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Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
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I have a V8 chevy diesel 6.5L in my cruiser, on my way home yesty it boiled, possibly was hot for less than 5 min, it never lost any power i pulled over and refilled the radiator, the poofter is spitting water out at a rate of about 1 Litre per 100km, im getting this looked at.
Thismorning it started ok, went down the street, it sat for about an hr and i went to start it and the starter threw in and it just clicked like there was hydraulic lock or seized.
A few clicks later it started with no apparent probs, would this be cause of the boil yesty or would my starter be on its way out..
Thismorning it started ok, went down the street, it sat for about an hr and i went to start it and the starter threw in and it just clicked like there was hydraulic lock or seized.
A few clicks later it started with no apparent probs, would this be cause of the boil yesty or would my starter be on its way out..
Get out there!!
9 times out of ten if you cook a 6.5 you will at least crack a head mine was leaking water into the cylinder when it sat and made it hard to start altough this may not be what is wrong with yours...
blowing back through the radiator is bad I would say atleast you have done a head gasket........
blowing back through the radiator is bad I would say atleast you have done a head gasket........
WEIPA RACQ MECHANICAL AUTO ELECTRICAL PARTS
75 series 6.5 V8 diesel locked & lifted
79 series turbo diesel chipped almost locked and lifted
http://www.exploroz.com/Directory/Customer/1138.asp
75 series 6.5 V8 diesel locked & lifted
79 series turbo diesel chipped almost locked and lifted
http://www.exploroz.com/Directory/Customer/1138.asp
just at a guess, head or headgasket or perhaps small crack in bore, it was probably on the way out before you cooked it, it just gets worse as either the crack or gasket age, which has lead to the overheating due to the use of more water, and as for the starter when you went down the street and no doubt engine warm either the crack or headgasket opens up allowing water into the cylinder giving momentary lockup after the engine is left sitting water leaks in etc, ussually after a couple of clicks it may start but ussually the problem doesnt get better
PS i hope im wrong, might be
a blocked radiator
PS i hope im wrong, might be
a blocked radiator
Well, i hope i havent done any damage too!!brighty wrote:Keep us updated as I got a 6.2 and always trying to get more info on these v8 deisel donks
Here is a TOP read i found, this bloke, Les Addison is a bloody champion he's like a chevy manual in a mans body
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=23850
Get out there!!
The chevy 6.2 and 6.5 diesel are notorious for the head cracking into water passages.
The long established fix is to ream out the water passage and install a sleeve that seals the crack from the water passage. The bore of the sleeve still allows water flow. The crack remains in the head but doesn't create a problem once it sealed off from the water passage.
There is a lot of information about this on USA chev diesel sites.
They use valve guides to sleeve the water passage, but something else could be made to do the same job if the particular valve guides are difficult to find locally.
They have a problem with cooling toward the rear of the heads. I can't remember if this is what causes the above mentioned cracks, or if it leads to some other issue. It is believed that steam vapour forms because of poor water flow and resulting vapour pockets prevent proper cooling.
GM fixed this in the late engines by dramatically uprating the water flow rate. The high output water pump is driven by a serpentine belt and rotates in the opposite direction so can't be easily retrofitted to earlier engines. They also have a larger thermostat housing with 2 thermostats.
The long established fix is to ream out the water passage and install a sleeve that seals the crack from the water passage. The bore of the sleeve still allows water flow. The crack remains in the head but doesn't create a problem once it sealed off from the water passage.
There is a lot of information about this on USA chev diesel sites.
They use valve guides to sleeve the water passage, but something else could be made to do the same job if the particular valve guides are difficult to find locally.
They have a problem with cooling toward the rear of the heads. I can't remember if this is what causes the above mentioned cracks, or if it leads to some other issue. It is believed that steam vapour forms because of poor water flow and resulting vapour pockets prevent proper cooling.
GM fixed this in the late engines by dramatically uprating the water flow rate. The high output water pump is driven by a serpentine belt and rotates in the opposite direction so can't be easily retrofitted to earlier engines. They also have a larger thermostat housing with 2 thermostats.
John
Try a coke bottle test.
1:Warm engine up
2: pull off the little hose that runs from your radiator neck, below the cap, to your overflow bottle, at the overflow end
3: stick the free end of the overflow hose into a plastic bottle half filled with water, so the bottle is replacing your overflow tank.
4: run the engine. (with the rad cap on)
If there are bubbles coming from the hose inthe bottle you have a combustion gas leak into your cooling system, usually a head gasket or crack as mentioned earlier.
Good luck
Craig.
1:Warm engine up
2: pull off the little hose that runs from your radiator neck, below the cap, to your overflow bottle, at the overflow end
3: stick the free end of the overflow hose into a plastic bottle half filled with water, so the bottle is replacing your overflow tank.
4: run the engine. (with the rad cap on)
If there are bubbles coming from the hose inthe bottle you have a combustion gas leak into your cooling system, usually a head gasket or crack as mentioned earlier.
Good luck
Craig.
...........shedbound.............
Cheers craig, i should have updated the thread, i did that a wk ago, yep she blown head gasket or head alright.Cluffy wrote:Try a coke bottle test.
1:Warm engine up
2: pull off the little hose that runs from your radiator neck, below the cap, to your overflow bottle, at the overflow end
3: stick the free end of the overflow hose into a plastic bottle half filled with water, so the bottle is replacing your overflow tank.
4: run the engine. (with the rad cap on)
If there are bubbles coming from the hose inthe bottle you have a combustion gas leak into your cooling system, usually a head gasket or crack as mentioned earlier.
Good luck
Craig.
Its getting 2 new heads next week.
Thanks for your help blokes
Get out there!!
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