After searching 16 pages in the search section i have had enough and have decided to to just ask.
I am looking at running a rear radiator for my sierra. I have a 1.6 injected vit motor.
What i want to know is what size radiator should i run? I was thinking of just going to the wreckers and finding a radiator from a 1.8-2lt motor that will fit where i want to mount it.
Also i was thinking of running 2in plumbing to the back would this be big enough?
And i was gonna run a electric water pump what kind of L/S would i need? Any help would be great.
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Rear Mount Radiator
Rear Mount Radiator
Tow Rig - 4.2 Turbo Deisel GQ. 5in coils, 2in body, f&r tube bars, sliders, 35's.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
Rear mounting is a great idea - it's one of the best things I've even done on my car.
I'm running a trayback though. I don't think it's very practical in a styleside.
I'm running a radiator from a 87-91 Camry, with two primary cooling fans to cool my 660. I agree that an AU falcon radiator and fans would be ideal, and that's what I'm going to use in my next build.
mrRocky - for a sierra, the advantages are the ability to run a bigger radiator and fans than is possible in the front, better weight distribution, but mostly, no chance of clogging the radiator with mud. If you run a front mounted winch, it allows the winch to me mounted much further back, further improving weight distribution.
Steve.
I'm running a trayback though. I don't think it's very practical in a styleside.
I'm running a radiator from a 87-91 Camry, with two primary cooling fans to cool my 660. I agree that an AU falcon radiator and fans would be ideal, and that's what I'm going to use in my next build.
mrRocky - for a sierra, the advantages are the ability to run a bigger radiator and fans than is possible in the front, better weight distribution, but mostly, no chance of clogging the radiator with mud. If you run a front mounted winch, it allows the winch to me mounted much further back, further improving weight distribution.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I'm also interested in this. Any chance of some pics and specs of your setup Steve. Especially what you've done in the way of water pumpsGwagensteve wrote:Rear mounting is a great idea - it's one of the best things I've even done on my car.
I'm running a trayback though. I don't think it's very practical in a styleside.
I'm running a radiator from a 87-91 Camry, with two primary cooling fans to cool my 660. I agree that an AU falcon radiator and fans would be ideal, and that's what I'm going to use in my next build.
mrRocky - for a sierra, the advantages are the ability to run a bigger radiator and fans than is possible in the front, better weight distribution, but mostly, no chance of clogging the radiator with mud. If you run a front mounted winch, it allows the winch to me mounted much further back, further improving weight distribution.
Steve.
This is also why I'm interested. I only have the standard Sierra alternator at the moment but would like to upgrade to a falcon one later but space is an issue due to the Vitara p/s box and Vitara radiatorDominator wrote:...but i am going to mount a falcon alternator and with the p/s box and current radiator plumbing there is not much room.
Last edited by ZUKPOWER on Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
yeah i have a tube tray so mounting wont be a problem space is at a premium though with a toolbox, highlift and a full size (33in) spare mouted on the tray. I was thinking of running a primary and secondary thermo setup. What water pump setup to you have?
Tow Rig - 4.2 Turbo Deisel GQ. 5in coils, 2in body, f&r tube bars, sliders, 35's.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
Yeah mate gettin there. It doesnt run to hot with the belt fan and the thermo in the front but i am going to mount a falcon alternator and with the p/s box and current radiator plumbing there is not much room.
I have not done to much yet, have been flat out buying/fixing a car trailer.
first proper wheel i had in it i flipped the shackle on the wrap bar and put a hole in the fuel tank, have since modified the bar with a tractor link to allow more movement. i am just about to put it on the picks sticky in the zook section so you can see what i have done there.
I have not done to much yet, have been flat out buying/fixing a car trailer.
first proper wheel i had in it i flipped the shackle on the wrap bar and put a hole in the fuel tank, have since modified the bar with a tractor link to allow more movement. i am just about to put it on the picks sticky in the zook section so you can see what i have done there.
Tow Rig - 4.2 Turbo Deisel GQ. 5in coils, 2in body, f&r tube bars, sliders, 35's.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
Comp Truck - Sierra, ute chop, G16B, 6.5 xfer, exo cage, 34 JT II's, 3/4 eliptical rear, SPOA, 2in body.
I found a photo:
I'm using two Bosch electric water pumps. The engine driven pump has been completely removed. Sorry I don't have a part number, they are magnetically coupled so there's no shaft seal unlike Davies Crap pumps.
The fans are switched using a Jaycar temperature controlled switch kit. The pumps run constantly on Ignition on.
I have no temperature fluctuation now regardless of ambient temperature or use. This wasn't the case before I set up the rear mount and certainly wasn't hen I used a thermo with the stock radiator- It got hot.
Piping to the front of the car is a mix of generic radiator hose, exhaust tube (yes alloy would be nice but I can't weld it) and Suzuki swift radiator hoses and hard lines to turn everything around. The hard lines run outside the chassis under the floor of the cab.
It took some time to get the heater to work properly and my ISC is still a bit out of whack. you'll have to move heater lines and throttle body feed lines if you remove the stock water pump as there will be no differential pressure therefore no flow though the stock locations. If you retain the stock water pump though heater/ ISC etc should still function fine.
Steve.
I'm using two Bosch electric water pumps. The engine driven pump has been completely removed. Sorry I don't have a part number, they are magnetically coupled so there's no shaft seal unlike Davies Crap pumps.
The fans are switched using a Jaycar temperature controlled switch kit. The pumps run constantly on Ignition on.
I have no temperature fluctuation now regardless of ambient temperature or use. This wasn't the case before I set up the rear mount and certainly wasn't hen I used a thermo with the stock radiator- It got hot.
Piping to the front of the car is a mix of generic radiator hose, exhaust tube (yes alloy would be nice but I can't weld it) and Suzuki swift radiator hoses and hard lines to turn everything around. The hard lines run outside the chassis under the floor of the cab.
It took some time to get the heater to work properly and my ISC is still a bit out of whack. you'll have to move heater lines and throttle body feed lines if you remove the stock water pump as there will be no differential pressure therefore no flow though the stock locations. If you retain the stock water pump though heater/ ISC etc should still function fine.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
The two pumps are in series - One is directly under the lower radiator outlet and the other is visible standing vertically. They push coolant towards the motor - this should give them the longest life as they work with the coolest liquid.
ISC= Idle speed control. On some cars it is controlled by the temperature of the coolant passing through the throttle body. It is on my car, and the coolant through it is rarely hot enough to bring the idle speed down to normal.
Steve.
ISC= Idle speed control. On some cars it is controlled by the temperature of the coolant passing through the throttle body. It is on my car, and the coolant through it is rarely hot enough to bring the idle speed down to normal.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
God Of Emo
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If set up properly it should run at the same temp as when the radiator was in the front of the car. Running at any other temp will be costing power and efficiency.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
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