be used.
make some brackets to support it from spare bolt holes in the head. My 1hd-t has a couple of spare holes, also remove the engine lifting loops for more spare holes at the front and rear of the head.
Its a waste of time mounting from the body, you would then have to have fexible couplings on the inlet and outlet sides of the core.
did you fab the cooler?
Its a waste of time mounting from the body, you would then have to have fexible couplings on the inlet and outlet sides of the core.
did you fab the cooler?
Unless you chased down a HDFT rocker cover (Fester would prob bash you if you managed to find one however)Z()LTAN wrote:Cooler has to be mounted to the engine only.tuffer_2.4 wrote:is it possible to make a H style frame that bolts to the firewall and the rad support?
For the oil filler can you mod a rocker cover to have the filler forward more? i can see in the picture..... either that or on a 45 degree angle just missing the cooler?
Rocker cover is a special plastic and cannot be plasti welded or fiber glassed.
Toughie hey lol
Laminova's are an excellent example of a w2a intercooler, and now doubt work, however it depends on what your budget is i guess. There are certainly no questions that z()ltans truck is 100% built not bought, hence making his own cooler
150rwkw's?
Cheers,
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Yes I probably would firstly cause he found one cheap and secondly cause he wasted it on a dodgy old 12 valve 1HZ. But seriously an HDFT rocker cover would not fit a 12 valve motor I expect.+dj_hansen+ wrote:Unless you chased down a HDFT rocker cover (Fester would prob bash you if you managed to find one however)Z()LTAN wrote:Cooler has to be mounted to the engine only.tuffer_2.4 wrote:is it possible to make a H style frame that bolts to the firewall and the rad support?
For the oil filler can you mod a rocker cover to have the filler forward more? i can see in the picture..... either that or on a 45 degree angle just missing the cooler?
Rocker cover is a special plastic and cannot be plasti welded or fiber glassed.
Toughie hey lol
Laminova's are an excellent example of a w2a intercooler, and now doubt work, however it depends on what your budget is i guess. There are certainly no questions that z()ltans truck is 100% built not bought, hence making his own cooler
150rwkw's?
So seeing as I;m still trying to find a suitable shape core to fit mine how I want can you enlighten us to what brand the core is and where you got it and if you don't object the price of he bare core. Is it a dedicated water to air core or are you running an air core back to front.Z()LTAN wrote:Yeah ill be posting all my results.
The cooler project has cost me $300 so far
Zoltan, I'm not going to get drawn into the Laminova "hype" your doing your own thing and that's good.
Looking at your pics the cores look like bar and plate cores, if so, I would recommend pressure testing them via the water end tanks. I've seen a few air to air bar and plate coolers with leaks and seeing as diesels don't like water too well it's good insurance for you.
I would pressure test them now before you fabricate further, if there's a problem it's best too know now before you put lots of hours in the final fabrication building it into the inlet manifold.
If you decide to pressure test them make sure they're tested well above your intended boost pressure. The ZD30 recores that we do we test at 40 psi just to make sure there are no leaks.
If you test them I recommend you submerge the units in water so any tiny air leaks can be seen. Sometimes the most minute leaks show up this way and it's better to be certain.
Have you considered using a flanged section where the unit is able to be pulled apart? I went this way with Marin's I/cooler so he had access to the rocker cover and fuel rail/injectors.
How about access to the oil filler? Any thoughts about that?
Good luck with your project.
Regards Andrew.
Looking at your pics the cores look like bar and plate cores, if so, I would recommend pressure testing them via the water end tanks. I've seen a few air to air bar and plate coolers with leaks and seeing as diesels don't like water too well it's good insurance for you.
I would pressure test them now before you fabricate further, if there's a problem it's best too know now before you put lots of hours in the final fabrication building it into the inlet manifold.
If you decide to pressure test them make sure they're tested well above your intended boost pressure. The ZD30 recores that we do we test at 40 psi just to make sure there are no leaks.
If you test them I recommend you submerge the units in water so any tiny air leaks can be seen. Sometimes the most minute leaks show up this way and it's better to be certain.
Have you considered using a flanged section where the unit is able to be pulled apart? I went this way with Marin's I/cooler so he had access to the rocker cover and fuel rail/injectors.
How about access to the oil filler? Any thoughts about that?
Good luck with your project.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
Cheers for the reply awill, i have been waiting for it
I has already been pressure tested, i will probably do it again myself.
Is 40psi from the water side going to be ok?
I looked into making a flanged section, i had it all sorted out but it was going to be way to hard to get it done right, and then id have to get it skimmed after welding it on, which im not sure can be done with this kind of thing.
The oil filler i can either tap into the turbo drain or take the sump off again and weld in another fill barb and make a remote filler for it.
Cheers for not being offended by my laminova prejudice. I was really contemplating going one, wanted to do it myself though and it was going to be too expensive and too hard.
I has already been pressure tested, i will probably do it again myself.
Is 40psi from the water side going to be ok?
I looked into making a flanged section, i had it all sorted out but it was going to be way to hard to get it done right, and then id have to get it skimmed after welding it on, which im not sure can be done with this kind of thing.
The oil filler i can either tap into the turbo drain or take the sump off again and weld in another fill barb and make a remote filler for it.
Cheers for not being offended by my laminova prejudice. I was really contemplating going one, wanted to do it myself though and it was going to be too expensive and too hard.
Locktup4x4.com.au - For all of your hardcore gear
Outlaws4x4.com
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Probably for your own peace of mind it would be better if you could also pressure test it yourself but do it submerged in water and you'll see if there's any problems. Pay attention to any leaks (hopefully none) that seem to come from the back side of the header plate particularly if it's near where you welded the cores together. At this stage it's far easier to rectify a problem than if it's all fully welded together.Z()LTAN wrote:Cheers for the reply awill, i have been waiting for it
I has already been pressure tested, i will probably do it again myself.
Is 40psi from the water side going to be ok?
As for test pressure I would pump it about 10-15 psi higher than your intended maximum boost pressure.
Yeah, I understand where your coming from, it took me quite a while to suss out how to achieve what I wanted on Marin's one so I could access the rocker cover, injectors and fuel lines. It's not the prettiest solution but it was functional.Z()LTAN wrote:I looked into making a flanged section, i had it all sorted out but it was going to be way to hard to get it done right, and then id have to get it skimmed after welding it on, which im not sure can be done with this kind of thing.
A possible solution for you would be weld a new filler cap and neck further to the front of the rocker cover if there's room. Speedflow make some some nice billet ones that would do the job and come in various sizes. All you need is enough room to get a funnel into it.Z()LTAN wrote:The oil filler i can either tap into the turbo drain or take the sump off again and weld in another fill barb and make a remote filler for it.
We actually get our Speedflow fittings from Go Gear over there in Perth as we get a good deal and generally we get overnight delivery.
If you figure there's enough room I would advise welding the new filler neck from the underneath of the rocker cover as I've found the cast covers generally don't weld nicely and if it's welded underneath the weld just has to be functional and seal, not look pretty like it should if it's staring you in the face if you welded the upper side of the rocker cover.
I'm not offended at all, Matt and I have proved they work well . I'm happy your having a go, you'll feel really proud when it's all done and you can say "I did this".Z()LTAN wrote:Cheers for not being offended by my laminova prejudice. I was really contemplating going one, wanted to do it myself though and it was going to be too expensive and too hard.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
the rocker cover is an ABS plastic, ie cant be weldedawill4x4 wrote:A possible solution for you would be weld a new filler cap and neck further to the front of the rocker cover if there's room. Speedflow make some some nice billet ones that would do the job and come in various sizes. All you need is enough room to get a funnel into it.
My thoughts are
a) Overkill - lots of hard work for what could be much simpler
b) I want to see the finished pics
c) Hope the 1HZ holds together
d) You need to put some thought into the air inlet into the cores. I don't beelive the zero pressure drop - no pressure drop means no turbulance means ineffective. You'll get some. THe problem with such a wide core is the free flow will mean most will flow though the middle of the core. You need to "spread" the air - and I mean force it to spread over the inlet face. Does that make sense? My frozenboost job (same / similar core, but smaller) will (I suspect) not flow much air at the ends due to poor tank design, but it's a (big) compromise for other reasons.
One fix is side inlets - air blowing across the faces forces it across the whole core.
Outlet equalisation - there was a thread on diesel intake manifold design and the impacts of screwing it up - unequal EGT's.
Also - how are you planning on bleedin the air out of the core. I'm going to drill and tap a bleed screw into mine.
Good luck
Paul
a) Overkill - lots of hard work for what could be much simpler
b) I want to see the finished pics
c) Hope the 1HZ holds together
d) You need to put some thought into the air inlet into the cores. I don't beelive the zero pressure drop - no pressure drop means no turbulance means ineffective. You'll get some. THe problem with such a wide core is the free flow will mean most will flow though the middle of the core. You need to "spread" the air - and I mean force it to spread over the inlet face. Does that make sense? My frozenboost job (same / similar core, but smaller) will (I suspect) not flow much air at the ends due to poor tank design, but it's a (big) compromise for other reasons.
One fix is side inlets - air blowing across the faces forces it across the whole core.
Outlet equalisation - there was a thread on diesel intake manifold design and the impacts of screwing it up - unequal EGT's.
Also - how are you planning on bleedin the air out of the core. I'm going to drill and tap a bleed screw into mine.
Good luck
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
For the oil filler - it's only a filler.
Why not fit a remote filler with some oil hose and a cap. Slower to fill - big deal. It's only a 10,000km change, not 5000 like many advocate.
Either add a 3/4" brass fitting somewhere on the rocker, reuse the turbo drain, use the dipstick (real slow), use the oil breather. There are baffles under the oil breather and wire mesh.
Also - want a power gain
LOSE the corrugated intake pipe to the turbo.
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/autospe ... take-flows
Paul
Why not fit a remote filler with some oil hose and a cap. Slower to fill - big deal. It's only a 10,000km change, not 5000 like many advocate.
Either add a 3/4" brass fitting somewhere on the rocker, reuse the turbo drain, use the dipstick (real slow), use the oil breather. There are baffles under the oil breather and wire mesh.
Also - want a power gain
LOSE the corrugated intake pipe to the turbo.
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/autospe ... take-flows
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Cheers for the reply's paul,
Im getting all my parts and materials together as we speak.
Im having issues with the cooler inlet design...
Im limited to making it enter at the end of the cooler face not the side as you have said, im going to make it enter at the bottom but am unsure as to if that will make the air only use the top most portion of the cooler.
Possibly some kind of semi perforated baffle inside the cooler funnel to redirect a percentage of the air charge to the bottom of the cooler maby?
Here is a quick paint sketch of the proposed layout
Im getting all my parts and materials together as we speak.
Im having issues with the cooler inlet design...
Im limited to making it enter at the end of the cooler face not the side as you have said, im going to make it enter at the bottom but am unsure as to if that will make the air only use the top most portion of the cooler.
Possibly some kind of semi perforated baffle inside the cooler funnel to redirect a percentage of the air charge to the bottom of the cooler maby?
Here is a quick paint sketch of the proposed layout
Locktup4x4.com.au - For all of your hardcore gear
Outlaws4x4.com
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